Transcript
no. 32
8 0 0 6 4 4 6 8 8 1 7 7 9
www.euromodelismo.com
BIMOnTHLY
6€
32 pag
We start a new series of Model Laboratory with a Sd.Kfz.171 We Sd.Kfz.171 Panther and the intention of offer you an exhaustive step by step of the realization of this model kit, from the building to the painting. Also you can find some profiles and a gallery with Panthers of several authors.
ACCION PRESS C/Ezequiel Solana, 16 bajo, 28017 Madrid, Spain www.euromodelismo.com/shop www .euromodelismo.com/shop •
[email protected]
HISTOREX AGENTS Wellington W ellington House, 157 Snargate Street, Dover, Dover, Kent CT17 9BZ www.historexagents.com www .historexagents.com
6€
32 pag
We start a new series of Model Laboratory with a Sd.Kfz.171 We Sd.Kfz.171 Panther and the intention of offer you an exhaustive step by step of the realization of this model kit, from the building to the painting. Also you can find some profiles and a gallery with Panthers of several authors.
ACCION PRESS C/Ezequiel Solana, 16 bajo, 28017 Madrid, Spain www.euromodelismo.com/shop www .euromodelismo.com/shop •
[email protected]
HISTOREX AGENTS Wellington W ellington House, 157 Snargate Street, Dover, Dover, Kent CT17 9BZ www.historexagents.com www .historexagents.com
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A.,a'%a) M13/40 We have here interesting piece of work on an Italian tank employed by Australian forces on northern Africa. It is accompanied by several color profiles were several camouflage versions are suggested.
Ka,' B,*((a)) A magnificent figure portraying commander Karl Bromman, the Untersturmführer of the 1. Kp. from the sch. SS-Pz.Abt. 503.
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T+! 95 HA-GO This is one of the small Japanese tanks destroyed in the battle of Iw o Jima. The painting techniques are simply excellent. Afterwards we’ll find a photographic review were we can see a number of real life details of the real vehicle.
K'!%)! Pa)2!,b!"!$'a#!) This armored command vehicle was used by the Germans in northern Africa and it stands out for the extreme wear of its paintjob and some very interesting effects. The review is capped off with a number of color profiles depicting different camouflage schemes for this vehicle.
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W%.$ a'' .$! +*!, +*!,
24 Diorama centered on the battle for Berlin. The stars of this diorama are a T-34/85 and several Soviet soldiers in action.
PTO SHERMAN M4A2 of the US M arines placed on the Pacific theater of operations. This is an example of building a kit out of the box without further complications.
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H*.c$&% H-39
34 The last units manufactured of this vehicle were sent to the front without camouflage, these units only had a layer of red priming paint. A singular kit in terms of quality and originality.
MODELLING LESSONS: Aa+.%)# !ca'
62 Demonstrating a simple method for adapting decals to a rugged surface.
By: Antonio Tomás Aguilera Cano Zvezda
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Pictures by the author
Color Profiles: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo 1/35
The logic evolution of the M11/39 was the “carro armato” (a middle weight vehicle 13 tons in 1940). The first prototypes were available on the first part of that year and soon mass production was secured from Fiat-Ansaldo. It was equipped with a turret armed with an M37 L/32 47mm gun (In the M11/39 the principal weapon was placed on the right side of the hull), and had a secondary group of Breda 38 8mm machine guns, one of them was co-axial with the main gun, another one on the roof of the turret and two on a global assembly located to the right of the driver’s seat.
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he protection offered by the armoring to the four crew men (40mm in the thickest parts) was not very good when compared to other vehicles of the era. This situation was worsened by the lack of resistance to tension of the planks and the assembly of this with bolts. The SPA 125 h/p diesel motor was not powerful enough for the vehicle’s weight and the air filters couldn’t prevent sand from getting to the motor, which finally harmed it. The bad reputation of the M series was largely due to the M13/40. Finally, the model M14/41 incorporated better filters and a better, more powerful motor. Nicknamed “motrorized coffins” by the Germans, we can say in defense of it, that originally these vehicles were designed to operate on the northern Italian mountain area were the “Regio Esercito” planned to fight as opposed to the radically different north African climate. These vehicles were captured in fair numbers by the forces commanded by General O’Connor during the operation “Compass” that took place between the latter part of 1940 and the beginning of 1941. The vehicles were given to the 6th British Royal Tank Regiment and the 6th Australian Cavalry Regiment. The squadrons of the latter one called “Dingo”, “Rabbit” and “Wombat, painted huge white kangaroos on the turret and the hull of the tanks to
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avoid being identified as enemy vehicles. These curious designs made the vehicles pretty attractive, and I tried to reproduce this in the kit reviewed.
A S S E M B L Y
We are dealing with a mold from an original decades old Italeri kit, manufactured and reissued by Zvezda a Russian brand in the mid 90’s. I basically grew as a hobbyist with the products manufactured by the Italian brand, so I cannot say anything bad
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about it and my comments will not be entirely objective. Even if I think that we are dealing with a basically good kit that can be assembled with almost no trouble, we can put our skills to the test by detailing and rebuilding some parts in order to obtain a reproduction closer to the original. If we want to get a vehicle of the first run like one of the captured tanks mentioned earlier, we should do a few changes to the kit. The most important ones are the following: 1- Get rid of the rectangular structure on the roof of the turret which allowed for a greater swoop when directing the gun down. 2- Substitute the motor grilles –with a transversal to the axis of the hull
design- for photo etched parts with a longitudinal design. 3- Eliminate the lateral rims of the rectangular piece on top of the water intake of the radiator on the rear part of the motor’s cover. Other than this we should etch with a scriber the union between the armored planks, because these are not featured. We will also have to rebuild the suspension arches which show excessive molding lines. The general detailing of this kit was secured with a photo etched set with a few Royal Model resin pieces, a Jordi
KITS USED Kit:
- M13/40 Italian Medium Tank, Zvezda ref. 3516, 1/35 scale. Photoetches:
- Italian Tank M13/40, Royal Model ref. 199. Gun:
- Italian 47mm Mod. 47/32, Jordi Rubio ref. TG-60. Tracks:
- Carro Armato M13/40 Tracks, Modelkasten ref. SK-43.
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Rubio aluminum gun and styrene tracks by Modelkasten which also include the tractor wheels molded in white metal and some wonderful sprockets used to improve the suspension. The pictures show these improvements.
P A I N T I N G
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I first took my airbrush kit and primed the entire kit with white paint and then I did a first statement in shadows using XF-61 on all nooks and crevices. The next step was to apply a highly diluted layer of XF-13, trying to direct the paint jet towards the edges of each armored plank so I could still see white in the center of each plank. Then I airbrushed on the center of the planks a mixture of XF-65 and XF-4, lighting it up with XF-15, and finished this with a maximum highlight with XF-65 and XF-57. Now I was ready to paint the kangaroos. I traced on adhesive paper the motifs found on the decal sheet and used it as a stencil; in order to avoid paint filtrations or an unnatural thickening of paint I airbrushed it (white paint) in real thin layers dirtied with a tinge of XF-4. All paint references mentioned are Tamiya acrylics thinned out with Gunze Sangyo’s Mr. Color Thinner. Once paint had dried well I applied a few hand brushed paint filters using green toned Humbrol enamels. This was useful to integrate the previous colors applied and the contrast created with the Kangaroos. A couple of hours later I created a few discreet paint chips with a thin brush; the superficial ones are made with Model Color acrylics 980 and 916 and the deeper ones have Panzer Aces 302. At this stage I varnished the kit using a 50% mixture of Gunze Sangyo’s gloss and matt varnish which served later on for enhancing the profiles of the kit. This I did with a mixture of Windsor and Newton oil paints 331 and 554 and these colors greatly bene-
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fitted from the varnish treatment, flowing much better and preventing the kit from getting a whole lot darker. After allowing a few hours of drying time, I created with Humbrol enamel 61 and oil paint 637 a few dry brush effects on the rivets and some edges lighting them all up from the dark color behind as previously left. Then I took oil paints 644, 646, 744, 637, 395 and 554 to add chromatic richness to the kit’s surface and recreate paint wear. I applied oil paint as usual: I soaked the necessary areas with turpentine and applied small oil paint pellets “melting” these with a brush soaked with turpentine as well. This process can be repeated until you are satisfied with the results. After a while (oil takes long to dry) I applied some dirt on the kit; I researched this on many pictures of the vehicle in action. First I took my airbrush kit and sprayed really diluted Humbrol enamel 72 on the areas that dirt usually accumulates. Before paint dried up I took my turpentine soaked brush and removed excess paint on the areas requiring it. When paint dried up I created a few nuances and effects but using a brush and Humbrol 72, a mixture of oil paints 644 and 744 and when these dried up I applied Mig Productions’ powdered color pigments P027 and P028. Later on I increased the dirt effect on some areas using Panzer Aces acrylic 310 and Model Color acrylics 927, 917 and 977 all well diluted in water mixing them together together directly on the surface of the kit. Then I applied dirt trails, grease and oil stains by mixing oil paint 80 and bitumen of Judaea and linseed oil. I used this oil to make sure that the results remained glossy glossy.. I finished the areas with greater wear signs such as the edges of the turret’s hatches and the hull’s, the portholes that cover the motor, etc., applying humid Tamiya pigment 87088 included in the Weathering Master D set.
