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LIFE
SARAWAK
THE RANEE OF SARAWAK
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PREFACE
IT
is
well
the
for
Malay races of Sarawak
they should find an advocate in their Ranee, for she loves them. To know Ranee
that
Brooke
know that, and Sarawak will realize
is
Life in
and
to
will feel that, in the
those
their confidence
only
way
to get at
read her
this fact to the full,
years she spent with these
simple people, she must have proved
won
who
them and That is the the hearts of a Malay people, it
to
by her sympathy.
and though the native population of this section of Borneo is divided into at least two sections, Malays and Dyaks, differing widely in religion, customs,
—
—
and language, they are Malay family which is
still
members over
spread
of the great
Malay
the
Peninsula, Sumatra, Java, Borneo, the islands of the
Archipelago, and farther the
Malay race
writer to
tell
afield.
It is
well for
any of
that they should find a sympathetic
the world something of their
little lives,
and exclusive people.
They do
for they are a silent
not understand publicity, they do not want as they are fairly and justly treated
;
it,
so long
indeed, superficial
observers might think that Malays do not really care
how they
are governed, and that
it
is
a matter of
— SARAWAK AND
viii
ITS
PEOPLE
them whether they are treated well or ill. Those who take the trouble to win his regard know that the Malay is as keenly interested in his own and his country's affairs as are those of other nationalities. He is humble about his own capacity, and that of his fellow-countrymen, to organize and indifference to
endeavour, to frame a scheme of righteous govern-
ment and to ensue it. He will, if properly approached and considerately handled by Europeans, be the first to
admit that they understand the business better,
that they are more trustworthy in matters of justice and money, and that they have a conception of duty, of method,
and especially a power of continuous
application to work, which
is
indeed well-nigh impossible
foreign and irksome
—
him.
to
Treat him
remember that he represents the people of the country for whose benefit, as Lord
fairly,
reasonably, justly,
Curzon of Kedleston
said,
and, though the white
man
the white
man is there, own hands
retains in his
the principal offices, the real power, and the
which
is
his burden, the
tion, gratitude,
and
Malay
will
loyal support,
work
give him admiraand show no sign
of jealousy or impatience.
If one bears in mind, as indeed one must, that the growth of the white man's
and the adoption of that advice which we say makes for good government, mean always the influence,
lessening of the Malay's authority
ment or
abolition of his privileges,
privileges in our opinion, ful
—
it is
and the
curtail-
—very often
bad
surely rather wonder-
and rather admirable that he should accept
his
PREI^ACE
'
ix
fate with
The
such a good, often even a charming, grace. Malay does not always approve of our methods,
and
sometimes they are really indefensible, but, though he disapproves, what is he to say? To whom is he to complain, and how ? We sometimes learn his language, because that benefit;
is
necessary for our
we even
take trouble to inquire about his customs and other matters concerning him and his life
;
but very, very rarely does he learn either our
language, or enough of our customs, to
heard
He
effectively.
make
realizes this better
himself
than almost
any other thing, and therefore, being a fatalist, he accepts what comes because he knows there is no other way. Given his nature, his traditions, his way of
life
through
disabilities,
all
the generations, and his present
how (is he
to
do otherwise
?
When
you
have handed over to others the control of everything
you once had, can you complain of
faith,
or even of
little
to
them of breach
things like the neglect of
your interests when they happen to clash with your controllers'
wishes or ambitions
humble or subordinate difficult to assert
.''
positions,
Western people, sometimes
find
in it
themselves, or what they believe to
Malay it is impossible. That being so, one would imagine that every white man who comes into a position of authority amongst such a people, so circumstanced, will be doubly and trebly careful to remember that the greater his power, the more need there is not only to be their rights
;
to the
seek, with single purpose, the benefit of " the people
SARAWAK AND
X
PEOPLE
ITS
of the country," but to champion their cause
he knows be to
it
is
right
—against
all
—when
comers, and
if
need
own detriment. To betray Malays, is like a mean advantage of a blind man who has
his
taking
put his hand in yours, in the firm belief that he
To
safe in his blind trust of you.
that trust should be unthinkable.
of the customs of what
is
is
take advantage of I
am
not writing
called business, nor even of
ways of rival powers for in both these cases the means employed are less regarded than the end to be I am only gained, and success justifies all things. the
;
dealing with the mission of the white
any reason whatever, he undertakes the affairs of a people territory,
who
man when,
for
to administer
possess a possibly rich
but are unskilled in the art of administra-
That was the case of Sarawak when Sir James Brooke undertook its pacification and development in 1 84 1. This is not the place to describe the
tion.
task set before the it is,
I
first
white Rajah of Sarawak, but
think, the opportunity to point the
moral of an
achievement which probably has no
parallel. James Brooke must have been a man for whom the soft life of cities had no attraction, but he did not approach the problem of enforcing peace in a greatly
disturbed province of Borneo as large as England,
and suppressing piracy on its coasts, in the spirit of an adventurer; he described his objects in the following words " It is a grand experiment, which, if :
it
succeeds, will
people;
and
bestow a blessing on these poor
their
children's
children
shall
bless
;
PREFACE me.
If
it
please
God
to permit
XI
me
to give a
stamp
which shall last after I am no more, have lived a life which emperors might envy.
to this country I
If
shall
by dedicating myself
to the
task
I
am
able to
introduce better customs and settled laws, and to raise the feeling of the people so that their rights can
never in future be wantonly infringed,
I
shall
indeed
be content and happy."
Those were his intentions, and to that end he worked for twenty-six years with a success as remarkable as his own devotion and abnegation of
When
James Brooke died in 1868 he left to his nephew and appointed successor, the present Rajah of Sarawak, a peaceful and contented country, the hearts of whose people he had won by self-interest.
studying them, their interests, their customs, their
and their happiness, and to them he gave his life and energy and everything he possessed. It was a remarkable achievement, and he left to the country of his adoption the " stamp " of his heart's desire. Much more than that, he established a precedent on which his successor has acted with unswerving consistency for the last forty-six years it is the stamp of Brooke rule, and so long as it lasts peculiarities,
all will
be well with Sarawak.
Interesting
and
successful as
were the methods of
administration introduced and established in Sarawak
by Sir James Brooke and the present Rajah, I cannot go into them. It is sufficient to say that Sarawak has been ruled by the Brookes " for the benefit of the
:
SARAWAK AND
xii
ITS
PEOPLE
Mr. Alleyne Ireland, who was well qualified to form a sound judgment, wrote in 1905, after spending two months in travelling up and down the coast and in the interior people of the country," and
"
I
find myself unable to express the high opinion
I
have formed of the administration of the country without a fear that I shall lay myself open to the
With such knowledge
charge of exaggeration.
systems
administrative
the tropics as
in
gained by actual observation
of
may be
almost every part of
in
Empire except the African Colonies, I can say that in no country which I have ever visited are there to be observed so many signs of a wise and generous rule, such abundant indications of good government, as are to be seen on every hand in Sarawak." Again, in the same book, Far Eastern the British
Mr.
Tropics,
Ireland
the country which
land
full
I
wrote
:
"
The
carry away with
impression of
me
is
and prosperity, a land
of contentment
which neither the native nor the white
pushed
that of a
man
in
has
to their logical conclusion,
his views of life
but where each has been willing to yield to the other
something of
been here a
his
tacit
extreme conviction.
There
has
understanding on both sides that
those qualities which alone, can ensure the permanence
good government in the State are the white man and not in the native of
control
remains,
therefore, in
though every opportunity natives and of benefiting
is
by
to
be found
in
and the final European hands, al;
taken of consulting the their intimate
knowledge
PREFACE
Xlll
of the country and of the
people."
praise from
critic,
and the
an experienced
words of Mr.
last
That
is
high
but not too high,
Ireland's sentence cannot
be insisted upon too urgently when dealing with Malays.
Sarawak,
In
the
which
fact
is
most
and which must command the admiration of every man, especially of those who have been striking
associated
intimately
with
administration
the
Eastern peoples and their lands,
is
of
that throughout
the long years from 1841 to the present time, the
two white Rajahs of Sarawak spent whole
lives in this
practically their
remote corner of Asia, devoting
their best energies to the prosperity
and the happiness
of their subjects, whilst taking from the country, of
which they were the absolute Rulers, only the most
modest income. That has been the admirable and unusual " stamp " of Brooke rule to live with the :
people,
make
to
their
happiness
the
first
con-
and to refuse wealth at their expense. Nothing would have been easier certainly for the present Rajah than to live at ease in some pleasant Western land, with perhaps an occasional visit to
sideration,
—
—
Sarawak, and to devote to his own use revenues which he has spent for the benefit of Sarawak and its people.
The
State
agricultural
;
natural
fill
to
to
is
many
and would have seemed most
rich in resources, mineral it
the place with Chinese or to grant
concessions to Europeans
Either of these courses
would have meant a large accession of revenue, and no one would have thought it strange had the Ruler
SARAWAK AND
xiv
ITS
PEOPLE
of the country spent whatever proportion
good
to
him on
seemed
Only the people of the
himself.
country would have suffered; but they, probably,
was perfecdy natural, and, had they thought otherwise, it would have made would have considered that
no
difference, -for
it
it
not their habit to complain
is
The Rajahs
publicly of the doings of their Rulers.
Sarawak have made
of
" the benefit of the people of the
country" the business of their lives;
all
honour to
them for their high purpose. That the tradition they have established by seventy-two years of devotion, of personal' care of the affairs of Sarawak, should be
continued and perpetuated must be the prayer of
who I
all
love Malays.
make a
It is this
:
"
final
quotation from Mr. Ireland's book.
