Transcript
Derya Tama,
Ziynet Öndoğan
Ege University, Textile Engineering Department,
35100 Bornova-İzmir, Turkey Turkey,,
[email protected],
[email protected]
Fitting Evaluation of Pattern Making Systems According to Female Body Shapes Abstract In orde orderr to prov provide ide clothing t, it is necessary to associate garment patterns with body shapes. In this study study,, basic skirt patterns werec werecreate reated d using the Computer Aided De sign (CAD) system according according to Contec, Metric, Müller, Müller, and Basic Blocks Pattern Mak ing Systems in order to evaluate t. These patterns are dressed up on virtual mannequins which have been created in the three-dimensional (3D) virtual sewing and try-on system. The mannequins’ sizes (38) and body dimensions are specied according to international size charts. Besides this the body body shapes are are selected as hourglass hourglass,, triangle, or rectangle. rectangle. The t is evaluated according to pressure and tension maps, which are the tools of the 3D virtual sewing and try-on system. Although the mannequins are in same the size, different results are obtained for each body shape. Also different results are acquired for each pat tern making system. Consequently it can be said that the pattern making systems are not suitable for each body shape.
Key words: body shapes, garment pattern, 3D virtual sewing and try-on system, pattern making systems, t and satisfaction.
external inuences, body cathexis and physical dimensions of the garment as important factors inuencing t [3]. Although each person’s denition of that may be subjective, satisfaction with clothing t will be higher if the body shape of the wearer can be considered when the clothing is designed and manufactured. Body shape is the major factor that has an inuence on t and satisfacsatisfaction with clothing [2]. Ideal body shapes have always been used by the apparel industry, from which technicians take dimensions for pattern making and tting and designers create their new designs. It is also used by manufacturers for showing their garments, as models for hire , and is needed by consumers for their representation [4].
n
Introduction
Dressing is one of the fundamental needs of the human being, serving various and diverse purposes [1]. Most people want clothing that ts well [2]. Fit in women’s wear is a complex issue with many facts. The earliest conceptual framework on consumers’ satisfaction with the t of ready-to-wear identied personal and
Making garment patterns accurately is also important. It is necessary to associate garment patterns with body shapes in order to provide t and satisfaction. Many different pattern making systems are used in the apparel industry, developed according to the nation’s anatomy and changes in the pattern preparation steps with respect to different systems. These systems are also widely used in countries which lack their own pattern making systems. Therefore it is necessary to investigate these systems and their t. In this context the pattern mak ing systems are evaluated using international standard size charts. In this study, four common pattern making systems are evaluated. The Contec Pattern Making System, developed in Germany, is suitable for computer ap-
Tama D, Öndoğan Z. Fitting Evaluation of Pattern Making Systems According to Female Body Shapes. FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2014; 22, 4(106): 107-111. 107-111.
plications and hand drawing. British researcher Winifred Aldrich developed the Metric Pattern Making System, in which garment patterns can be easily prepared using very few assistant lines. There are some additional measurements and they are added to the body measurements during pattern making. In the Muller Pattern Making System, which was developed by Michael Muller for Germans, the basic measurements are taken from the body directly. Other measurements are calculated during pattern drawing using these measurements. The Basic Blocks Pattern Making System was developed in America by Handford in 1984. In this system, patterns are drawn by the combination of simple blocks [5]. Scientists have been greatly interested in human body shape classication. Based on long-time studies, human body shapes have been classied according to inherent body characteristics and somatoshapes have been determined [6]. Somatotyping is the most recent development in the twenty-ve century history of morphomorphological taxonomy and constitutional investigation [7]. Somatotyping reects the overall outlook of the body and conveys a meaning of the totality of morphological features of the human body [6]. When descriptions of different body or gure shapes are being discussed, the somatoshape terms are not usually the most common. Instead of these terms ap parel manufacturers have developed new body shapes [8]. Some apparel manufacturers have used alphabets (H, O, A, X, R, I, S), geometric shapes (Rectangular, Oval, Triangle), names of fruits (Apple, 107
Table 1. Female
body shape classication body classication [7, [7, 9].
Body Shape
Defnitions
Hourglass
A very small small difference difference between bust bust and hip circumferences circumferences The ratios of bust-to-waist and hips-to-waist are about equal and signicant
Top hourglass
A larger larger bust circumference circumference than hip hip circumference circumference The ratios of bust-to-waist and hips-to-waist measurements measurements are signicant enough to produce a denite waistline
Bottom hourglass
A larger larger hip circumference circumference than the bust circumference circumference The ratios of bust-to-waist and hips-to waist are signicant enough to produce a denite waistline
Spoon
A larger larger circumferential circumferential difference difference in hips and bust bust The bust-to-waist ratio is lower than the hourglass shape The hip-to-waist ratio is high
Triangle
A larger larger hip circumference circumference than that that of the bust The ratio of hip-to-waist was small Larger in the hips than in the bust without having a dened waistline
Rectangle
Bust and hip measurement fairly equal Bust-to-waist and hip-to-waist ratios are low There is not a clearly discernible waistline The average of the stomach, waist and abdomen measurements is less than the bust measurement
Diamond
The average of the stomach, waist, and abdomen measurements is more than the bust measurement
Inverted Triangle
A larger larger bust circumference circumference than that that of the hips A small small bust-to-waist ratio
waist and hip measurements according to body shapes.