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COLOR CHART TAMIYA (acrylics) TAMIYA XF-2 flat white XF-4 yellow green XF-13 J.N. green XF-15 flat flesh XF-52 flat earth XF-57 buff XF-61 dark green XF-65 field grey TAMIYA (wet pigments) TAMIYA pigments) 87088 oil stain GUNZE SANGYO (acrylics) H-20 flat clear H-30 clear HUMBROL (enamels) 61 matt flesh 72 matt khaki drill 76 matt uniform green 120 matt light green PANZER ACES (acrylics) 301 light rust 302 dark rust 303 yellowish rust 310 old wood
A?0= B0’0 ;;0/ >?9 =9> ?: ?0 ?, B0 /: >:80 /0? ;=:92 :9 ? 0 ? @>92 8C?@=0 : : ;9?> 554 9/ 331 ?990/ :@? B? ?@=;09?90.
MODEL COLOR (acrylics) 890 reflective freen 916 sand yellow 917 beige 927 dark flesh 977 desert yellow WINSOR & NEWTON NEWTON (oils) 331 ivory black 395 Mars violet deep 554 raw umber 637 terre verte 644 titanium white 646 trans. gold ochre 744 yellow ochre TITAN (oils) 80 bitumen MIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments) P027 light dust P028 Europe dust
E/20> 9/ =0?> =0 2?0/ @; -D /=D -=@>92 0980 618C0/ B? : ;9? 637.
TITAN (asphalt) (asphalt) Asphalt 7
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
- PIGNATO, Nicola. “Italian Medium Tanks in action”, in Armor Series No. 39, Squadron/Signal Publications, Carrollton, Texas, 2001. - VV.AA. Los más extraordinarios carros de combate, Ediciones Altaya, Barcelona, 2005.
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13/40, I' B??7: C==, &;7, G=, J@= 1941.
13/40, 'II B??7: C==, D>: C:=? A=?, L-, F-=@= 1941.
13/40, ) B??7: C==, D>: C:=? L??:=:, E7 A78, J@7 1942.
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13/40, I B??7: C==, D>: C:=? A=?, E7 A78, "?:-= 1942.
14/41, D>: C:=? C?@=:, K>>= ;>>, F-=@= 1943.
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By: Javier Redondo Jiménez Fine Molds
Pictures by the author 1/35
Once the US had conquered the Marianas archipelago, this was used as a platform for sending bombardiers to Japanese territory. However the distance between these islands and Japan was still considerable and that meant that the B-29’s couldn’t possibly be escorted and that in turn translated into very heavy losses. 14
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he eyes of American strategists were then set upon a small island some 660 miles (1200km) to the south of Tokyo, which would mean to the B-29’s about three hours of flight. The island was called Iwo Jima (Brimstone Island) and was a part of metropolitan Japan. It measured a little over 8km long and had a width of about 4.5km in its northern area, having a total surface of no more than 20 square kilometers. On the base of the
island stood Mount Suribachi a sleeping volcano about 168m high were you could master almost all the island. It had two airfields (Motoyama 1 and 2) and a third one which was in progress. The terrain was a mixture of gorges, valleys, rocks and hills. Throughout the island there were sulphurous emanations coming from cracks on the surface. The poor soil only allowed the growth of crude plants and small trees and there was no drinking water.
General Tadamichi Kuribayashi was in charge of defending this island and he did a good job by taking maximum advantage of the island’s qualities including its volcanic ashes that were thrown into the concrete making the island into some sort of a Maginot line, turning it into a labyrinth of subterranean tunnels, chambers, casemates and command stations which were filled with guns and machine guns. He had highly motivated troops that
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accepted death and wanted to inflict as many American casualties as possible. On February 19th 1945 the invasion began in Futatsune beach. The duration for this operation was planned and estimated for five days, but the star spangled banner didn’t float on top of the island until March the 26th. The price paid was the highest for the entire Pacific campaign: 6,766 US soldiers killed and almost 20,000 wounded. Among the Japanese units in charge of the defense there was the 26th Armored Regiment commanded by
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Colonel Takeichi Nishi, a famous jockey who had won a gold medal in the LA Olympics of 1932. The unit at his command had 23 tanks: twelve Type 95 and eleven Type 97. The 1st armored unit first saw combat on February the 20th, fighting until its total annihilation on March the 1st in hill number 382. On the 25th of that month the 3rd company was sent to the Motoyama Number 2 to defend it against the US marines fighting fiercely until it fell on the 27th. In the morning of February the 28th the remaining
KITS USED Kit:
- Type 95 “Ha-Go”, Fine Molds ref. FM16, 1/35 scale. P(/4/%4#(%$: - Type 95 “Ha-Go”, Fine Molds ref. MG28. G5: - Type 95 “Ha-Go”, Fine Molds ref. MG06. T2!#+3: - Type 95 Light Tank, Modelkasten ref. SK-50.
A 4% 6%#%’3 !2%!3 7# 34#+ /54 !6% "%% '6% 25349 0!4 #03 7# #2%!3% 4% 7%!2 3%3!4/.
armored vehicles from the 2nd company had been hiding in caves and attacked the 21st Marine Regiment which was initially surprised but eventually destroyed the tanks using bazookas. For the Japanese, the fall of Iwo Jima was an insurmountable tragedy. It was a piece of national territory that fell to the price of 21,000 lives. Only a little over 200 prisoners were made. Kuribayashi’s body was never found, and he only delayed the inevitable, making the island only fit for the devil.
I ! 4//3 !$ 4/3% !2%!3 / 4% !2-/2' 02/% 4/ 7%!2, -%4! 7/2 4/ ! 0/3 !3 "%% #/6%9%$ 53' '2!04% (0%# %!$) !$ 3-5$'%$.
sten products is well known, but due to size, assembly was rather tedious. The Type 95 “Ha-Go” is a small In order to create the impact that styrene treasure with a few white metal destroyed the tank, I opened a hole with pieces manufactured by the Japanese a knife on the right side of the armoring. brand Fine Molds, and is therefore highly I also reduced the thickness of the wall recommendable. The same manufacturer using a Dremel driller tool with a small makes a photo etched sheet and a metal head piece attached. On the base of the gun to add further detail to the kit. How- tractor wheels and on the front part of ever the vinyl tracks are quite mediocre the hull I had to recreate some rivets that and had to be replaced by a Modelkas- the kit does not reproduce. The assemten plastic reference which includes trac- bly phase isn’t a big deal as you’ll judge tion wheels. The quality of the Modelka- by the pictures. THE KIT
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A&42 !)2"253()' "!3 #//2 !$ ! &7 ()'()'(43, #!-/5&!' 3/43 (! " (!$ !)4$ 53)' M/$ C//2 !#29)#3. I4 )3 #/)4 4/ 53 !)4 $)54$ / 60% 7!42 !$ !9 !4 !34 4(2 4() !923 7()#( $29 5 )--$)!49.
I painted the kit after consulting available research material and begun by covering it with base color “Kosoushoku”, some sort of green that came out of the factory with. I did by airbrushing a mixture of the following Tamiya acrylics XF-57, XF-55 and XF-49. Then I augmented the amount of the
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first two color references on the mixture to create a couple of highlights. After a couple of hours’ drying time I was ready to hand brush the remaining two camouflage colors. I employed for this Model Color acrylics applied in several thin layers. The first color “Soushoku” was a dark green color
which sometimes was also used as base color. I created it by mixing 894, 980 and 953. The second color was a dark brown known as “Tochishoku”; I used for this one 941 right out of the bottle. The emblem for the 26th Armored Regiment was a white disc with an upright blue arrow head. The armored
D)24 !$ -5$ (! " 2#2!4$ 7)4( /7$2$ #//2 )'-43 !)$ 7)4( ! "253( )4(2 $)54$ 7)4( !- 4()2 /2 $29.
vehicles of this regiment were lost to the sea when an American submarine sunk the cargo vessel that took these to Iwo Jima. As a consequence, this unit had to be reequipped with vehicles in store and therefore these didn’t have any such markings while fighting in the island. Once I had this emblem thing right I began to shade the kit using a highly diluted mixture of Tamiya’s XF-10 and XF-1. I applied this mixture with controlled air pressure in my airbrush kit and a firm hand. That is how I enhanced a few contours, crevices, etc. Then I applied a few Humbrol paint
filters and oil paint to get the ageing effect on the paintjob, by melting different color shades on the kit’s surface. I used oils 623, 227, 105, 411 and 409. I had to insist on oil 409 to enhance a few details.When my oils had dried up I created a number of superficial paint chips using a lighter version of my “Kosoushoku” base color. Then I did deeper ones using Model Color acrylics 985 and 950 distributing these throughout the vehicle in a rational and orderly fashion. I complemented this by applying a “metal worn to a polish effect” using graphite (pencil lead) and smudging it.