Nothing could better serve to exhibit at
once the strength and the weakness of a despotic form of government than the present condition of
Sarawak,
for if
it
be true that the wisdom, tolerance,
and sympathy of the present Rajah have moulded the country to the extraordinary state of tranquil prosperity
which
now
it
enjoys, the
power of an unwise
or wicked ruler to throw the country back into a condition
of
barbarism
necessary corollary.
however,
must
be
The advent
in the highest
admitted
as
a
of such a ruler
is,
degree improbable."
Every one must hope that a departure from the Brooke tradition is impossible, and as the matter is wholly within the discretion of the present Rajah,
knows
better than
anyone
else
what
is
who
necessary to
PREFACE
XV
secure the objects set out by his predecessor, and
confirmed and secured by his
own
there
rule,
man would be proud
to take
up and help
petuate so great an inheritance.
When
comes, he will remember the words of the
Brooke stamp to :
" If this
it
please
God
to permit
country which shall
last after
real
to per-
the time
first
me
no
is
Any
reason to fear for the future of Sarawak.
Rajah
to give a I
am no
have lived a life which emperors might envy," and he will begin his rule with the knowledge that his predecessor spent his whole life in making more,
I
shall
good the promise of those words. F. A. S. London, 22nd September 1913
INTRODUCTION ONE EVERY He was my
has heard of Rajah husband's uncle, and
Brooke. this
is
how he became
ruler of Sarawak. one of the largest islands of the world. The Dutch occupy three parts of its territory. The
Borneo
is
North Borneo Company, a group of Englishin the north, and Sarawak, with its five hundred miles of coast-line and its fifty thousand square miles of land, is situated on Until some four hundred years ago, the north-west. at the time of Pigafetta's visit to Brunei, Borneo was British
men, have established themselves
almost unknown to Europe, but ever since then, at various
periods,
Dutch,
Portuguese,
and English
have attempted to gain a footing in the island. Dutch, however, were the most successful, for
The it
was
only in 1839 that the English obtained a firm hold of
a portion of this
much
remembered that owing
men who attempted
disputed land.
It
must be
to the murders of English-
to trade with Brunei in 1788,
and 1806, the Admiralty issued a warning as to the dangers attendant upon English merchants engag1803,
ing in commercial ventures with the Sultan of Brunei
and
his people.
About
forty years
went by without
SARAWAK AND
xvHi
ITS
PEOPLE
English people making further attempts to trade in that part of the world, until one day, in
August 1839,
James Brooke, the future white Rajah of Sarawak, appeared upon the scene, and it was due to his bold but vague designs that peace, prosperity, and just government were subsequently established in a country hitherto torn with dissension and strife. James Brooke had always felt a great interest in those lands of the Malayan Archipelago. As a very young man he had held a commission in the army of the British East India Company, and had seen active service in Burmah. He was seriously wounded during the Burmese war, invalided home, and finally resigned his commission. He then made two voyages to the Strait Settlements and to China, and it is to
be supposed that
his interest in that part of the
world dates from that period of his father's
he invested in
At
life.
death, he inherited a small fortune,
which
in the purchase of
he
Archipelago.
set
in
sail
his
which
a yacht of 140 tons,
1838
for
the
Eastern
In those days, the Sultan of Brunei
owned the extreme north
of the island,
tory stretched as far as
what
now belonging
to
the
is
Rajah.
called
and
his terri-
Cape Datu,
Whilst staying at
Singapore, James Brooke heard rumours of a rebellion
by the Malays of Sarawak against their Sultan, for both the Sultan and his Brunei nobles (many of whom were of Arabic descent), in order to enrich themselves, had instituted a tyrannous and oppressive
government
against
the
people.
When
Brooke
INTRODUCTION made
arrived in Sarawak, he
Sultan's Viceroy, Rajah
xix
the acquaintance of the
Muda
Hassim, who was an
uncle of the Sultan of Brunei, and the acknowledged
Hence his title Rajah Muda and Sultan Muda, meaning heir - apparent. They made friends, when the Malay Governor confided in Brooke and besought his help in quelling the heir to the Sultanate.
Brooke consented, and the
rebellion.
The
soon at an end.
rebels,
back under the yoke of
their
oppressors, implored Brooke to
and Governor.
request,
was proclaimed Rajah
was fall
former tyrants and
become and
in
Rajah
their
Muda Hassim was
Rajah
able to the people's
rebellion
determined not to
favour-
1841 Brooke
Sarawak amidst the repopulation. Rajah Muda Hassim, as representative of the Sultan, signed a document resigning his title and authority to the Englishman, and in 1842 Brooke, being desirous of obtaining
joicing of
of
its
from the Sultan himself an additional proof of his goodwill the
towards his position
potentate
firmed his
On
in
title
Brunei,
when
the
Sultan
con-
as independent Rajah of Sarawak.
the other hand,
Rajah
Sarawak, visited
in
is
interesting to realize that
Muda Hassim was
never in any sense Rajah
it
of Sarawak, that country then not being a Raj, but a
simple province misruled by Brunei Governors
never bore the
Muda Hassim
title
of Rajah,
for
after
all
who
Rajah
did not abdicate in favour of Brooke,
was the people themselves who insisted on Sarawak being independent of the Sultan's and his
but
it
SARAWAK AND
XX
emissaries' authority,
PEOPLE
ITS
and chose Brooke as
their
own
Rajah, thus regaining their former independence.
When wak
James Brooke
first
became Rajah of Sara-
84 1, the area of his country known as Sarawak proper comprised some seven thousand in
1
square miles in extent.
might be as well
It
manner
in
which the
to give a short account of the first
white ruler of Sarawak
The Sarawak Malay
organized his Government. nobles, the
Datus or
governed the State
chiefs that
James Brooke's accession to power, and who had been superseded and driven into rebellion by the Brunei nobles, the Sultan's emissaries, were recalled by James Brooke and chosen to help in carrying out When in the course of years these his Government. nobles died, their sons or members of the same aristobefore
cratic families (but
always with the approval of the
people) were, and are, chosen to
The
first
of these chiefs
who
the vacant places.
fill
helped to inaugurate
James Brooke's Government was a Malay gentleman called Datu Patinggi AH, who was a direct descendant of Rajah Jarum, the
and
establish
gallant
founder of
who
Sarawak,
led
people
his
against
the oppression of Brunei, and found death by the side of his
and
Bandar, years,
James Brooke, sword his
people's
Bua
Haji
cause.
in hand, fighting for
His son,
Hassan, held
and died a few years ago
one hundred years of age. upright
man
;
intelligent
He and
office
in
the for
Datu sixty
Kuching, over
was a brave and wide - minded in .
'
INTRODUCTION Council, sons,
and a true
and of mine.
have dedicated wish
were
it
charming,
xxi
friend of the Rajah's, of our
Datu
Isa,
to
this book,
was
his wife,
in
my power
sympathetic
whose menfiory I and I only
personality,
and
understood how, in her blameless useful a high standard of
make
life,
amongst the
conduct
women of Kuching. The present Datu
words her
to put into
it
she set
Malay
Muhammad Kasim, Muhammad Ali, are the
Bandar,
and the Datu Imaum, Haji sons of the late Datu Bandar and of Datu Isa. These four great Malay officials are members of the
Supreme Council and assistant judges of the Supreme The Datu Bandar, premier Datu and Court. Malay magistrate, is president of the Muhammadan Probate Divorce Court. The Datu Imaum is the head
religious
of
the
Muhammadan community.
The Datu Tumanggong's
title,
signifying that
Commander-in-Chief or fighting Datu,
is
of
no longer
employed in that capacity, but ranks next to the Bandar as peaceful member of the Council,
Datu Hakim
whilst the
is
adviser in
Muhammadan
law.
Now
that a very short account has been given
as to the principal
must turn back
to the year
thread of our story. rivers
outside
Malayan
At
officials in
Sarawak, we
1841 and take up the
more northern infested by pirates,
that time the
Sarawak were
who, under the leadership of Brunei nobles, devastated The first Rajah, backed by his loyal adjacent lands.
SARAWAK AND
xxil
subjects,
made
many
ITS
PEOPLE
expeditions
against
these
In 1849, Her Majesty's ship Dido, commanded by Sir Harry Keppel, came to his aid, when the combined forces of Malays and Dyaks, strengthened by the crew of Her Majesty's ship, criminal tribes.
completely scoured out the nests of the redoubtable piratical
hordes,
and
an
end
devastation in those regions.
was
put
Little
by
to little
their
the
and strength of the white Rajah's government became acknowledged, even by the ci-devant miscreants themselves, and the inhabitants of the more northern rivers, realizing that after all honesty is the best policy, willingly laid down their arms and
authority
clamoured to be enrolled
in the territory of the great
white chief
Being monarch of tradition,
all
he surveyed, unfettered by
and owning no obedience
to the red-tapeism
of Europe, Rajah Brooke laid the foundations of one of the most original and, so far as justice goes, successful
Governments that perhaps has ever been known, its most salient feature being that from its very beginning the natives of the place were represented by their own people, and had the right to vote for and against any law that was made by their Government. Brooke established principal rivers,
and
stations in
in
the mouths of the
each of these stations were
appointed one or two English
officials to
the white ruler.
wood
in
Billian or iron
forts
represent
were
built
each of these settlements, and a small force of
Malays, armed with muskets and small cannons, was
INTRODUCTION
xxiii
placed there in order to enforce obedience to the
new Government and to inspire confidence supporters. The duty of these officials, called
laws of the in its
Governors or Residents, was
to protect the people
from the tyranny of some of the higher classes of Malays, to prevent head-hunting, and to discourage
The co-operation of local chiefs and was elicited to help in this good work, and headmen one cannot repeat too often that such native coadjutors have been the mainstay of the Rajah's Government, and so they must always remain. The present Rajah and his uncle have strictly adhered disorder.
to
excellent
this
policy
of associating the
natives
James Brooke respecting and maintaining
with the government of their country.
began
his
law codes
in
whatever was not positively detrimental
in the
laws
and customs as he found them. Instead of imposing European made laws upon the people, Muhammadan law and custom has been maintained whenever
it
affects
Muhammadanism.