B us ust circumfr.
Waist circumfr.
88
70
Hip circumfr. 96
86 74 88
New technology that includes digital virtual human and digital virtual garments has had a signicant impact on the cur rent apparel industry. Virtual simulation technology enables the visualisation of a 3D virtual garment on a virtual avatar so that consumers can try on garments with their virtual mannequins before purchasing [12]. n
Oval
Table 2. Bust,
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Pear) and other distinctly shaped things (Hourglass, Bean, Heart) to classify body shapes [4]. They refer to more or less the same gures with different codes of identication and are based on the propro portions of the body’s silhouette mostly from the front view [9]. Since a desired t is becoming more imim portant for consumers, research on body shape classication has increased worldworldwide. Karla Simmons from North Carolina State University studied this subject in 2002 [8]. Simmons created computer software for body shape classication. In her study, Simmons used bust, waist, hip and high hip circumference measure108
Shape
Final result of formula
26.2 > 25.6 cm 22.2 < 23.0 cm 14.1 < 23.0 cm and 23.2 < 25.6 cm
sistent measurements and are convenient to use. However, apparel professionals consider dress forms as supplementary because they do not accurately represent the shape of a live model [11].
B od ody shape
Hourglass Triangle Rectangle
ments and the relationship between them in order to identify the body shapes. According to this research Simmons classied female body shapes under nine groups (Table 1). Methods of examining t, live t modmodels and dress forms have been commonly used together. Although t models can vary in their measurements and may not be perfectly symmetrical, they can comment on mist areas based on judgments of both the feel and look of the garment. Although t sessions are mainly conductconducted with live models, patternmakers or designers also use dress forms during product development because they have con-
Material and methods
The pattern making systems used are developed according to the nation’s anatomy where the researches are carried out. In the apparel industry, rst the basic patterns must be prepared and after this step model patterns can be acquired by using these basic patterns, which must be prepared accurately in order to obtain a full t. Therefore the accuracy of basic pattern making systems should be researched. In this study, Contec, Metric, Müller, and Basic Blocks pattern making systems, which are commanly used arround the world, are evaluated. Basic skirt patterns are created in the Gerber AccuMark V8 CAD System according to these four pattern making systems. These skirt patterns are dressed up on virtual mannequins, which have different body shapes in the same size and are created using the 3D virtual sewing and try-on (V-Stitcher) systems. Afterwards the t is evaluated. Body measurements of the virtual mannequins are obtained from international standard size charts [13]. The table of normal sizes is used and bust, waist and hip circumference measurements for size 38 are taken from this table. Size 38 is selected due to it is prevalence. These measurements are 88 cm for the bust circumference, 72 cm for the waist circumference and 97 cm for the hip cirTable 3.
Colours according to assessment
range. Assessment range
Colors
Very tight Tight Well Large Very large
Red Red - Orange Yellow - Green Light blue - Yellow White
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cumference. The skirt patterns are pre pared according to these measurements. Measurement ranges are determined for the bust circumference as 86 - 90 cm, for the waist circumference - 70 - 74 cm, and for the hip circumference - 95 - 99 cm according to EN 13402-3: Measurements and Intervals Standard. The three most common female body shapes are selected as hourglass, rectangle, and triangle in order to evaluate the desired t. The body measurements of these body shapes are calculated with the help of the study performed by Lee et al [2]. In their study, they developed several formulas, which include bust, waist and hip circumference measurements, to dene body shapes. With respect to the measurement ranges discussed above, the mannequins’ body measurements are calculated with the help of these formulas. During the calculation process, optimum body measurements are chosen according to the EN 13402-3 standard. The mathematical formula dened for the hourglass category is: If (bust-hips) < = 2.56 cm then If (hips-bust) < 9.22 cm then If (bust-waist) > = 23.04 cm or (hipswaist)> = 25.6 cm then shape = “Hourglass” n
The mathematical formula dened for the triangle category is: If (hips-bust) >= 9.22 cm then If (hips-waist) < 23.04 cm then shape = “Triangle” n
Table 4. Visuals
of skirts according to contec, metric, müller and basic blocks systems for the hourglass body type. Pattern making system
Gene Ge nera rall app appea eara ranc nce e
Visu Vi sual al of sk skir irt’ t’s s tension
Visual of skirt’s pressure
Contec system
Metric system
Müller system
Basic blocks system
Table 5. Visuals
of skirts according to Contec, Metric, Müller and Basic blocks systems for triangle body type. Pattern making system
Visual of of sk skirt
Visual of of sk skirt’s tension
Visual of skirt’s pressure
Contec system
The mathematical formula dened for the rectangle category is: If (hips-bust) < 9.22 cm and (bust-hips) < 9,216 cm then If (bust-waist) < 23.04 and (hips-waist) < 25.6 cm then shape = “Rectangle” n
Metric system
Virtual mannequins are created in a system according to the measurements and body shapes which are shown in Table 2. The skirt patterns are also created virtually according to the four pattern making systems by using 50% Cotton - 50% PES, 252 g/m2 and twill fabric. The virtual tryon is generated and nally the skirt visuvisuals are procured. Pressure and tension maps, which are the tools of V-Stitcher, V-Stitcher, are used to evaluate the t. The tension map represents the tension level of the stretched fabric based on its physical properties, pattern size and the visual mannequin’s size. The FIBRES & TEXTILES in Eastern Europe 2014, Vol. 22, 4(106)
Müller system
Basic blocks system
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Table 6. Visuals
of skirts according to Contec, Metric, Müller and Basic blocks systems for rectangle body type. Pattern making system
Visual of skirt
Visual of skirt’s pressure
Visual of skirt’s tension
Contec system
Metric system
Basic blocks system
Table 7. General evaluation of hourglass, triangle and rectangle body shapes according to pattern making making systems.