I concluded by doing a few grease stains using oil paint 80, Marabu gloss varnish and thinner. I also applied several Mig powdered color pigments either dry or in washes created with the pigments and thinner in order to obtain different effects.
BIBLIOGRAPHY - MOSZCZANSKI, Ilja, “Typ 95 Ha Go”, in Militaria No. 185, Wydawnictwo Militaria, Warsaw, 2003.
COLOR CHART TAMIYA (acrylics) XF-1 flat black XF-10 flat brown XF-49 khaki XF-55 deck tan XF-57 buff MODEL COLOR (acrylics) 894 Russian green 941 burnt umber 950 black 953 flat yellow 980 black green 985 hull red HUMBROL (enamels) 72 matt khaki drill 93 matt desert yellow VAN GOGH (oils) 105 titanium white 227 yellow ochre 409 burnt umber 411 burnt Sienna 623 sap green TITAN (oils) 80 asphalt MIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments) P027 light dust P030 beach sand P033 dark mud P037 Gulf War sand MARABU (varnish) 1106 gloss varnish 19
Pictures: Octavio Díez Cámara
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under siege. The fights are cruelly intensified. On April the 30th Soviet troops finally reach the “unreachable” downtown area; Hitler commits suicide on his bunker instead of surrendering to the enemy forces. The Soviets take the Reichstag on May the 1st and Berlin succumbs the following day. On May 8th Germany surrenders to the allied troops. The conquest of Berlin meant heavy human losses to both contenders and heavy material losses as well. 45.000 German losses were counted between the military and the civil population, and the Russians had around 155.000 losses and 250.000 wounded or sick.
T H E
S C E N E
The idea for the diorama was basically to show a fierce Soviet advance on a downtown street in Berlin. I had to use a typical Russian tank of the period and a few infantry men spread throughout. All of this had to be placed on a devastated, bombarded and heavily fought on scene with traces of fleeing Germans.
T - 3 4 / 8 5
he combats are quite bloody, and take place both day and night block by block and room by room. Bombings are frequent and heavy. Several plans to evacuate the population are handed forth, but the Führer rejects them all. The town is full of trenches, ditches and machine gun posts and all sorts of artillery antitank obstacles, etc. German forces diminish every day and the civil population too. The anti-communist fanatic attitude will help reject every Soviet offer. On the 24th of that same month, the town is completely surrounded and
T T
The T-34/85 1944 model Dragon kit is easily assembled right out of the box and does not need improvements or modifications. I airbrushed Tamiya’s XF-27. Once paint dried up I applied decals using the Micro Set and Micro Sol products which are very necessary to fully adapt these to the well reproduced rugged metal surface. Then I painted the horizontal white band around the tank using a white pencil. After I airbrushed a thin layer of gloss varnish (Gunze Sangyo) throughout the kit I began ageing the kit with some dirt and mud. I first painted a few chips using a mixture of Model Color’s 985 and 950. Then I applied three color filters using a three filter set (allies) manufactured by The Filter. I also applied a few Mig powdered color pigments (P028 and P037) insisting on dirt prone areas such as the wheels, tracks and fenders.
KITS USED Kit:
- T-34/85 Mod. 1944, Dragon ref. 6319, 1/35 scale. F0.<9,: - Soviet Motor Rifle Troops 1943-45 No. 1, Tank Models ref. T35009. - Soviet Motor Rifle Troops 1943-45 No. 2, Tank Models ref. T35010. - Soviet Motor Rifle Troops 1943-45 No. 3, Tank Models ref. T35011. - Soviet Motor Rifle Troops 1943-45 No. 4, Tank Models ref. T35012. - Soldier Running and Shouting, Hornet ref. RH07. - Hands, Hornet refs. 01,02 & 03. A**,690,: - MG Ammo Boxes, Tank Models ref. A-56. - MG 34 Set, Tank Models ref. A-11. - German Helmets, Tank Models ref. A-39. - WW II Newspapers, Posters, etc. Verlinden Productions ref. 12. - German Military Roadsigns, Verlinden Productions ref. 18. - German Comercial Signs, Verlinden Productions ref. 24. - 88mm Shells & Cartridge Cases, Verlinden Productions ref. 1101. - 88mm Ammo Crates, Verlinden Productions ref. 1102. B<03+05.: - City House Corner, Verlinden Productions ref. 1385. - Cobblestone Section, Verlinden Productions ref. 2250. - Bricks & Cobbles, Verlinden Productions ref. 2275. - Tiles, Royal Model ref. 296. - Building Accesories, MiniArt ref. 35005.
Before doing the final effects I mat varnished the kit airbrushing Marabu mat varnish. I let the varnish dry for about four to six hours and then proceeded to recreate the metal polished areas around the edges of the hatches, tool boxes, etc. using Mig pigment P231 applied with my finger on the edges. I conveyed some fuel stains on the auxiliary fuel tanks using Mig product “Satin grease and oil”.
25
$ $-34/85, (0;+ 'F-27 (: ) ;9(;+ >0; (0; 0;9: 6 +09; :(+:. D09; (: ) *9(;+ >0; M0 !96+<*;06: *669 0;:, >0* (9 (:0@ (+ :+0@ (0+.
$ ;9(*: (= +09; )96> (:; :(+:. $ 0+ )(+ >(: (+ <:0 ( >0; *669+ *0.
I added as a final touch, the arm of a tank driver holding the hatch from the inside. F I G U R E S
All figures are manufactured by Tank Models except the one that’s running which is a Hornet reference. The armored vehicle must be assembled before assembling the pieces that will ultimately become the soldiers in order to avoid fitting mistakes between the
B(:, *3 - (33 <-4: >(: M+,3 C3 988 4?,+ >;/ 950 (+ 967. $/, (4<; - ,(*/ *3 =(,+ ,(*/ -<, ; */(, *3 /<,: ( 3;;3,.
arms and shoulders which is not as easy as it seems. I changed many figures’ hands for Hornet references improving thus the realistic effects of holding weapons and handles. After placing equipment and other stuff on the figures I painted them all using Model Color Acrylics. It’s very important to create different shades of the uniform colors and the knapsacks on the figures to add chromatic variety to the scene. I painted each figure individually in order to vary slightly the mixtures used as opposed to painting them together. I began painting the figures on top of
the tank, which was glued in place immediately and then painted the remainder and placed them on the scene as soon as the ground was done. I looked for dynamic figures which would transmit movement and tension.
T H E
S C E N E
The ruined building is manufactured by Verlinden Productions and is made of plaster. I had to cut one of the walls on the corner in order to fit it bet-
A+(; ;/, :, - ;/, -<,: ; ;/, =,/*3, >(: ( *43*(;,+ (--(. $/, /(+: ,,+,+ ; ), */(,+ (+ :,=,(3 (+1<:;4,;: /(+ ; ), ,-4,+ ),;>,, 34): (+ ;::.
COLOR CHART TAMIYA (acrylics) XF-1 flat black XF-27 black green XF-57 buff GUNZE SANGYO (acrylics) H-11 flat white H-30 clear flat H-85 sail color H-401 dark grey H-403 dark yellow MODEL COLOR (acrylics) 877 gold brown 912 tan yellow 941 burnt umber 950 black 951 white 967 olive green 985 hull red 988 khaki
$/ *3 ;/ <-: : :3( )<; ;/ ( ; ;> (;: (3.
ANDREA COLOR (acrylics) AC-15 ochre THE FILTER (enamels) P247 allied filter set MIG PRODUCTIONS (enamels) P410 oil and grease stain mixture MIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments) P028 Europe dust P037 Gulf War sand P231 gun metal MARABU (varnish) 1108 matt varnish
28
ter on the scene. I painted it alternating both brush and airbrush. I used yellowish, cream and grey acrylic colors by both Tamiya and Gunze Sangyo. I aged the building using a filter set and powdered color pigments made by Mig Productions which I mentioned earlier. Once finished I glued the building to the base which was a piece of artificial cork cut to measure.
I =@ *(: I <:+ 988 (+ 912 - //3/;:, (+ 950 >;/ 941 - :/(+>:.