No
favouritism
and any white man infringing the laws of the country would be treated in exactly the same way as would be the natives of the soil. In the Sarawak Gazette of 1872, the present Rajah at the "A beginning of his reign wrote these words Government such as that of Sarawak may start from things as we find them, putting its veto on what is dangerous or unjust, and supporting what is
allowed,
:
is
fair
and
and equitable
letting
in
system and
the
usages of the natives,
legislation
wait upon
oc-
SARAWAK AND
xxiv
ITS
PEOPLE
When new
casion.
wants are felt, it examines and them by measures rather made on the
provides for
spot than imported from abroad
;
and, to ensure that
these shall not be contrary to native customs, the
consent of the people
The
are put in force. of class
made
is
gained for them before they
is
white man's so-called privilege
little of,
and the
government
rulers of
are framed with greater care for the interests of the
who
majority
are not Europeans, than for those of
the minority of superior race."
The Supreme
Council consists
of
four
Malay
together with three or four of the principal
officials,
European
officers
;
the Rajah presides over
all its
de-
The Malay members of the Council always
liberations.
take an active and prominent part in
decisions.
its
Every three years a State Council meets
Kuching,
at
under the presidency of the Rajah, consisting of the
members
Supreme
of the
Council,
the
European
Residents in charge of the more important
and
the principal
native
number, who come from the principality.
At
this
chiefs,
all
some seventy
meeting questions of general
the government of the
discussed
members
;
in
the important districts of
interest as to
the
districts,
country are
are informed of any recent
question relating to public
affairs,
and are
told of the
general progress achieved in the Government, or of
anything pertaining to the State since the Council's last
meeting.
Each member
is
formally sworn in and
takes an oath of loyalty to the Rajah and his Govern-
ment.
It
would be very tempting to anyone who
is
INTRODUCTION as interested as to give
more
I
am
xxv
in the prosperity of the country
details regarding the incessant
required in order that each law as
it
work
made should
is
be satisfactory and meet the requirements of the
whole of the Sarawak people
;
suffice
it
to say that
the Rajah, his English officers, and his Malay chiefs are
indefatigable
in
their
endeavours
promote
to
trade and commerce, peace and prosperity amongst
the people. to
I
have only a short space
which
in
speak of these more important matters, and
can only hope that the very slight sketch given in the limited space at
my
I
I
have
disposal of the past
and present history of Sarawak may induce those
whom
it
interests to seek further information in the
many volumes subject.
It
that have already been written
on the
might perhaps not be amiss to mention
the two last books published on Sarawak, these being
The White Rajahs of Sarawak, by Messrs. Bampfylde and Baring-Gould, and The Pagan Tribes of Borneo, by those two well-known English scientists It must be reDr. Hose and Mr. McDougall. membered that Mr. Bampfylde and Dr. Hose
—
occupied for years very important posts in the Rajah's
Government, and on that account their experience of the people and the country must be invaluable.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
.......
H.H. The Rajah of Sarawak
.
.
.
.
*
The Author From a
The
Painting by Mrs.
FACING PAGE
Part of Datu Bay, near Santubong
Datu
in
Isa
the Astana
and her Granddaughters
Sea-Dyaks in
Sea-Dyak
Europe
.....
1
.
....
War Dress
Woman weaving
.
a Cotton Petticoat
Mail Steamers' Wharf and Trading Vessels at Anchor near Embankment in Kuching Bazaar
..... .
Tuan Muda of Sarawak H.H. The Rajah
Muda
2
Alfred Sotheby
Rajah's Arrival at Astana, after a Visit to
A Room
Frontispiece
of Sarawak
14
23
26 34 58
62
.
....... ...... .....
Tuan Bungsu of Sarawak with Brooke
8
his little Son, Jimmie
The Daiang Muda H.H.
The Ranee Muda
..... ......
102
The Daiang Bungsu The Author and Kuching
Ima, in
the Morning Room at Astana,
Sun setting behind the Mountain of Matang xxvl
136 ISO
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
xxvii
.......
FACING PAGE
Daiang Sahada, Daiang Lehut, Mrs. Maxwell, and the
Author Verandah
in
158
Daiang Sahada's House at Kuching
Daiang Lehut, Daiang Sahada's Daughter
164 166
.
Inchi Bakar, School Master, Kuching
174
Malay Boy striking Fire from Dry Tinder
200
Salleh, a Tanjong Chief, playing on the Nose Flute,
with two Tanjong Attendants
.... ....
Hut containing Eatables to refresh the God NESS,
Batang Lupar River
Panau, a Sea-Dyak Chief
254
.
of Sick 260 282
An Encampment up the Batang Lupar River
..... ........
Bachelor House at Munggo during our Stay
Map
288
Babi, Bertram's Residence 298
Front Cover
MY
LIFE IN
SARAWAK
CHAPTER
WHEN
I
remember Sarawak, its remoteness, the dreamy loveliness of its landscape, the I
childlike confidence its people rulers,
I
to leave
English
long to take the it
again.
How
it
first
have
ship back to
in their
it,
never
happened that as a young
came into intimate contact with the I Sarawak is as follows: In 1868, on the
girl
people of
death of the
English Rajah of Sarawak, his
first
nephew and successor came to England and visited my mother, who was his cousin. On his return to Borneo in the early seventies, I accompanied him as his wife.
Looking over the diaries I kept in those days, they throw little light upon the new surroundings in which I found myself. I had received the limited education given to girls in that mid- Victorian period
;
had been taught music, dancing, and could speak two or three European languages but as regards the I
;
important things in of consequence to I
life,
my
these had never been thought
education.
was sea-sick almost the whole way from Mar-
SARAWAK AND
2
Singapore, so that
seilles to
various
Penang,
ITS
on
ports etc.
—
when we stayed
way out
our
was much too
I
PEOPLE
— Aden,
to take
ill
at the
Ceylon,
any
interest
remember that in Singapore we received invitations from the Governor and from the residents of the place to stay with them on our way to Sarawak but I felt ill, and the Rajah and I thought it However, we best to take up our quarters at an hotel. dined with the Governor and his wife. Sir Harry and Lady Ord, and I do not think I had ever met kinder people. The Chief Justice and his wife. Sir Benson and Lady Maxwell, were also charming to us, asking us to spend a day with them at their country house This we did, and it was all delightnear Singapore. ful and lovely, barring the fact that I met none of them.
in
I
;
the Singapore natives on these occasions.
was
It
fruits
at
Singapore that
tasted tropical
first
I
—mangoes, mangosteens, a
fruit called
the sour-
sop, tasting like cotton wool dipped in vinegar
and sugar also many other kinds all of which, under the distempered state of my mind, owing to the
—
;
journey,
I
delights of I
thought positively repulsive. first
impressions in the tropics,
did not share in those feelings.
the
damp clammy
and
I
in
feel
then thought that
I
As I
to the
must say
hated the heat,
of those equatorial regions, I
should never find happiness
such countries. After a few days spent in Singapore,
wooden gunboat
of 250 tons,
we embarked
She was a and her admirers had
in the Rajah's yacht, the Heartsease.
THE AUTHOR FROM A PAINTING BY MRS. ALFKED SOTHEBY
SARAWAK AND me
told
ITS
PEOPLE
3
she was as lively as a duck in the water.
This behaviour on her part was exceedingly annoying to
me
during the passage to Kuching, a journey
which took two days.
had
my
It
was on board the Heartsexperience of cockroaches
ease that
I
and
and these kept me
rats,
terror at night.
only
At
much
first
in
a perpetual state of
Cockroaches are
larger, flatter,
like black beetles,
and tawny brown
in colour.
the approach of rain they are particularly lively,
and as
rain falls daily in this region, their habits are
offensive to
great
human
beings.
and
distances,
alight
They on
fly
or spring from
their
victims.
I
remember how they startled me by jumping on to my face, arms and hands, as I lay in my bunk trying to get to sleep.
The
tiny prick of their spiky, spindly
was a hateful experience. Every one must be familiar with
legs
rats
floor of
my
cabin,
less
were discon-
at a distance, but the Heartsease's rats
certingly friendly.
more or
They glided, up and down the sometimes scratching at my pillow,
which did not add to was on the It
my
comfort.
third
morning
after
leaving
I suddenly felt the ship moving in This encouraged me to waters. smooth absolutely crawl up on deck, and look around me at the scenery. The tide It was the most beautiful I had ever seen. was on the turn, and the morning mist was still
Singapore, that
hanging about the watery forests on the banks arrd about the high mountains of the interior, and as it swept across
th,e river it
brought with
it
that curious.