Hourglass Triangle Rectangle
Evaluation criteria
Contec
Waist line
Large
Hips line
Well
Waist line Hips line Waist line Hips line
Large Well
tension map’s colours range from white through light blue, green, yellow and orange to red. The tension colour codes represent numeric values in g/cm from 0 (White) to 1000 (Red). The pressure map represents the pressure level exerted by the stretched garment on the body, which depends on the fabric’s physical properties, the pattern size and the visual mannequin’s size. As on the tension map, the pressure map’s colors range from white, through light blue, green, yellow and orange to red. The body pressure colour codes represent numeric values in g/cm2 from 0 (White) to 100 (Red) [14]. Unfortunately the numeric values of pressure and tension for each color cannot be 110
Conclusions and suggestions
Skirt patterns are generally evaluated for each body shape with respect to the waist and hip lines using V-Stithcer (Table 7 ), ), the evaluation of which is carried out according to the ve-point likert. The asassessment ranges are determined as very tight, tight, well, large and very large. The views of the virtual mannequins are analysed for three body shapes using pressure and tension maps. When visuals are evaluated for each pattern making system, different results are obtained for each body shape, although the mannequins in three body shapes are of the same size. According to the general evaluations of body shapes, it is seen that Contec, Metric, Müller and Basic Blocks Pattern Making Systems can be used for rectangle and hourglass body shapes. Further more it is observed that all skirts, which are prepared in four pattern making systems, have t problems for triangle body shapes. It is possible to say that when the difference between hip and waist circumferences is high, it causes t problems.
Müller system
Body shape
n
Metric
Well Large
Müller
Basic blocks
Very large
Tight
Large Very large Large
Well
Well
Large Tight
calculated from the virtual garments due to the disadvantage of V-Stitcher. Alteration in pressure and tension values of the garment is represented only by colours. In order to evaluate the pressure and tension maps, the ve-point likert is used. The assessment range was determined as very tight, tight, well, large and very large. The colours according to the assessment range are shown in Table 3. Findings
The general appearance, tension and pressure visuals of the skirts are obtained for each pattern making system according to hourglass (Table 4), rectangle (Table 5 ) and triangle (Table 6 ) body types.
As a result of this study, it can be said that the pattern making systems are not suitable for each body shape. For this reason the pattern making systems should be revised with respect to different body shapes. For instance, the numnum ber, location and width of the darts can be calculated according to the difference between hip and waist circumferences in the pattern making systems, which have constant dart widths. Developing alternatives for garment patterns, modeling ap plications and pattern grading according to different body shapes allows manufacturers to provide t and satisfaction. It is very important to nd the character istics of each body shape among races and countries. Body shape comparisons between countries give the opportunity to discover ways of improving the sizing systems of each, as well as impact the development of international sizing standards that could have a signicant impact on brands producing products for a variety of international consumers with different sizes and shapes [2]. It can be seen that it is necessary to analyse the target group’s body shapes to determine the most appropriate pattern making system.
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Instytut Biopolimerów i Włókien Chemicznych Institute of Biopolymers and Chemical Fibres
Multiflament Chitosan Yarn The Institute of Bioploymers and Chemical Fibres is in possession of the know- how and equipment to start the production of continuous chitosan bres on an extended lab scale. The Institute is highly experienced in the wet – spinning of polysaccharides, especially chitosan. The Fibres from Natural Polymers department, run by Dr Dariusz Wawro, has elaborated a proprietary environmently-friendly method of producing continuous chitosan bres with bobbins wound on in a form suitable for textile processing and medical application.
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