Before I placed the debris I glued the street tiles manufactured by Verlinden Productions. The area covered with debris and the area where it is right by the ruined walls was created using a mixture of white glue, water and tissue paper. I created the mass of debris using Royal Model roof tiles, absorbent sand used for pets, thin wooden rods, Verlinden bricks and
#;3 /3;: ( (;+ <: ( ?;< - 967 (+ 950. M;(3 (;: ;/ >(: /(= ) (;+ 950.
floor tiles and some remains of the plaster building. All was glued in place using white glue. Once it was all dry I painted this using the same colors used on the building; I also painted the floor tiles using browns and grays. Then I saturated all surfaces using Mig pigments which were also swept in some areas to vary the texture.
A33 -<: /(= ) +;+ <: ;/ :(4 74;: 4736@+ 6 ;/ =/*3 (+ ;/ +):.
B@ (<4; 6 +4:/ ;/ (46<; 6- 6 6- ;/ ;/ *636: <:+ 6 ;/ <-64: (+ ;/ <74; 7*: :<776:+3@ 4(+ 6- *(=(:, ;/ /< *( */( :-*(;3@.
$/: ?*33; >/; 4;(3 -< /(: ) 4(<-(*;<+ )@ H6;.
L(;/ 4734;: /(= ) 7(;+ >;/ 985 (+ 950. M;(3 :/ 6 ;/ < :/(-;: (+ )<33; 36(+: /(: ) +6 >;/ :3/; 7*3 4(2:.
A33 +;(3: /(= ) *(-<33@ /(*+ >;/ 950.
$(2 M6+3:’ -<: /(= (;<(3 (+ +@(4* 76::, ( 4(+ 6<; 6- : (+ ( >33 463++.
29
$/ /=@ :/++ : (6> ; 6 ;/ : 6 :;*) /= 6:; < 950. $/ * *66+ /< 6 :6 *2;: /: *;+ >;/ AC-15.
I capped it all off with a few fuel spills on the ground, a MiniArt street light, shells, ammo boxes, wire, bottles, pipes, an MG 34, helmets, some papers, kitchen utensils, traffic signals, etc. All these add a realistic feel to the scene. Once I glued the vehicle in place I dirtied the figures using brown pigments.
$/ <+ /: ;+ >;/ +; ?;<: *6; H-403, 'F-57 + H-85. I =@ ?;< I *<++ > +6: 6 'F-1.
$/ +6+ MG + <;6 6?:, ;/ :/: + 66+ :, =+* ;/; >6<++ G :/:/66; :;@+ ;/: 6; <; /+ ;6 +6 ;/ ::.
30
$/, 3669 ;3,: /(=, ),,5 7(5;,+ >;/ G<5A, #(5@6’: H-401 (5+ ( 5<),9 6 )96>5 ;65,:. D9; /(: ),,5 +65, <:5 7,5; >(:/,: +3<;,+ >;/ ,5(,3 ;/55,9.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
- ZALOGA, Steven J and VOLSTAD, Ron. “El Ejército Rojo en la Gran Guerra Patriótica”, in Carros de Combate No. 71, Osprey Military/RBA, Barcelona, 2001. - CANO MUÑOZ, Gustavo. “Frontovik”, in Eurouniformes No. 9 (febrero-marzo 2002), Acción Press, Madrid, pp. 2-12.
31
$/ B73:/;-73;2/C 69 905 *362 0: 9633+ <7 5+ >695 5+6309 :;@3 6=9 ;/ 3; :/6<3+9, *<: >765: 9 <:<33@ 35+ 05:; ;/ 90/; :/6<3+9 >/5 :/66;05. $/ B:/96=90C >9 25 /0/ 9*/:. $/: >9 + >0;/ +065+ :/7+ 7;*/: 65 ;/ 25:.
$/0: "KKA *7693 /: B7036;2C (*7) 5+ 0: 3:6 >905 65 /0: B05:;0692C (:/09;) ;/ 05:050 6 /0: <9+ <50;:. $/ <50;065 *65;059 69 /0: !!#H-41 >765, 767<393@ 256>5 : B77:/C 0: + 6 *36;/ 5+ 0: /3+ ;6 ;/ 0<9’: 3; >0;/ <*23. $/ 0<9’: 365 66;: 9 + 6 3*2 +@+ 3;/9.
Pictures by the author
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1/35
I 1933 4% F2%# A2 2%2%$ ! '47%'4 !22%$ 6%#% 4 !##0! 4 &!42 420. B4 4% H4#+ &2 !$ R%!4 04 &27!2$ !2 02*%#4, "4 &! 4% R%!4 02440% (R-35) 7! #%.
H H
34
owever the chivalry units found the Hotchkiss project interesting enough, so eventually this vehicle was chosen for the “Divisions Cuirassées” and branded as “Char léger” “Hotchkiss modèle H-35”. The hull of this vehicle was smolten in six separate pieces: motor cover, combat compartment, front part of the hull and two longitudinal sections to right and left forming the lower area with a total weight of 11.370 kg. The
turret was an APX-R made of smelt steel about 40mm thick, identical to the turrets mounted in the Renault R-35 and R-40, armed with a 5A-18 L/21 37mm gun and a coaxial “Chatellerault M6 modèle 31” 7,5mm machine gun. The H-35 was equipped with a Hotchkiss 1934 six cylinder 78hp gasoline motor that reached a maximum speed of 28km/hour which theoretically was better than the Renault R-35 at 20km/hour, but the superior design
of its gear box actually made this a faster model. The French chivalry wanted a better speed rate, so a version with a more powerful motor was built. The result was a prototype with a Hotchkiss 1938 120hp motor and a modified hull to fit it in. Total weight for this vehicle mounted up to 12.100kg. Now speed grew to 36,5km/h. That’s how the “Char léger modèle 1935 H modifié 39” was born. Model H-35 had to be substituted, so
an initial run of 900 units was commanded. The name created some confusion and both vehicles ended up being named H-35. Later on this model was referred to as H-38 or H-39. In 1940 these vehicles were updated: new periscopes were installed and a long 5A 38 L/35 37mm gun was also adopted. This updating only affected 350 units. Starting on April of that year units with the new gun were already coming out of the factory. When the war began, France had a total of 640 Hotchkiss vehicles. The T% ' !3 "%% %!#%$ "9 ! !34# 4"% / 4% '4 3:%. I’6% !$$%$ ! !4%! "!3% / 4% //, ! %7 6%43 !$ ! %7 $/-%.
I /$% 4/ #/6%9 4% 4%3/ $%6#%3, / 4% "!3% / %!# %! 7%% I !6% !#%$ ! !34# $3+ !$ ! !34# 3#%7 "/4 -!$% 74 ! /% #% (P# & D%). T% 4!#+ #/6%3 !6% "%% $3/3%$ /, '' 34%!$ ! E6%'%% 34 (0,25-- 4#+).
Germans captured 550 units that were later on revamped as PzKpfw. 35H 734(f) or PzKpfw 38H 735(f) in its armored vehicle configuration, or modified as small self propelled guns.
A S S E M B L Y
The asiatic brand Trumpeter offers the German version of this armored vehicle with rocket launchers on both sides, but also includes the long gun version that I needed for this job. The kit is not exactly up to the standards of other kits that the brand has released in terms of quality and this is quite discouraging. But on the other side the kit sells for a very fair price, which is something to thank for on an otherwise expensive hobby. This kit is therefore perfect to “mutilate” unhindered.
T% !-/' / 4% %8!34 / 4% 3$% / 4% !3 "%% %#/34#4%$ 74 ! 349%% 3%%4. T% %8!34 3 *34 ! E6%'%% /$.
35
COLOR CHART TAMIYA (acrylics) X-6 orange XF-1 flat black XF-3 flat yellow XF-9 hull red XF-12 J.N. grey XF-50 field blue XF-63 German grey XF-64 red brown MODEL AIR (acrylics) 59 matt varnish THE FILTER (enamels) P242 tan HUMBROL (enamels) 29 matt dark earth 502 ABTEILUNG (oils) 1 snow white 20 faded dark yellow 25 brick red color 35 buff color 70 dark rust 100 faded grey
T% 7%,$' 20 % ,7%2 0!2 & % 522% ! "%% 2%#2%!%$ 7 % 0 & ! -!# +&% #%#%$ ! !,, %,%#2# 7%,$' !#%. (%% P!:%2 A#%/A22 M$%, 5% N 11).
TITAN (oils) 80 asphalt MIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments) P027 light dust P033 dark mud P037 Gulf War sand
36
I carefully followed the instruction sheet assembly sequence, but I soon found out that if I’d put the bogies in the assigned place I would definitely run the risk of getting a misaligned axis. In order to avoid this I had to sand the unions until I got the right position for all pieces. When I glued the bulbous pieces that conform the base of the tractor wheels, in the front part of the frame I had to convey the smolten effect on the steel planks by using putty on the joints and sanding the surface even. I soon found out that the tractor wheels would also be off centered if I followed the manufacturer’s instructions, so I forgot the instruction sheet
T% %2!,, ! 25 02' ,+ ! "%% #%%$ 7 T!!’ F-9 %$ $7 7 F-3. D&&%2% 5!#% !% "%% #2%!%$ 7 T!!’ F-64 !$ -6.
and centered these minding the transmission. I also had to use some putty and sandpaper on the front part of the frame to unify the surfaces and later on I took a scribber and clearly marked the welding lines between the smolten pieces. On the rear I also used this tool to create the joint line between the com-
bat chamber and the motor compartment. I replaced the two sheet hatch (a typical German modification) for a standard French dome from an old Renault R-35 manufactured by Heller. It is a startling coincidence that this piece fits perfectly on the Trumpeter kit’s turret.