SARAWAK AND
4
indefinable
sweet,
smell,
PEOPLE
ITS
half-aromatic
and
half-
making one think unaccountably of malaria. remember that I felt very cold, for everything I could see the touched was dripping with dew.
sickly, I I
high
mountain of Santubong, a great green
rising almost out of the water to
cliff
a height of about
summit with At the foot of the mountain was luxuriant forests. a great expanse of sand, over which enormous brown boulders were scattered, as though giants had been three
thousand
disturbed at a
feet,
game
covered
to
its
At
of ninepins.
the back of
grew groves of Casuarina trees (the natives call them "talking trees," from the sound they make when a breeze stirs their lace-like the sandy shore
branches), looking as though the slightest puff might
away in clouds of dark green smoke. Brown huts, made of dried palm leaves and
blow them built
on
all
poles, dotted the beach,
tethered to the shore held
little
ands mall canoes
brown naked
playing and baling out the water.
washing clothes on clothed in one
long,
children,
Women
were
They were
the river-banks. clinging garment,
and
folded
tucked under their armpits, and their straight, long, black hair was drawn into huge knots at the nape of their necks.
All this
I
people were too far off for features,
and the incoming
saw as
in
a vision
;
the
me
to distinguish their
tide
was carrying us up
the river at a swift pace.
on our way up, we met Chinamen the stern of swift, small, narrow canoes,
Here and standing in
there,
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
S
propelling their boats gondolier fashion, with cargoes of fish for the
and
sorts
all
We passed
Kuching market.
boats of
from the small sampan scooped
sizes,
out of a single tree trunk, with
solitary paddler,
its
to the larger house-boats belonging to Malays, filled
women and
with
These
children.
wisre roofed in to
shelter their inmates from the rain or sun,
by old men
usually propelled
sitting
and were the
in
bows and
cross-legged, wearing dirty white cotton drawers
jauntily placed conical hats, which sometimes allowed
the folds of turbans to be seen, these showing that
My
the wearers had been to Mecca.
attracted by one very small canoe, for
A
scarf.
tiny
boy,
perfectly
saw, sitting
I
woman huddled up
amidships, an old
naked,
was
attention
a cotton
in
was bravely
paddling her along, whilst he shouted insults to his
poor old lady passenger as our steamer passed by. It
was on
morning
this
also,
that
made
I
acquaintance of the Malay crew of our yacht. all
Like
people suddenly finding themselves for the
time in the midst of an alien race, sailors all
that
looked
alike.
some were young and some were
aged eighteen or
them
at
all.
They
fifty,
I
first
thought the
I
from the Rajah
elicited
I
the
old,
but whether
could see no difference in
had the same almost bridgeless thick lips, dark restless eyes, and
all
noses, wide nostrils,
the lanky hair belonging to their Mongolian race. I
at
tried to
make up
to
them
in
a feeble
them and smiled as they went
to
way
and
;
fro,
I
looked
but they
only bent double as they passed, paying no more
SARAWAK AND
6
my
attention to
my
cane
things
I
friendly
ITS
advances than they did to
They were
chair.
had ever seen
;
PEOPLE
yet
moving apparently, their work the gentlest
was told that they were as efficient as any ordinary European crew. The Rajah was accompanied on the occasion by one of his officers who had come to meet us at
did not suffer, for
As we
Singapore.
were the most
wanted
I
obtained, 1
had
three sat on deck,
silent pair
know about
to
but
questions,
I
and
I
no
I
I
thought they
had ever come
the
satisfactory
was gently made
country, and
answer
asked be
could
to understand that
better find things out for myself.
know about
across.
I
wanted
to
the mangroves which grew in the mud,
and which at high tide stand "knee-deep I wanted to know about those great flood."
in
the
forests
of nipa palms, like gigantic hearse plumes, fringing
the river-banks, and from which
I
had been told
Singapore that sixteen different and
most
products to commerce could be obtained. to
know
I
in
useful
wanted
the names of long, slender palms towering
over the other vegetation farther inland, whose glossy fronds swaying in the morning breeze looked like
green and graceful diadems.
Then
saw great things like logs of wood lying on the mud, and when these moved, and went with a sickening flop into the water, first
I
had
to find out for myself that they
crocodiles of
and mobile between
I
faces
the
my of
acquaintance.
I
were the saw the black
monkeys peering
branches
overhanging
at us
the
from water
SARAWAK AND grimacing like angry old their solitude,
and
to
my
ITS
men
PEOPLE
7
at our intrusion into
inquiry as to what kind of
monkeys they were, the usual indifferent answer was given. I remember trying to make friends with the English eliciting
from Sarawak, with the object of
officer
from him some
facts
about the place, but
questions did not meet with responses, and to
I
soon found out that
make my own
from that moment
I
should have
discoveries about the country, I
my
any very interesting
and
simply panted to understand the
Malay language and make
friends with the people
belonging to the place.
Although here and there we met a few boats coming up the river, some of the reaches were deserted and silent as the grave. I was exceedingly lonely, and felt as though I had fallen into a phantom land, in the midst of a lost and silent world. But even in such out-of-the-way places pfeople have to be fed, and I remember my first meal in Sarawak, brought to me by the Chinese steward. There were captain's biscuits, lumps of tinned butter slipping about the plate like oil, one boiled egg which had seen its best days, and the cup of Chinese tea, innocent of milk, which the Rajah and his friend seemed to enjoy, but which I thought extremely nasty.
The
quiet, matter-of-fact
way
in
which they
participated in this unpalatable meal surprised me,
but
I
thought that perhaps
upon such things as mere At last, after steaming
I,
too,
might
in time look
trifles.
in silence for
about two and
SARAWAK AND
8
PEOPLE
ITS
a half hours up the Sarawak River, ing of guns
—the
—and
on the right-hand bank on a I
hill
saw the
also
Rajah on
rounding the
leading up to Kuching, the capital,
cropped grass.
heard the boom-
salute fired to the
England
return from
I
I
last
his
reach
saw the Fort
covered with closely flagstaff
from which
was flying the Sarawak flag. On the opposite bank to where the Fort was situated stood a bungalow, rather a homely looking house, with gables and green-and-white blinds, the sight of which comforted me. I was told that this was the house of the agent of the Borneo Company, Ltd. This gives me an opportunity of acknowledging, at the outset of
book, the
and at the same time
loyal,
my
civilizing
influence which this group of Scotchmen, ipembers of
the firm, have always exerted in their dealings with
Sarawak and sight,
its
people.
we steamed on
This house once out of
past the Bazaar on the river's
edge, containing the principal shops of the town, and,
a
little
farther on, the
same
side as the Fort,
I
saw
the Astana,^ composed of three long low bungalows, roofed with
wooden
shingles, built
on brick
pillars
with a castellated tower forming the entrance.
On
the steps of the landing-stage at the bottom
many
of the garden a great
These were the
officials,
people were standing.
English and native, and the
principal merchants of the place
Rajah on
was
his return.
told that they 1
I
come
to
saw four Malay
meet the and
chiefs,
were prominent members
Malay word meaning
palace.
in the
ft.
o
Pi
H
<
2 Pi < ffi
ing for hours,
SARAWAK AND when
late in the afternoon
bank of the
left-hand
1859, that Messrs.
white
Rajah's
Sarawak
shelving
into
in
hills
is
forest
with
trees
each
all
at
They
hill
rise to
two of the
first
of the very few traitors in
man ended his days in exile now came to a series of little The formation of the water. peculiar
:
they are regular
being of the same height and
jungle
though a straight tops,
Steele,
at this spot, in
were murdered through the
somewhat
outline and,
wooded
was
It
This
history.
We
these
the
few natives, and at the instigation
Singapore.
hills
we passed Kanowit on
Fox and
of Serip Masahor, one
at
47
river.
officers,
disaffection of a
PEOPLE
ITS
their line
with a few ancient
growth,
summit,
it
might be drawn
touching the line at
a height of 750
feet.
seem
would all
its
as
along their
highest point.
There was a kind whenever farming
brushwood growing on the hills had been of recent date, and groves of wild bananas of
grew here and there. I think the long fronds of the banana plant are amongst the loveliest growing things one can
see.
When
the
plants
find
a sheltered
unmolested by gales of wind, their long
position,
leaves are tinted with the
most wonderful
colours,
and sapphires had been melted together and poured over them moreover, a certain bloom rests on them, like that seen on grapes and as though emeralds
;
plums.
I
think this beautiful effect depends on the
which the plants are growing, for I have noticed the same bloom spread over ferns growing It might in dells and shady nooks of virgin forests. light in
,
SARAWAK AND
48
PEOPLE
ITS
be as well to mention that Malays often use banana
wounds
fronds to bind up
;
their coolness, softness,
and purity possessing healing properties absent from ordinary poultices. These wild bananas thrive luxuriantly on recently abandoned paddy lands, until masses of other weeds
grow up and choke them.
possesses an excellent green, small,
farms
is
and
fibre,
The
hard.
its
fruit
The
plant
being bright
look of such deserted
exceedingly pathetic as they stretch along
the banks of rivers or climb the sides of steep
Here and
there are trees, once lofty and magnificent,
turned
partially
hills.
to
tinder,
charred
their
standing brown and shrivelled from
trunks
out the green
Sometimes they become draped with I remember one such charred parasites and creepers. skeleton, over whose shrivelled remains the bright
vegetation.
yellow blossoms of the allamanda flung a curtain of
green and gold.
As we proceeded up the river, I remember noticing men in boats fishing inside little creeks, who, I was were Sea Dyaks or Kanowits.
These little creeks were barred across from bank to bank with
told,
bamboo
palisades to prevent the egress of fish into
the main
streams had been^ poisoned
river, for the
with a root called tuba, a method of fishing prevalent
all
over Borneo.
This root
pestles, its juice extracted,
at low tide, rise
to
the
when
is
and thrown become
the fishes
surface,
difficulty in netting or
so
that
pounded with into the river stupefied,
the natives find
spearing them.
and no
These people
SARAWAK AND were drawing up nets as
of fish as
when they saw
their wont,
is
full
PEOPLE
ITS
we
49
passed, but,
the vessel and the
Rajah's flag flying at the main, they shouted to us,
we had come from and
excitedly inquiring where
where we were going. about me, and, as
from
suddenly appeared
on the deck looking
sat
thought, taking most things
I
when apparently
I
of
full
whom knew
let in for
The Rajah and Mr.
with the Rajah.
a
in,
boat
Dyaks under our com-
panion ladder, clamouring to be of
nowhere
of
out
every one in the
a few words
Skelton (both could dis-
district),
tinguish whether the people were friends or enemies.
When
friends, the
ladder
let
engine was stopped, the companion
down, and the chiefs came solemnly on
board, after our wire netting had been opened to
The
allow them to enter.
mained where they were,
followers re-
chieftains'
their canoes drifting astern
of our vessel, and were towed up the river while the chiefs held conversation with the Rajah.
Before
we
got to the end of our journey, our ship was towing
along a
little
of
flotilla
dusky
canoes
filled
was our
destination,
with
warriors.
A place called Ngmah was a Fort
built
beneath the
on the top of a for
hill.
We
river,
against the freshet and
had taken us two days to accomplish
sufficed to float us
Then
our usual
fortnight 4
life
anchored
a night and then returned to
Our journey up
Sibu. tide,
hill
where
;
ten hours
back to our headquarters at Sibu, at
Sibu began again
— the breakfasts, the
little
for
another
bunches of flowers,
;
SARAWAK AND
so
and the walks
at sunset
round the settlement
On
the Rajah went up river again. did not take
Low
and Mr.
me
PEOPLE
ITS
with him, but he
to look after
The Rajah had
me
left
Mr. Skelton
in the Fort.
when one was awakened
not been gone a week, I
by the noise of two muskets being I
he
this occasion
morning, just as day was breaking,
Fort.
— when
my
got out of
fired
from the
mosquito curtains, just as
I
and rushed met Mr. Skelton on his way
was, tied a sarong over 'my nightgown,
out of the room. to
me
warn
I
that
in
the
semi-darkness preceding
dawn, the Sikhs on the look out had noticed what
seemed river.
to
be two long
They had
Dyak
boats floating
not answered
from the Fort, and,
fresh'
to
down
the
the challenge
from the previous attack,
Mr. Skelton imagined another disturbance was im-
My
minent. fortmen,
room had
to
be given up to two
who were posted with armed muskets
to
defend that portion of the building, and Mr. Skelton,
Mr. Low, and myself congregated
in the sitting-room.
was an exciting time, for we all thought that at any moment we should hear the yell of the Dyaks rushing up to attack us. I recollect so well Mr. Skelton, fussy and excited, fearing I should be but I was really rather enjoying all frightened It
:
this
commotion, never thinking
should be
sitting
it
strange that
together in our night garments
indeed, that fact never entered our heads at
suggested to Mr. Skelton, as
how
to
we
manage a musket,
that
I
I
did not then
should
sit
all.
I
know
behind the
SARAWAK AND cottage piano as
I
would serve
it
PEOPLE
ITS
had brought with for
me
51
from Kuching,
a rampart against poisoned art-ows
way
or spears that might find their
Mr. Skelton agreed, and
I
ignominiously took
We
post behind the piano.
into the Fort.
were
on the look
all
Daybreak
our nerves strained to the utmost.
out,
appeared and we could see nothing happened.
still
all
my
round the Fort, but
hardly like to confess that
I
Every five minutes, Mr. some ham which he had just procured from England, and some sodawater, evidently thinking that these would have a soothing effect on my nerves We waited and waited, and at last I thought I might just as well Then a most delightful incident go back to bed. occurred. Our Chinese cook, whom we had brought from Kuching, anxious to show his zeal and valour, I
was rather disappointed.
Skelton invited
me
to partake of
!
offered Mr. Skelton to take his post at
allowed him to do into
Of
carving knife.
large
his
so, and,
my mosquito net
my
door with
Mr.
course
thus guarded,
and had an hour's
Skelton I
sleep.
turned
When
awakened the sun was shining, and all fear of the It is a well-known thing that attack had passed. Dyaks always choose the hour just before dawn to I think Mr. Skelton was rather r^id any settlement. I
annoyed
at his mistake.
When vexed it
at
the Rajah returned from his
what had taken
place, for
possible that another tribe of
trip,
he was
he did not think
Dyaks up
the Rejang
River would have dared another attack so soon after
SARAWAK AND
52
Moreover,
the last one. sible
for
them
to
it
ITS
PEOPLE
would have been impos-
have done
so,
as
his
gunboat
Heartsease, with himself on board, was at the time
Rejang River. I fancy the real truth of the matter was, that Mr. Skelton and his fortmen had become over-anxious, and I imagine my presence on the occasion also had something to do with it. It was whispered afterwards that two enormous tree trunks, borne down past the Fort by the current (in the semi-darkness just before stationed in the higher reaches of the
dawn when distance),
difficult to
I
must again
tame manner
fizzed out.
distinguish objects at a
were the harmless factors of
Nevertheless, at the
is
it
in
repeat,
I
this
scare.
was disappointed
which the expected attack
CHAPTER
THE
VII
Rejang River deserves a few words of
explanation.
commerce
It is
a magnificent roadway to
in the interior,
and once the head-
hunting propensities of the tribes
hood are
abolished,
it
of activity and trade.
in
its
neighbour-
promises to be a great centre
A
large
number of Kayans
and Kenyahs are to be found in its tributaries. These people are, next to the Sea Dyaks, the most important and advanced of the tribes of Sarawak,
and are scattered about the country in various rivers. They have attained a fairly high degree of civilization, whilst other tribes consist of primitive people called
These do not cultivate on the wild fruits and game they
Punans, Ukits, and Bukitans. land,
but
rely
find in the forests.
Curiously enough, however, as
though to show they have descended from a higher civilization,
in use
we
call
they are able to manufacture the weapon
—
amongst so many Bornean tribes that thing the blow-pipe.^ The Punans make their
temporary homes under leafy caves,
or
in
shelters, in limestone
the buttresses of
huge
trees,
1 Nowadays Punans, Bukitans, and most of the Ukits and do some farming.
live in
called houses
SARAWAK AND
54
Tapangs, which
When
afford
ITS
PEOPLE
shelter
whole
to
of their fruits and game, they wander off to
where
spot,
families.
they have exhausted the surrounding localities
Notwithstanding
their life begins afresh.
their wild state, these people
some other
weave
mats
beautiful
and baskets from palms gathered in the vicinity. They ornament such articles with patterns which must have been handed down to them from time immemorial
—another
proof of their probable degradation
A favourite pattern
from a higher form of existence. of theirs
is
the
"
Greek
key
very shy, and might perhaps malice
—
kill
"
They
pattern.
—from
fear,
are
but not from
a stranger wandering near their settle-
ments. After remaining some weeks in the Rejang, and when peace had been restored amongst the disturbed people, who began to resume work on their the
farms, hosts,
Rajah and
I
Sibu and our kind
left
Mr. Skelton and Mr. Low, for a
Batang Lupar.
We
trip
to the
embarked once more on the
Heartsease, and steamed
down the
left-hand branch of
the Rejang, when, on leaving the mouth of the river,
we
due south, passing the mouths of the Kalakah and Saribas Rivers. We had, alas for me, about four hours of sea to negotiate before we found steered
smooth water again, so that
The
the coast.
hateful swell drove after
me
to the cabin.
we had passed over
Lupar.
I
did not see
I
much
of
sea was supposed to be calm, but a I
went on deck
the bar of the Batang
could not believe
it
to
be a river
;
the
SARAWAK AND shores were so far
off,
ITS
PEOPLE
55
with a stretch of four miles
of water between them, and this width continued
down
all
the straight reach as far as Lingga.
Lingga was a desolate place. Its Fort was built on a mud-bank. A small Malay village, its houses built on stilts, lined the banks, and were surrounded by cocoa-nut palms, which palms are said
made
home
this place his
He
thence in 1854. district
The
brackish water.
to flourish in
for
many The old pirate many crimes,
about ten years, whence he led
for
who committed so many people, and prevented peace from
Rentap,
murdered so settling
Rajah
resided in this Batang Lupar
punitive expeditions into the interior. chief,
present
one year, moving from
on the
creant tribe
land,
in
was entrenched with
his mis-
neighbouring mountains, and was
repeatedly attacked by the present Rajah,
who
finally
dislodged him from his fastnesses, and rendered him
harmless by his
many
defeats.
It
was from the
banks of the Batang Lupar River that the Rajah's friendly
Dyaks,
sometimes
fourteen thousand men,
said never to
have
to
were gathered together to
follow their white chief in his
the pirate's Fort.
numbering twelve
many
attacks against
For years the present Rajah slept securely
is
on account of the
incessant alarms and attacks on innocent people by this inveterate
head-hunting pirate, who, in spite of a
very advanced age, managed to work so much havoc in the
neighbourhood.
We did
not land at Lingga on this occasion, but
5
SARAWAK AND
6
went on
PEOPLE
ITS
to a settlement near a place called Banting,
where the Society
for the Propagation of the
had charge dver a thriving community
Gospel
of Christians,
Bishop Chambers, whose name can never be forgotten in
the annals of Sarawak, here began his
civilization as a missionary.