I finally I chose to dispose of the pathetic vynil tracks (too rigid and long) and replaced them with an excellent Friulmodel reference molded on soft metal and composed of individual links. P A I N T I N G
I began the process by airbrushing some priming paint (Tamiya’s XF-12) in several thin layers. Then I customized the vehicle using as a reference a Trackstory monograph (n.5 “Juin 40 l’impossible sursaut”) which offers in page 57 a wonderful profile and a color picture of a very particular H-39. The last H-39’s left the assembly plants with some secondary implements uninstalled and sporting a “red priming” paint. This is therefore a very interesting subject to reproduce reminding me heavily of the “Stalingrad sty-
le”, however we should bear in mind that the T-34/76 STZ without paint seem to be just a myth while these H39’s were real and there’s photographic proof of it. I began by covering the kit using a mixture of Tamiya’s XF-9 and XF-3 (90/10%). Then I applied different color tones on different areas using first a mixture of XF-9 with a little XF64 and then added X-6 to this mixture. Then I created a few basic shadows using well diluted XF-1. I always used my airbrush kit on the process. Then I reproduced the manufacturing numerals on the vehicle. I used a Verlinden transfer sheet with numerals on different sizes and then protected these with a thin airbrushed mat varnish layer. Then I applied a few well diluted filters using Humbrol enamel 29 diluted on the manufacturers own thinner and The Filter’s P242 applied right out of the can.
After it had all properly dried up I further altered the base color by “melting” a few oil paint references: 1, 20, 25, 35, 70 and 100 all 502 Abteilung references. The areas of the vehicle that were not primed (wheels and sights for instance) were painted with a mixture of XF-63 and XF-50. Once paint was dry I rubbed these parts with graphite powder (pencil lead) using my finger, I masked the turret because I did not want a metal effect there. I finished the job by recreating mud and dirt using Mig Productions’ pigments P027, P033 and P037. I also applied in different quantities the ubiquitous Titan oil reference 80 used to recreate grease. I created a simple and small ground piece to place my armored vehicle including in it the turret of a Panzer I that was left from an earlier project. (see Panzer Aces/Armor Models N 16).
S%2)!, 5-"%23 !2% $29 42!3&%23 02/4%#4%$ ,!4%2 / 7)4( ! ,!9%2 /& -!4 6!2)3(.
37
T(% 342%'4( /& 4(% 02)-)' (!3 "%% 4/%$ $/7 53)' "2/7 #/,/2%$ %!-%, &),4%23 !00,)%$ 7)4( ! "253(.
38
D)24 !$ -5$ (!6% "%% 2%#2%!4%$ 53)' M)' P2/$5#4)/3’ 0/7$%2%$ 0)'-%43. I &))3(%$ 4(% */" "9 !00,9)' /), !$ '2%!3% 34!)3 -!$% 7)4( 4(% 535!, 4 %#()15%.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
- DANJOU, Pascal, “Juin 40, l´impossible sursaut”, in Trackstory No. 5, Editions du Barbotin, Ballainvilliers, France, 2006. - DANJOU, Pascal, “Chars Hotchkiss, H35, H39”, in Trackstory No. 6, Editions du Barbotin, Ballainvilliers, France, 2007. - BINGHAM, James, "Chars Hotchkiss, H35, H39 and Somua S35" in AFV Weapons No. 36. Profile Publications Ltd. Berkshire, U.K., 1971.
M%!, )%#%3 7)(/ 2))' !) (!% "%% !)%$ 7)( ! )82% /& F-64 !$ F-50. T(%3% (!% !,3/ "%% 2%!%$ 3)' '2!()% /7$%2 !,)%$ 7)( "!2% &)'%23.
P/,)3(%$ %!, / (% 2!#+ 3%#)/3 (!3 "%% !$% "9 3!$)' $29 !) ), 7% #! 3%% (% 3/& %!, $%2%!(.
39
By: José Manuel Flores Pérez
Picture credits: Jordi Escarré González Alpine
1/35
On October the 19th 1944, the sch. SS-Pz. Abt. 103 received its first four Tiger II. On the following month, the battalion was renamed as sch. SS-Pz. Abt. 503, and between December of that year and January 1945 it was finally equipped with 35 additional units reaching a total amount of 39 Tiger Ausf. B.
O O 40
n October the 19th 1944, the sch. SS-Pz. Abt. 103 received its first four Tiger II. On the following month, the battalion was renamed as sch. SS-Pz. Abt. 503, and between December of that year and
January 1945 it was finally equipped with 35 additional units reaching a total amount of 39 Tiger Ausf. B. On January the 25th the unit was transferred to the Oriental Front, where it saw bloody fighting on the area of
The front right corner of the hull of this Tiger II is a resin copy. The handle of the hatch is made of copper wire and the protection of the periscope is a Plasticard strip. The clasp for the axe is made with three Aber photo etched pieces.
KITS USED Figure: - Late War Waffen-SS Panzer NCO 1, Alpine Miniatures ref. 35045 1/35 scale. P&#!: - German (WWII) clamps and clasps. Aber ref. 35A20. A!!#00/'#0: - Sd.Kfz. 182 King Tiger Henschel Turret. Dragon ref. 6208.
Neu Stettin that saw the escape of the refugees coming from the east of Prussia. Throughout the night from February the 17th to the 18th 1945, the sch. SSPz.Abt. 503 were transported on the railway to Danzig. During the combats that took place in this city (between the districts of Oliwa and Wrzesszcz) and Sopot, the SS-Untersturmführer Karl Brommann Commander of the 1st Company destroyed 65 tanks and mobile guns (including a few T-34 from the 1st Polish Armored Brigade), 44 artillery pieces and 15 transport vehicles. Because of this, Brommann was awarded with the Knight’s Cross.
and rubbed it against the clothes (insisting in some areas and neglecting others) to create the natural satin gloss of leather. This is a much better system than using gloss varnish, because you’ll get a fake looking shine. Afterwards I shaded using highly diluted 950. I painted the 43 type cap using a mixture of 950 and 988; I used greater amounts of the last color for the highlights and water diluted 950 for the shades. The skull in the front and the eagle were done with 883, and then this was lighted up with 951. I also used 883 to paint the small officer’s rope around the upper rim of the cap. The front buttons (2) I painted with Gunze Sangyo’s 213. The bandage (988) was highlighted with 951 in several applications and then I dirtied it with 962 to simulate blood. The belt, holster and boots were painted with 984 mixed with a little 950. I added greater amounts of the
F I G U R E
This is an excellent resin figure up to the usual standards of Alpine Miniatures. It has very fine details and an overall high quality level. He is dressed in leather clothes and has a bandage on his head, something that matches the pictures of the real life “Tiger ace” Karl Bromman, I only had to modify the shoulder pieces to portray the SSUstuf rank (NCO) and put a cigarette on his left hand. I used Model Color acrylics. For the flesh tones I began with 876 as my base color, and kept adding 815 for the highlights. Then I added 814 highly diluted in water for the shadows. Then I took care of the leather clothes with a mixture of 950, 872 and 841 which I lighted up by increasing the amount of the last two colors for the highlights. I T 0&"#/ -'#!#0 &a# ##+ -a'+#" 883, a+" -'+ $$'!#/’0 /-# + used some 856 for the final highlights !a- (*'/# $ 926 a+" 951) #+%0 and for creating a few worn areas. I a/*/#" /-0. used a brush soaked with just water
first color for the highlights and ultimately added 856 which was finally used “plain” to do a few scratches. I took care of the shadows using 950 highly diluted in water. I finished the figure with a light staining of the lower areas, the back of his pants and the elbows on the jacket using pastel earth tones. BACKGROUND
I decided to place the star figure in his Tiger II, or rather a piece of it cut to measure with a small saw and glued on a 4x4cm base. I already had a styrene Dragon kit for the purpose. I was not exactly ecstatic about bashing this high quality kit, so I kindly asked the favor to my friends in M4 Models of reproducing a corner of it in resin. I have not much to add about the painting of the portion of the vehicle because I basically followed the standard procedures reviewed elsewhere in previous issues of this magazine.