He
of the present Rajah, and for
many
men,
in their different
work of
was a great friend years, these two
ways, worked unremittingly
good of the natives. This missionary settlement is about fifteen miles by river from Lingga, and it was here that I had my first experience of travelling for the
in a
Dyak
These
war-boat. vessels
are
comfortable
enough,
being
about seven feet wide amidships by about seventy feet in length.
us along. the canoe,
A crew, A roofed
numbering some fifty, paddled compartment in the middle of mattresses and pillows,
furnished with
and curtains the heat and glare
afforded us comfortable accommodation,
hanging from the roof kept from the river
in the
off
daytime
;
whilst the rhythmical
noise of the paddles, and occasional wild bursts of
songs from the crew helped to make the journey a pleasant one.
As the crew shipped their paddles, I saw a long Dyak house, propped on stilts about forty feet high, planted some yards from the river-bank. As this place was situated within reach of the tide and we arrived at low water, a vast expanse of mud stretched between us and dry land.
way
I
could see nothing in the
of a landing-stage to help our
way
to the house,
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
57
excepting a few poles dovetailing one another laid across the mud, supported
how
I
was
inquiries of
trestles.
wondered
I
get across, but not liking to
to
an unpleasant nature,
any emergency
better in
is
by
I
make
said nothing
;
it
to let events take their
when our
course with as little fuss as possible, so that
canoe was pushed by the side of the supported poles, I
kept
our
silent,
remember noticing
I
Dyak crew manoeuvred
deep into the mud quickly
all
walked along some
Dyak
leading to the in
and yet moving about
The Rajah six or
cleverly
our boat, plunging knee-
in their efforts,
the time.
how
led
way and
the
seven yards of the poles
village.
I
admired the way
which he kept his balance, never slipping once
during the
journey.
Dyaks helped me out
When my of the
came,
turn
boat.
My
four
progress
across the poles was not a graceful one, for
I
found
them to be as slippery as glass. My four supporters, two on each side of me, must have suffered severely, as I slid first on one side and then on the other. However, their kindly efforts prevented me from taking headers into the mud. But my troubles were not yet over.
I
saw, leaning against the house at a
steep angle, another long pole with notches cut in all
the
way up
to the door of the building.
Rajah hopping up
No
explanation was given to
me, but the Dyaks signed to I
it
saw the
this small cylindrical stairway with
the agility of a gazelle.
the same, so
I
me
that
tried to climb the pole.
had
I
It
about twenty inches in circumference, so
to do was only
it
will
be
— SARAWAK AND
S8
that
realized
PEOPLE
ITS
was a disconcerting
this
I
tried to
as a
it
a
However, matter of coprse, and
person unaccustomed to acrobatic the Rajah seemed to take
to
sight
do the same, but the
feats.
difficulty
of turning
was very trying at clasped the pole with great fervour as I went
one's feet out to the right angle first.
up,
I
and one of the Dyaks behind me took hold of my my feet on each notch with great care.
ankles, placing
A Dyak
me
my
hand and with my right I clutched the bamboo pole, and thus, with a good deal of slipping and a great deal of fright, I managed to reach the verandah of the house. An extraordinary thing happened on this visit. In every Dyak house of note and this was the in front of
held
left
—
Dyak
residence of a great
a portion of the building
women which
On
of the tribe.
were anxious that I
did.
I
this occasion, the
should
A
little
Banting
assigned entirely to the
is
visit
The room was a
simply crammed.
called
chief,
them
women
in their
room,
large one and
was
stool covered with yellow
calico and a fine Dyak mat were prepared for me, and the women and children squatted all round me
on the
floor.
pushed up
my
They took hold sleeves to see
if
of
my
my
hands and
arms were white
way up. I had with me one of the Mission all people, who acted as interpreter. He told me that the women wanted me to give them medicine to make the
their noses stand out
from their faces as mine did
they also wanted medicine to
Babies were brought to
me to
make
touch,
;
their skin white.
and
I
promised to
H <1
O O H H K 2;
o H H O U
o
SARAWAK AND send them
pills for their
ITS
PEOPLE
59
various ailments from Kuching.
The women gave me a basket they had made for me, and then showed me their mats which they make so cleverly, their hats, and their paddles
—much
in
same way English women would show their collection of fans. The conversation went on merrily, when suddenly we heard some ominous cracks underneath our feet, and before I knew where I was, the flooring had given way and the women and children, the interpreter, and I, were plunged about four feet through the floor. We hung the
in bags, as
it
were, for the mats covering the floor
were secured to the sides of the
walls,
and these
prevented us from dropping to the ground below.
The Dyak into
warriors sprang forward and helped
The women
safety.
heard such a noise
in all
screamed,
my
way was happening.
I
never
Rajah, in the
though nothing out
I
think he could see
was no great danger and
that the mats would
of the
there
The
life.
distance, sat imperturbably on, as
and
me
support
us.
When
allowed him to do
so,
the
dignity
of
the
situation
he came to where the accident
had taken place and said to me, " It is all right, You had better come the room was overcrowded. into the verandah and then everything will be quite safe." He was pleased with the manner in which I had taken
him
it
this catastrophe,
was evident that
I
and the Dyak
chiefs told
knew how
behave
to
in
emergencies.
We then
returned to our boats.
To make
a long
SARAWAK AND
6o story short,
I
ITS
PEOPLE
found the return down the notched pole
even more difficult than the going up, but
how soon one
it is
ordinary run of things, and
I
went away from Banting
much delighted with my experience Dyak house I had visited.
very
We
rejoined the Heartsease at
to Kuching,
wonderful
gets accustomed to anything out of the
in the first
Lingga and steamed
which we reached the next morning.
CHAPTER
VIII
had gone by SOME months Kuching odd
since the
first
arrival in
Europe and
and,
all
its
as
it
may seem,
ways were relegated as
were to an almost imperceptible background
The charm
memory.
my
day of
it
my
in
of the people, the wonderful
beauty of the country, the spaciousness, and the absence of anything like conventionality,
Moreover, the people were
—and
am
enchanted me.
all
my own, and every day that own
not ashamed to
—
by little I lost some of my European ideas, and became more of a mixture between a Dyak and a Malay. The extraordinary idea which English people enterpassed
tain as
I
to an insuperable bar existing
it
little
between the
my
white and coloured races, even in those days of youth, appeared to
me
to be absurd and nonsensical.
Here were these people, with hardly any ideas of the ways of Europeans, who came to me as though they were
my own
brothers and
thought some of
my ways
They must have
sisters.
curious and strange, but
instead of finding fault with them, they gave in everything.
to care for family, little
I
suppose they saw
them and consider them
way
how ready
as
members
and as the country became more
me
to I
was
of
my
familiar to me,
by little, much as when one develops photographic 6i
SARAWAK AND
62
ITS
some hitherto unperceived came out and charmed me.
plates,
acter I
wish
Kuching it
I
as
it
appeared to I
me
char-
trait in their
home
could give a description of our
How
now.
PEOPLE
then and as
delighted in those
I
in
think of
many hours
spent
on the broad verandah of our house, watching the life going on in the little town the other side of the river. have said before that at high tide the breadth of the river where it runs under the banks of our garden is as broad as the Thames at Westminster I
think
I
The
town looked so neat and fresh and prosperous under the careful jurisdiction of the Rajah and his officers, that it reminded me of a box of Bridge.
little
The
painted toys kept scrupulously clean by a child.
Bazaar runs for some distance along the banks of the
and this quarter of the town is inhabited almost by Chinese traders, with the exception of one The Chinese shops look very or two Hindoo shops. much like those in small towns on the Italian Lakes.
river,
entirely
Groceries of exotic kinds are laid out on tables near the pavement, choice.
from which purchasers make their
At the Hindoo shops you can buy
silks
from
India, sarongs from Java, tea from China, and tiles and porcelain from all parts of the world, laid out in
picturesque confusion, and overflowing into the street.
Awnings from the shops and brick archways
protect
purchasers from the sun, whilst across the road
all
kinds of boats are anchored, bringing produce from the interior of
Sarawak, from the Dutch Settlement, from
Singapore, and from adjacent islands
;
these boats are
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
63
The Chinese junks were always a delight to me, with their orange and tawny sails drying in the sun, and the large "eyes" painted picturesque in the extreme.
in the
bows
way
to enable the vessels to see their
during their journeys. Dutch schooners with their hori-
and red are to be seen, and English, French, and Siamese flags also fluttered amongst the many masts carrying the Sarazontally striped flag of blue, white,
wak
The most
colours.
important portion of the
Bazaar lay behind the wharf, where the mail steamer
was moored, then bringing mails every ten days from Singapore.
The' Chinese houses of the Bazaar are
decorated with coloured porcelains
gods and goddesses
dragons, pink lotuses,
little
grotesque attitudes,
along their
all
one sees green
;
fronts.
The
in
roofs
tiles, some of these being higher than the and having the curious Chinese termination at
are of red rest
each end, thus breaking the picturesque. hills,
line
Behind the Bazaar
and making rise
it
more
a succession of
on which are situated European bungalows
rounded by pleasant gardens
sur-
and fruit. The houses with their white walls and green and white painted blinds make a charming accessory to the background of forest trees. Churches of the different of flowers
denominations stand out prominently
in the landscape,
same privileges and freedom One sees at the hands of the Sarawak Government. the Roman Catholic and Protestant churches, Chinese temples marvellously decorated, Hindoo shrines, and for all Faiths enjoy the
Muhammadan
mosques.