41
COLOR CHART
BIBLIOGRAPHY - SCHNEIDER, Wolfgang. Tigers in combat II, J.J. Fedorowicz Publishing Inc., Manitoba, Canada, 1998. - BITOH, Mitsuru. “Panzerkampfwagen Tiger”, en Achtung Panzer No. 6, Dai Nippon Caiga Co., Japan, 1999. - TERUI, Yoshihiro & B.S.K. Uniforms of the SS 19381945, Dai Nippon Kaiga Co., Japan, 1998. - BUFFETAUT, Yves. “Normandie, juin 44 la Bataille de Caen, 1. La cote 112”, en Armes Militaria Hors Serie No. 58, Histoire & Collections, Paris, 2005.
MODEL COLOR (acrylics) 814 burnt cad. red 815 basic skintone 841 Andrea blue 856 ochre brown 872 chocolate brown 876 brown sand 883 silver grey 926 red 950 black 951 white 984 flat brown 988 khaki GUNZE SANGYO (acrylics) 213 stainless
T 0a'+ )( + )#a/ %a/*#+0 &a0 ##+ a'+#" /'+% a !)#a+ a#/ 0a(#" /0& + )#a/ 0/$a!#0.
O+ --#/ #"%# $ #) I’# !/#a#" a &'%&)'%& 0'+% 856, !()# &a0 ##+ -a'+#" '& G+# Sa+%’0 213.
42
T $'%/#’0 $'# ’!)!( 0&a" &a0 ##+ !/#a#" '& -a'+ #')0 + 876 a+" 841.
By: Mario Gabás Ruiz Dragon
Pictures by: Raúl Fernández Ruiz
Color Profiles: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo 1/35
The Kl. Pz. Bef. Wg. was a small armored command vehicle built on the frame of a Panzer I Ausf. B. It was originally designed for training purposes, but needs forced it into combat. It was first used on the Spanish Civil War where its weapon and armoring deficiencies when contending against Soviet tanks was soon seen. 46
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to build command vehicles, tank hunters, self propelled guns, anti- aircraft and ammunition chores, etc. Among all these I always had a soft spot for the “Panzerbefehlswagen”. I especially liked the late run of it with a huge antenna on its upper part and a few additional armoring planks on its front. So as soon as the Chinese manufacturer Dragon Kits put this vehicle on the market I bought it fast; here you’ve got the results.
L L
ater on, during the Polish and West campaigns, only the superior training and advanced warfare techniques employed by the German Army allowed this vehicle to work as an efficient weapon. This vehicle however was considered obsolete although it also took part on the North African campaign and the “Barbarossa” operation where it didn’t actually play a major role. The frame of the Panzer I was used
phase didn’t offer complications and I jus t changed the bogies axis for the corresponding photo etched piece. I continued building the main structure. You have to be very watchful, because Dragon instruction sheets are generally confusing and you can’t figure out correctly which pieces to use for each of the three versions possible. I recommend you to do your own research and look for pictures of the real thing. Once I was clear about the pieces I followed the instructions and assembled it all. In the commander’s armored dome I put some welding lines A S S E M B L Y using heat stretched plastic rods glued This is a new generation kit with with Tamiya liquid glue (See Hobby kit excellent details and a perfect fit. In school Panzer Aces/Armor Models order to add some more detail I issue number 22). I textured these employed Lion Roar’s photo etched using the tip of a knife. sheet. I also changed the tracks for a Then I glued the Photo etched specific Modelkasten reference. armored shields in the lower areas of I began as usual with the barge and the front and in the commander’s wheels which are very well reproduced. dome. I also added the wires for the In fact this is the first time that a Panzheadlights and the antenna’s support. er I styrene kit includes the guides for In order to give some personality to the tensor wheels. This assembly the vehicle I changed the front and rear
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O)+ !-$ '0%!1% 12!)-1 5%0% /+!#%$ - 2(% 20’1 #4%0.
O- 2(% &0-2 !0%! & 2(% (3++, 0)'(2 )&0-2 & 2(% 20!-1)11)(!2#( I’4% 0%/0$3#%$ ! -3"%0 & $)02 20!)+1.
P(2%2#(%$ /!021 !0% 12 -%#%11!07 2 '%2 2(% 0)'(2 $%2!)+1 - 2(% 1*% 1#0%%$%4)#% - 2/ & 2(% %6(!312.
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parts of the fenders for those included in the Lion Roar photo etched sheet. This is a tiresome thing to do, but the results are well worth it. I decided to leave one missing to simulate combat damage. Now I only had to place the antenna. I used a tin rod included in the Lion Roar set. I had to bend this antenna and adapt it to its proper measurements, but once in place it looked splendid. The kit was now ready for the decisive painting stage.
P A I N T I N G
For quite some time now, I wanted to portray an Afrika Korps armored vehicle with considerable wear. I wanted to do one of the vehicles used on the initial stages of the African fight. During this period, German vehicles were painted with the classic European dark grey scheme or were covered with sand colored paint from varied origins.
The first thing I did was to prime the kit by airbrushing Humbrol enamel 64. This priming helps you detect any possible assembly bloopers such as leftover plastic flake, glue remains, etc. Priming also covers and integrates all photo etched parts, and offers a solid base for acrylic paint which will come in later. Then I airbrushed an overall layer of Tamiya’s XF-63, toned down with XF-2. I protected this layer from future ageing processes by airbr ushing Tamiya’s gloss varnish on top of it. After the decals were in place (The lateral gates gave me lots of trouble and had to use great amounts of Micro Set and Micro Sol liquids in order to adapt decals to these surfaces) I protected them with a new layer of gloss varnish. From this point on things got a little difficult; as you’ll surely remember I wanted to portray a vehicle with an aged layer of sand color paint that reveals underneath ample areas showing the original German Grey paint scheme. I studied for this several techniques, and even tested some on the kit, but was not convinced with the results. I finally settled on the technique used to paint the StuG. III Ausf. B which appeared in the previous issue. I airbrushed a mixture of Humbrol enamels 81 and 94 on the entire kit. When this layer of paint had dried to touch (30 or 60 minutes later) I partially removed it using a couple of stiff brushes soaked on enamel thinner. I worked harder on some areas to get different degrees of wear, and also varied the amount of thinner in order to get different effects. This was finally more work than I bargained for, and the contrast between grey and sand color was stronger than I thought. Fortunately the following ageing processes integrated the difference between both colors, gaining in realistic looks. I allowed paint to dry up for a few days, and then I applied a few handmade paint filters. I used the three tones included in the Sin Industries filter set for Afrika Korps vehicles. When using these filters, do bear in mind that the kit will become slightly darker after each application. I continued to age
KITS USED K)2: - Sd. Kfz. 265 Kleine Panzerbefehlswagen, Dragon ref. 6218, 1/35 scale. P(2%2#(%1: - Sd.Kfz. 265 Kleine Panzerbefehlswagen I/w Matel Frame Antenna, Lion Roar ref. LE 35057. T0!#*1: - Pz.Kpfw, IB, Modelkasten ref. SK-32. A##%110)%1: - 3mm Light Lenses, Greif Accessories ref. GF 204A. - German cases 1st run, M4 Models ref. 35022.
paint by melting oil paint with a brush. This technique invented by Carlos de Diego some fifteen years ago is known by all hobbyists around the globe so I’m not going to give you further explanations. I used two earth tones 45 and 46, 1, 21, 7A and 35. I used the last paint reference to smooth out the transition between German gray and sand. Now the vehicle looked like it had seen some action, but I still had to wear it down some more: I needed a few paint chips and scratches. It’s always better to fall short than to overdo these effects, so I directly copied these from pictures of the real thing (not necessarily the self same unit though) and used Panzer Aces acrylic 302. Afterwards I created a number of dirt trails using oil paint, acrylics and even powdered pigments, especially on the front area of the hull which takes up the worst beatings. The armored vehicle was almost ready except for some details and the application of color pigments which I had yet to take care of. Before I got to it I eliminated some unwanted gloss by airbrushing two very thin layers of Marabu mat varnish. While varnish dried up (I usually allow a few days just to make sure) I painted the tools and fuel cases using specific Panzer Aces acrylics.
D)02 "!1)#!++7 !##3,3+!2%1 - 2(% (0)8-2!+ 130&!#%1.
Dirt became thus the final stage, and I took care of it with Mig Productions pigments P027, P028, P030 and P234. I began applying these on the lower areas of the vehicle where I
applied a dense mixture of these pigments on the brand’s own thinner which can be used to do washes with it. I went over several times with my brush but being careful not to overdo it
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COLOR CHART HUMBROL (enamels) 33 matt black 34 matt white 64 matt light grey 81 matt pale yellow 94 matt brown yellow TAMIYA (acrylics) X-22 smoke XF-2 flat qhite XF-63 German grey PANZER ACES (acrylics) 302 dark rust 307 red tail light 308 green tail light 310 old wood 311 new wood 315 light mud 316 dark mud MODEL COLOR (acrylics) 871 leather brown
T(% 4%()#+%’1 (%!$+)'(21 (!4% "%%- #,/+%,%-2%$ 5)2( 3,, G0%)& A##%110)%1 +%-1%1. T(%1% !0% &)6%$ )- /+!#% 1)-' 5()2% '+%.