Right opposite to the Palace
SARAWAK AND
64
PEOPLE
ITS
stands the gaol and court-house, the latter a broad, low building with a castellated tower at
its
The
entrance.
Malay town lies towards the west, along the banks of the river, and beyond the town stretch miles and miles of
flat forest land.
When
I
was
machinery of
in
life
Kuching,
it
seemed
to
me
that the
was moved by clockwork, the Rajah
being the most punctual
man
At
alive.
five o'clock in
the morning, just before daybreak (we must
ber that in those latitudes there
is
scarcely
remem-
any
differ-
ence in the length of days), a gun was fired from the Fort, at which signal the Rajah
jumped out of
bed.
Wishing to do the same as the Rajah, the Europeans, Malays, Dyaks, and Chinese jumped out of bed too.
One had
one came out to
At
and bathe by lamplight, and just as drink one's morning tea, the sun rose.
to dress
Kuching was fairly astir, and the Rajah and I used to go across in our boat (for there is no bridge anywhere over the river) to the landing-place below the court-house, where our horses were awaiting us. Mounting our animals was occasionally fraught with Our Syces (grooms) in Sarawak weremostly difficulty. recruited from the Buyan people of an island off Java, six o'clock,
who are
extraordinarily sympathetic in their treatment
of animals. in
For
instance,
my pony
had been bought
Labuan, chosen from out a herd of wild ponies
which roam about the plains of that more northern portion of Borneo.
The pony had never been broken
in properly, according to
our European ideas of what
a horse's perfect manners should be, and very often as
SARAWAK AND I
ITS
PEOPLE
65
approached to mount the animal (he was only about
and a
thirteen
half
hands high) he would turn round
and round. I would say to the Syce, " Try and keep him still," whereupon the Syce would reply, "He doesn't want to keep still " Therefore so long as it suited the pony to turn round and round, the Syce It generally took some turned round and round too. !
time before the pony became amenable, seize the I
moment and scramble on
when
to his
I
would
back as best
This kind of thing went on nearly every
could.
morning before
I
started for
my
ride.
In those days,
with the exception of a few paths in and out of the town^ there was only one well-made road extending
a mile and a half into the country. Up and down this road, the Rajah and I pounded on our horses for the necessary exercise which every one must for about
whether in or out of the
take,
On Palace
tropics.
coming home, we found the gateway
into the
— Malays,
Dyaks,
of
full
and Chinese
—
all
sorts of people
anxious to see the Rajah.
The Rajah
never refused to see any one, and after hearing their
them kindly with a few words The motley morning crowd always re-
complaints, he dismissed
of advice.
minded
me
of pictures in the Bible stories of
childhood, for there
flowing robes,
from head to
women
were turbaned Hajis draped
foot, youths,
in
down
the
maidens, and sometimes
jumping
path after their interviews, but whether
chieftains or beggars, Seripas or 5
my
their
dingy folds of cotton
children, crawling, walking, running, or
little
in
women
of a lower
SARAWAK AND
66 class,
there
PEOPLE
ITS
was always an innate dignity belonging
these people
;
they could not look
however much they might
try to
common
do
to
or vulgar
so.
This business over, the Rajah issued forth from the Astana with the yellow satin umbrella held over
him by the redoubtable Subu. Four Malay chiefs, dressed in flowing robes and holding their goldenknobbed sticks, accompanied him to the Court, where five days in the week the Rajah dispensed justice from 8 to 10.30, a.m. A retinue of young men and boys, who had paddled the chiefs to the Palace, followed the procession.
I
used to watch the boats
crossing the river to the landing-place,
when Subu
once again held the umbrella over the Rajah's head to the door of the Court.
when Subu,
furled,
his
miiiisters,
There, the umbrella was
the umbrella,
Rajah and view into the
the
my
disappeared from
building. I
then went to
my
rooms, where
I
usually found
some Malay women waiting to see me. On one I was sitting with two or three Malay friends having coffee in the morning, when a young Chinese girl, in a cotton sarong and Malay jacket, dashed into the room, followed by one of the Guards. Her face was covered with scratches, her arms were one mass of bruises, and round her neck was a red mark as though she had been iialf strangled. She rushed up occasion,
to me, caught hold of both
hope
in
place
I
my
knees,
and
you because you are the Rajah's
am
in is
a wicked one.
I
am
said
wife.
:
"
I
The
a servant to a
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
6l
woman who is jealous of her husband. When her husband goes out, she locks me in a room and beats, scratches, and tortures me in every possible way, because she thinks her husband looks upon me with Chinese
favour,
I
will stay
with you always,
I
will
not leave
go back to those people the woman will kill me." The girl was very pretty, with a pale yellow skin and beautiful eyes, and I could quite understand that any woman might feel jealous of such an adjunct I sent the Guard away, and told the to her household. girl she might remain in a corner of my room until the you, for
if
I
Rajah came back from the Court. Meanwhile, her employers, finding she had run away from their house, had straightway gone to the Court, where the Rajah
and an application was made for an The Rajah, order compelling the runaway to return. being told that the girl had gone to the Palace and
was then
sitting,
not knowing the rights of the story, sent some police to bring her to told that they
him over the
were below, the
water.
When
took hold of
girl
gown, and said that if she was to go across courthouse, I was to go too to protect her. with
me
at the time, the
I
was
my
to the I
had
wives of the three chief
we held a discusThey were all on my
ministers of the Rajah's Council, so sion as to
what was
to
be done.
and urged me not to let the girl accompany the I must say I felt rather police sent by the Rajah. " if our husbands " Never mind," they said nervous, make any difficulty, when they come home they shall know it. You do the same with the Rajah, and let us side,
:
SARAWAK AND
68 save the
girl if
we
ITS
Moreover, when the
possibly can.
rights of the matter are
PEOPLE
known and they
see
how
dreadful the girl looks, they too will not wish to send
the girl back to her employers, but will see the justice of our decision,"
When
from the Court, and heard the decided to keep the
girl at
came back the story, he
the Rajah
details of
Meanwhile,
the Palace.
the matter was inquired into, and the
woman who had
been so cruel was punished by having to pay a
money
who became one
to be given to the girl,
and remained with
servants,
me some
fine of
of
my
time, until
a,
kind English lady, then living in Kuching, took a fancy to ber,
and with the Rajah's permission took her
her service as lady's maid. of
victim
unjustifiable
husband, and
I
into
In course of time this
jealousy found
believe the couple are
a
Chinese
still
living in
Kuching under comfortable circumstances. A day or two after this incident, a war-boat full of Dyaks, headed by their chief, arrived in Kuching and came to the Astana to see the Rajah. If I remember rightly, these Dyaks had been, until recently, enemies of the Sarawak Government, owing to the usual failing their love of head-taking. They had come to lay their submission before their ruler, and to
—
express contrition for their misdeeds, whilst promising to
behave better
hear what
in the future.
the chief
had
ence in his private room. fifty in
were
to say,
The
The Rajah wished
to
and gave him an audi-
about number, who were not wanted at this interview,
left
chief's followers,
on the verandah, and the Rajah asked
me
to
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
69
them amused and occupied whilst he was engaged with the chief. As the Rajah and the chief keep
down
disappeared I
made
the stairway leading to the study,
signs to the warriors to follow
drawing-room, thinking
might prove of
knowing
me
into our
new
to them,
They wandered about
interest.
desultory way, and as
so
its furniture,"
in
a
could not speak to them (not
I
their language)
opened the piano and struck
I
These sounds apparently delighted made signs to them to sit on the floor
a note or two. them, and whilst
I
I
played that ordinary piece of music, the
Grunts of satisfaction and
Danse Negre, by Ascher.
noddings of heads intimated their approval of formance.
As
went
I
on,
I
my per-
noticed that the rhythm
of the music acted on them somewhat strangely.
They reminded me strings attached invisible
hands
of a
number
to their
of marionettes with
arms and
legs,
moV^ed by
Their bodies,
in time to the music.
arms, and legs jerked spasmodically, and before realized
what was happening, they
all
I
quite
sprang to their
and bounded about the room, yelling and waving I their arms in the throes of an animated war-dance. feet
did not
know how
to stop them,
for the safety of the furniture
about the room in
As
;
and
felt
apprehensive
and knick-knacks placed
indeed, one large palm tree standing
a pot in a corner was nearly hurled to the ground. the noise
grew
louder, the
bounds higher and
and I myself playing louder and louder, I wondered what would happen, when, in the midst of all this turmoil, the Rajah and the chief appeared in higher,
SARAWAK AND
70
The
the doorway.
PEOPLE
ITS
suddenly and
warriors stopped
looked rather sheepish
;
some scratched themselves,
while others cleared their throats, and they
down
in squatting positions
playing for a
The
little
on the
floor.
all
flopped
I
went on
while after the Rajah had
chief said something to his followers,
Rajah dismissed the company kindly.
come in. and the
We all touched
one another's hands, and the Dyaks then
filed
room and disappeared down the verandah. Rajah was amused and interested at the idea
the
out of
The of
my
rhythmic piano tune having carried the people so completely off their at the effect of
and although
my
feet, whilst I
was rather pleased
playing on such a wild audience,
realizing that
my
music does not rouse
English people to the same frenzy of enthusiasm, I
felt
that
morning
I
had gained a success that
Rubinstein himself might have envied.
CHAPTER
DESPITE
my
love for Sarawak, there were
three great drawbacks to malaria, mosquitoes,
One knows moisture
tions from
comfort, namely,
rats.
that the tropics, especially
When
where the
European con-
one remembers the abrupt
wet to dry, the
down on
beat
and
my
excessive, are trying to
is
stitutions.