SIN INDUSTRIES (enamels) P403 filter set Afrika Korps MIR (oils) 1 titanium white 7A cadmium yellow deep 21 cinnabar green 45 raw umber 46 burnt umber 50 bitume 502 ABTEILUNG (oils) 35 buff MIG PRODUCTIONS (pigments) P027 light dust P028 Europe dust P030 beach sand P234 rubbel dust MARABU (varnish) 110805 matt varnish
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T(% +5%0 !0%!1 & 2(% 4%()#+% (!4% ! $%-1% ,)620% & /5$%0%$ #+0 /)',%-21 - %-!,%+ 2()--%0. T()1 )1 (5 5% #!- #-4%7 $)02 0 1!-$ #+12%01.
because I wanted to recreate clusters of sand and not mud. Then I dirtied lightly the upper part of the kit; I prepared a mixture of pigments which I spread with a brush, and then smeared it using a brush soaked in thinner. I did it by setting this on the corners of the armored surface and on those areas that usually accumulate dirt. I finished by doing an oil mixture of
50 and gloss varnish, to create grease and fuel spills and then used a soft pencil to simulate wear on some edges. I would like to end this review by thanking mi friend Luis Fernando Solanas for his wise advice and comments, which makes this hobby doubly fun when we get together on Sundays in the Agrupación Artística Aragonesa.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
- BRANDFORD, George R. Armour Camouflage & Markings: North Africa, 19401943, Arms and Armour Press, London, 1976.
G%0,!-1 $0%5 ! 52% #011 - 2% #!1%1 #-2!--' 5!2%0. S,%2,%1 2%7 !+1 /!-2%$ ! 9: 0'2 "7 2% /%--' 5# 12$ &0 !11%0 (5!2%0).
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B!% #+0 &0 2(% 20!#* ) M$%+ C+0 !#0+)# 871. I2 (! "%%- ')4%- %4%0!+ %!02( #+0%$ )+ 5!(% !-$ M)' P0$3#2)- /)',%-2 5!(%.
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S&2 /%-#)+ +%!$ (! "%%- 3%$ 2 #-4% &0)#2)- )- ,%2!+ !0%! 3#( ! 2(% 2%%2( & %!#( 20!#* %#2)- !-$ ,% /023"%0!-2 %$'% )- 2(% !0,0)-'.
K+.P8.B%&.'. (S$.K&8. 265), P+!-$, S%/%"%0 1939.
K+.P8.B%&.'. (S$.K&8. 265), P8.R'. 5, 21. P8.D., G!"0, L7"!, N%"%0 1941.
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By: Steve Palffy Dragon
54
Pictures by the auther 1/35
This PTO Sherman is one of those models I’ve always wanted to build and was delighted to see Dragon release it; I had purchased it primarily based on the box art and the 250 parts listed, as the typical 700-1000 part Dragon kits tend to scare me off.
N
ow there is some debate as to whether the marines used this late production 75mm gun 47 degrees hull plate M4A2? Well the reference I have you can’t tell the difference between M4A3 and M4A2, you can’t see the rear hull (different exhausts)either because off remnants of wading trunks (snorkel) or the lighting or shadows, there are also few if any ? photos or movies of the rear upper M#$+ !$%0$ /(-2, 1-#!&1, 1/(*$1 -# /+-* 030.
M#$+ !$%0$ /(-2, -("$ 2 '4$ 25 "!+$ (-"+3#$# (- *(2.
deck (smaller doors on M4A2), and as far as documentaries they are basically only referred to as Tanks if the word Sherman is even used, let alone M4A2 or A3 etc. Now for the paint, there are quite a few images of three color Sherman’s (black and white) and sand and green or just green in color, but I know I’ve seen green, red brown and sand ones somewhere! I just really liked the box art so a camouflage of red brown, sand and green plus the addition of plank armour, hatch spikes and sandbag armour it would be! DID I SAY I REALLY LIKED THE BOX ART! I have noticed that the box art on the vast majority of the Dragon kits I have purchased are all painted in the same style.
P+-* 030 ##$# %0 1'$$2 1270$-$ -2$ #$2(+ +1 - (-1(#$ % 5'$$+1.
A S S E M B L Y
This kit was a nice easy straight forward build just study and follow the instructions, just a few minor things to watch for Part A41 the tow hitch should be glued on with the release handle facing up.
Parts A66 idler mounts should be glued to give some tension to the track. Trim a little off the bottom of parts C4 rear lamps or the guards will not fit. Glue part B20 inside turret first then gun mantlet parts from outside. You will have heaps of spare parts left over, double check instructions so that you didn’t forget any.
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KIT USED Kit: - USMC M4A2 PTO Late, Dragon ref. 6462, 1/35 scale.
Adding detail Resin 75mm ammunition crates were added as part of rear deck armour. Hatch spikes These were welded on the real vehicle so that satchel charges could not be placed directly on the hatches the space created between the two preventing them from being blown open. Using 0.3mm drill bit in pin vice holes were drilled into all hatches. Short pieces of 0.3mm copper wire were then glued into this using instant glue. Copper wire is then trimmed to length with side cutters, and then bent to desired angle.
T'$ $-2(0$ #$+ (1 &(4$- /0($0 "2 % T(7 1/07 /0($0, 2'(1 1$04$1 2 &(4$ &# #'$1(- %0 %++5(-& /(-2 -# ++51 73 2 $1(+7 1/2 -7 &/1 0 (/$0%$"2(-1.
O5$0 '3++ -# 20"*1 0$ &(4$- "2 % !3%%.
Plank armour Additional plank armour was added to the bogies, this was fabricated from 1.5mm sheet styrene, and the grain applied by dragging hack saw blades down its length, also knots, scrapes etc using knife point. Bolts were added, removing/shearing them from the plethora of unused left over kit parts. Planks were then attached to bogies using 1.5mm styrene scrap as spacer.
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Sandbags These were simply made by rolling out some epoxy two parts putty into 5mm noodles. Cutting these into 10mm long pieces. Slightly rounding off the edges. Gently press knife blade around for seams. Slightly flatten them. Push them gently into place on the model. Using blade creases are added. A knot is attached by rolling a small ball of putty attaching it to one end and indenting it with blade.
D$"* 2- (1 (0!031'$# -2 0$1 2'2 5(++ 0$2(- +(&'2 "3%+&$ "+0.
running gear, tracks and lower hull, this was then followed by deck tan for the light camouflage color, next the green The first step in painting is a good (field grey gives a nice faded green base or primer coat in this case because color) was applied by first outlining the of the metal parts Tamiya spray primer pattern and then coloring inside the was used. lines, the same was repeated using NATO brown. Airbrushing A panel fade of mostly thinner, white All colors used for airbrushing are and deck tan was then applied (after Tamiya: some chips and scratches added by Using my Tamiya spray work Hg-T brush). airbrush, starting with Buff for all the P A I N T I N G
T'$ &0$$- 0$1 0$ %(012 32+(-$# -# 2'$- "+0$# (-, I 31(-& %($+# &0$7 1 (2 &(4$1 -("$ %#$# &0$$- !1$ 2 5$2'$0 4$0.
Tracks were given a random coat of titanium. Note: panel fade concentrates color to the center of thing leaving edges darker or base color. Brush work
All colors used are Vallejo: Chipping and scratches of dark sand on wooden areas only and bronze green on everything else. Tools, metal parts: bronze green light dry brush of oily steel, wooden Handles: Iraqi sand streaked with vermillion.
NATO !05- (1 2'$- //+($#.
Spare track: bronze green. Sandbags: stone grey. Crates: dark and Iraqi sand. Headlights: off white followed by oily steel wash. Rear lights: upper: vermillion, lower bronze green. Rubber road wheels: bronze green Drive sprocket teeth and idler: bronze green edged with oily steel. Exhaust: spotting and chipping of bronze green. Note: bronze green is very dark green\ grey almost a faded black.
A /-$+ %#$ % #$"* 2-, 5'(2$ -# 2'(--$0 (1 //+($# !7 (0!031'.
U1(-& %(-$ !031', 1"02"'$1 % !0-8$ &0$$- 0$ //+($# 2 $4$072'(-& -# #0* 1-# 2 )312 2'$ /+-*1.
U1(-& %(-$ !031' ++ #$2(+1 0$ /(-2$# (- 12-$ &0$7 %0 1-#!&1 -# !0-8$ &0$$- %0 $2+ 2+1.
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W(2' (0!031' "02$1 -# 1-# !&1 0$ &(4$- /-$+ %#$ % 5'(2$. T'0$# 0/$1 0$ 2'$- 2($# (-.
R3!!$0 0# 5'$$+1 0$ /(-2$# !0-8$ &0$$-.
T0"*1 0$ #07 !031'$# (+7 12$$+ 4$0 2(2-(3 1(+4$0 4$0 !3%%.
Weathering Using airbrush a panel fade off mostly thinner and white was applied to sandbags, crates and randomly streaked on vehicle. An oil wash of burnt umber was applied to everything followed by pinpoint washes of black and Sienna; tracks were given a second Sienna wash. Dark sand was diluted with water and pin point washed into tracks and wheels.
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Final touches A little exhaust staining was added, also some grass roots and litter to the base, thread was also added to tie down sandbags and crates. Al final sobran montones de piezas para el cajón de sastre, hay que comprobar bien las instrucciones para no olvidarse de pegar alguna pieza necesaria.
U1(-& +0&$ !031' !30-2 3!$0 (+ 51' (1 //+($# 4$0 $-2(0$ #$+.
P(-/(-2 51'$1 % S($--, !30-2 3!$0 -# !+"* (+1 0$ 2'$- //+($#.
U1(-& 1(+4$0 /$-"(+ 4$07 %(-$ 1"02"'$1 0$ //+($# 03-# '2"'$1 -# 2'$0 '(&' 5$0 0$1.
G R O U N D
Ground work consists of cellulose clay, using a stiff brush applied over cling wrap so that it can be removed once dry to make painting easier.
W'+$ 12++ 5$2 "$++3+1$ "+7 !1$ 1 2$6230$# 52' 12%% !031', 4$'"+$, /+ +&1, #$!01 -# /+ %0-#1 0$ +1 -1$02$#.
P+ +&1 0$ 1/+7 #5$+ 2'2 1 -#$-2$# !7 1#$ "322$01 ("0$2-& 0-&1).
After it has set for about half an hour vehicle is pushed into it to leave track marks. Palm plants Logs/trunks are made by slightly cutting into dowel using little pressure with a pair of side cutters. Leaves/fronds are made by pushing feathers into base or in case of large palm gluing them to trunk.
E-20$ !1$ 1 0!031'$# !3%% %++5$# !7 '&'+&'2-& % #$"* 2-; /+ %0-#1 0$ /-2$# NATO &0$$-.
Base painting Entire base is airbrushed buff followed by deck tan, leaves/fronds NATO green An oil wash of burnt umber liberally applied. Pin point washes of black, primarally to trunks,
B30-2 3!$0 51' 1 //+$# 2 $-20$ !1$, %++5$# !7 0-# 1/21 % 1$-- -# 2'$ /+ 203-*1 0$ &4$- +&'2 51' % !+"*.
A 51' % !30-2 3!$0 + /-2 -# #0+$11 1+4$-2 1 6$# 3/ - - +# 13"$0.
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D0* 1-# #(+32$# 5(2' 52$0 (1 !031'$# (-2 2'$ 20"*1 -# +5$0 03--(-& &$0.
T,(7 5$2'$0(-& 1$2 (1 31$# 2 //+7 12 )312 !4$ $6'3121 - 0$0 /+2$.
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C,/+$2$ PTO S'$0,- ,#$+ 0$#7 %0 #(1/+7.
T'$ $-2(0$ ,#$+ (1 (0!031'$# ,22 40-(1' ,(6$# 5(2' 52$0.
COLOUR CHART TAMIYA (spray) AS18 light grey TAMIYA (acrylics) X-32 titanium silver XF-2 flat white XF-55 deck tan XF-57 buff XF-65 field grey XF-67 NATO green XF-68 NATO brown MODEL COLOR (acrylics) 520 matt varnish 819 Iraqui sand 847 dark sand 865 oily steel 884 stone grey 897 bronze green 947 red
R3- 57 (2 '1 1/(*$19 H$#+/1 5$0$ /(-2$# !1$ "2 %% 5'(2$, (+7 12$$+ 51' %++5$# !7 !+"* (+ 51'.
N2$ 2'$ '$47 12(-1 %0 2'$ !! 2'05$0 - 2'$ 2300$2.
REMBRANDT (oils) 54092 burnt umber 54112 burnt Sienna 57012 black TAMIYA (wet pigments) 87080 soot
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M odelling Lessons
B: Fea#d$ G$#1!e S1#che Text by: Carlos de Diego Vaquerizo Pictures by: Fernando Cañellas Planchuelo
ADAPTING DECALS Whe# +e a%%! deca!' $# a i( +e 'h$)!d bea& i# "i#d (ha( $#ce +e’&e d$#e +i(h (he %ai#(i#g %&$ce''e' +e a&e )')a!! ab!e ($ 'ee (he (&a#'%a&e#( &i" $f (he deca! i('e!f.
T T
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here are a number of products in the market that deal with decals in order to conceal this unwanted effect. We are talking about some special liquid that soften this transparent rim or film and help it “fit” into the surface that the decal has been applied to. No matter how rugged the surface might be, these liquid soften the decal and help it adhere to the surface. These products are made by several brands. These products usually work well but we should bear in mind that unfortunately decals sometimes have a very thick transparent film. When this is the case, the edge of the decal has a tiny bump around it which makes it look pretty unrealistic. This can sometimes be concealed by further trimming the decal using a brand new X-acto knife. This “cutting to measure” is relatively simple to do when we’re dealing with a German cross, an American star, block numerals, etc. This is the most efficient way to get rid of this transparent rim and keep only the printed motif which is just what we need. What happens when the motif has hollow areas on the inside or it’s just too complex to trim with a knife? In this case we will have to use varnish to conceal the film. This is a simple process and results are usually very satisfactory. You just have to chose the right varnish, clean well your airbrush kit and be a little neat. I recommend acrylic varnish, because enamels can be ruined during the weathering process, like when you’re using turpentine, White Spirit or enamel thinner. This will only give ruinous results.
The %&$d)c(' e"%!$ed f$& deca! ada%(a(i$#. We ha*e ch$'e# f$& (he &e*ie+ a# a&"ed *ehic!e c$*e&ed +i(h a &)gged a#(i"ag#e(ic %a'(e ca!!ed /Zi""e&i(0.
The a&ea +he&e (he deca! i' g$i#g ($ be fi,ed i' c$*e&ed - a c$)%!e $f !ae&'- +i(h g!$'' *ai'h. The )'e $f (he ai&b&)'h i( i' "$'( #ece''a& f$& (he *ai'h.
First you’ll have to airbrush gloss varnish in two thin layers, but only on the areas where decals belong. Varnish
should be thinned 50% using the brand’s specific thinner. Once varnish dries up to touch (better still if we can
The &a#'%a&e# fi!" a&$#d he deca! i' &i""ed &igh $ he %&i#ed '&face. Y$ 'h$!d 'e a b&a#d #e+ #ife a#d d$#’ ee& $$ "ch %&e''&e +he# ci#g. O# '&aigh edge' i’' ad*i'ab!e $ 'e a "ea! &!e& $ gide he c.
I# hi' %ic&e +e’*e a!'$ c he %a%e& '%%$& #de& he deca! i# $&de& $ !e -$ 'ee i bee& i# he %ic&e. Thi' 'h$!d #$ be d$#e beca'e i $#!- he!%' c&*e d$+# he edge' $f he deca! c&eai#g '$"e ada%ai$# %&$b!e"'.
Whe# he %a%e& '%%$& $f he deca! ha' bee# #de& +a&" +ae& f$& ab$ 30 'ec$#d', +e a%%!- he deca! $ he i 'i#g a %ai& $f +eee&'.
The ada%i#g %&$dc i' di'&ibed h&$gh he deca! 'i#g a b&'h. Pa'' he b&'h 'e*e&a! i"e' h&$gh he deca! +hi!e ee&i#g a '!igh %&e''&e.
Ece'' %&$dc i' &e"$*ed 'i#g a c$$# '+ab. Thi' %&$dc ha' a e#de#c- $ !ea*e '$"e &e"ai#', a#d ha i' +h- ece'' ha' $ be &e"$*ed (if %$''ib!e) +ih a b&'h.
A fi#a! !a-e& $f g!$'' *ai'h i#eg&ae' he deca! $ he '&face.
wait two hours), we’ll place the first decal and apply with a brush the liquid we’ve mentioned earlier, brushing the decal several times until it fully adapts to the surface. Leftover liquid can be carefully removed with a clean brush while pressing against the decal to get rid of unwanted air bubbles. If air bubbles can’t be eliminated with a brush, then we’ll
have to puncture the decal with a needle or a knife. Bubbles are however rare on small decals. We do this with every decal applied. Once dry, we airbrush a new layer of gloss varnish (two or three if the film is too thick). This is done to fully integrate the decal with the surface, and then we get rid of the glossy effect by applying a final layer of mat varnish.
This technique really conceals the decal’s film and we obtain a much more realistic result. One final recommendation: Wait one or two days before you begin with the weathering treatments.
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