IX
the
fierce rays of the
sun that
exhalation
the
vegetation,
transi-
of
myriads and myriads of leaves drawn up by the heat of the day and cast forth again in poisonous
perfumes or
evil
odours into
atmosphere,
the
all
these things must have a pernicious effect on the health of Europeans.
But we now also know that
these things obvious to our senses are not the sole
whole cause of some of the worst
or the
tropical
ailments, but that these are due to the invisible
teeming
in
earth,
air,
now established that many variations, called
is
of
my
arch-enemy,
mosquito. I first
at
my
For
and water. the
disease
it
capable of so
is
due to the sting
striped
black-and-white
malaria,
the
instance,
life
This discovery had not been made when
now
visited the tropics, but
feelings of repulsion
horrible pests feeding
I
do not wonder
whenever
on me.
I
saw these
SARAWAK AND
72
A
my
short time after
ITS
PEOPLE
arrival in the country,
I
was seized with a somewhat unusual form of malaria. Now the ordinary malaria is known by almost all Europeans who live in the tropics. The Rajah, instance,
for
suffers
from
this
ordinary
very
but
trying and sometimes dangerous kind of fever, but
the
way
me was
the pest attacked
of a kind not
My
experienced by Europeans. more prevalent amongst the natives.
often
Its
was symptoms
kind
are disconcerting to your friends, for you feel very
bad tempered.
The palms
and
and a
feeling of
you.
These
dry,
hold
of
Then,
feel sick it
impending disaster takes
preliminaries
of a sudden,
all
of your hands get hot
more
painless.
often at sunset, you
nothing happens, but a band of iron, as
:
were, presses round your body, becoming tighter
and
tighter until
are
twisting
propped by
you imagine that
you up
inside.
pillows, for
up nor move
in
last half
fingers
You
retire
of steel bed,
to
you can neither hold yourself
any way, and there you remain
gasping for breath until the attack
it
are
an hour, or continue
is
over.
It
for half a day,
returns the next afternoon at the
same hour
attacks resembling those of angina pectoris.
may
when
—the Your
complexion turns a bright yellow and your face
is
rash. These attacks have two or three months, when life
covered with an ugly lasted off
and on
for
becomes unbearable.
You
can neither eat nor drink,
and get reduced to a shadow. Our English doctor in Sarawak, who was clever and intelligent, never
— SARAWAK understood
the
ANt) ITS PEOPLE
He
disease.
prescribed
73 leeches,
me up
with
champagne, brandy, and even port wine, with the
result
cupping-glasses,
that
all
worse.
I
became
me
home,
One morning, in
fed
made me very much
these would-be remedies
frightfully thin, so that after nearly
four years' residence in to take
and
poultices,
Sarawak,
room and
in order to recover
during the
my Malay
told
Sarawak the Rajah decided
me
first
maid,
my
years of I
health.
my residence my
ma, rushed into
that a friend of hers, living in a
house near her own, was lying at the point of death
owing well
to continuous attacks of this disease.
could
sympathize with the woman's sufferings, and
although powerless to cure myself decided to try what I
I
took with
me
I
in
such emergencies,
could do to help
a box of
pills,
I
ma's friend.
a bottle of meat
juice,
some milk and arrowroot, and, accompanied by I ma, sallied forth to the sick woman's house. I climbed up the ladder that hencoop fashion led into her room, and pushing open the dried palm-leaf door saw a woman rolling about on the floor in paroxysms of agony. Here were the symptoms I knew so well the bright yellow complexion and rash all over the face. The woman was so weak she could hardly move. I ma went up to her, and lifting her up in " Rajah Ranee, who knows of her arms said medicines that will make you well, has come to see you." The woman looked at me, and shook her had brought some marvellous head. I told her I remedies, known only to Europeans, and made her :
SARAWAK AND
74
ITS
PEOPLE
and a spoonful of Liebig. When her husband came in, I told him to give her a little milk take two
pills
every hour, and forbade her to touch or eat anything besides what carried
as
her mosquito
inside
she
had prescribed
I
and gasping
was,
morning, when
I
for
her.
bent
curtains,
visited her,
I
double
The
breath.
for
She was next
found her better,
the attack had not lasted so long as that of
for
was delighted with the result of my doctoring, and for about a fortnight went She was very to see this woman nearly every day. poor, the wife of a man who earned his living by the previous day.
selling
which he netted
fish
by doing odd jobs
The woman well whilst
As house
I
in
I
neighbouring pine-apple gardens.
finally
recovered and remained quite
stayed in Kuching.
I
was
my
sitting
I
ma
when an
writing
inside
morning-room, one day,
keep back a
told
the river and also
ih
Our
going on outside. to
in
visitor
who wished in,
mosquito
heard a fuss
was evidently trying
sentry
to let the visitor
my I
to see me.
whoever he might
I
be,
and wizened personage, without a jacket, and with garments dripping with mud and water, came in, carrying a net bag in which were a number old
of crawling things.
the bag at
my
knees, said
"
:
He
ran up to me, deposited
and catching hold of both my Rajah Ranee pitied my wife, made feet,
her well with her medicines and incantations.
shrimps are for Rajah Ranee. river.
I
I
nothing else to give.
These
caught them in the
Cook make them
SARAWAK AND into
curry."
The
75
thought this touching on the part
I
and thanked him many
of the affectionate husband, times.
PEOPLE
ITS
sight of the shrimps crawling about in
the net, however, greatly disturbed me, for
bear to see animals uncomfortable. rid of
my
grateful friend as
he had
directly
told
left,
I
I
soon as
ma
I
cannot
therefore got could, and,
I
could not do
(I
it
myself, for there was a blazing sun outside) to carry
the shrimps back to the river whence they had come. I
watched her go down the garden path, carrying
the net bag, but
I
question whether she did as
I
and her husband, Dul, enjoyed shrimp curry that evening. However, I asked no questions "What the eye does not see
told her.
I
rather think that she
—
the heart does not grieve over
woman
This story of the sick one of
for during
my
" !
has a sad ending,
Sarawak she and died. I was
absences from
was again seized with the
illness,
afterwards told that she often used to say
:
"If Rajah
Ranee were here, with her medicines, her visits, and incantations, I should get over it, but I hope no more now, and I know I must die." Until the day of her death, she never wearied extolling my medical skill, and this cure of mine led to some embarrassing situations, for whenever there were serious
man's
of
cases
begging that wife.
I
On
Malay town gave born with
illness,
the
people
would cure them as
I
one occasion, a poor
sent
for
me,
did the fisher-
woman
in the
birth to twins, both children being
hare-lips.
The morning
of their arrival.
!
SARAWAK AND
76 I
ma came
me
to
with an urgent message from the
father of the
twins,
to their house
and put the
I
was sorry
many
me
requesting
have to
to
PEOPLE
ITS
babies'
directly straight.
—unlike —
a good
but
refuse,
men and women
medical
go mouths to
my
realized
I
limitations in certain cases
Now
Nothing one can say or write can give any idea of the tortures one undergoes by the actual biting of mosquitoes. A great many for mosquitoes.
people imagine that these pests only begin to torment
one at sunset.
This
is
most pernicious
me I
so
had
house.
much
that
if
Malay
certain
white,
night
it
is
the
shelter
did
friends
a
harassed
wanted to do anything at
I
to retire behind
My
with
striped
By day and
pest.
A
a mistaken idea.
kind of black mosquito,
all,
of a mosquito
not
whether mosquitoes stung them or not
seem ;
to
care
indeed, they
seemed to enjoy the heavy slaps they administered on their faces, hands, or legs, in their attempts to kill the foe. Their methods, however, required a certain amount of skill. The results of their slaps were not pleasant to witness, and when imitating their methods of slaughter, I always had, close by, a basin containing a
and a
towel.
weak
After a
solution of carbolic acid,
the spot
bite,
the remains of the mosquito disposed
ready for another onslaught.
was washed, of, and I was
Malay women were
not so particular, for after killing a mosquito, they
would rub chiefs.
off all traces with their coloured
My
paraphernalia
of
basin,
handker-
sponge,
and
SARAWAK AND towel
made funny Allah at
them
from
elicited
ITS
PEOPLE
various
TJ
grunts.
They
noises in their throats and appealed to
my
extraordinary patience in taking these
precautions. I
now come
A
business.
to rats,
which were a
Malay woman once
watched a detachment of
rats,
more
far
me
told
serious
she had
four or five in number,
some fowls' eggs she had laid by for cake-making. She was inside her house (Malay houses are often rather dark), and in the dim light she saw trying to get at
these swift-gliding creatures hovering near the place
where the eggs were stored. She waited to see what would happen, and saw a large rat large as are
—somehow
Norwegian
or other get hold of an
°"
^^^
back, holding the
stomach with
its
four paws,
6ggr> its
rats
—
™1^
ov^'"
took hold of
its tail,
and by a it
firmly
the other rats
series of
backward jerks
in the leafy wall-
disappeared from sight.
believe this particular story
on
when
dragged their companion to a hole ing of the store, where
&^^
is
I
told with variations all
over the world.
A great many
stories
might be related of
the most extraordinary thing
I
rats,
but
ever saw regarding
was a migration which took place one I was just evening at dusk through my bedroom. of malaria, and severe attack a from getting better these animals
was lying on the bed inside my mosquito house half awake and half asleep, with my Malay Ayah sitting
against the wall in a
Suddenly,
I
corner of
my
room.
saw two or three long objects moving
SARAWAK AND
78
PEOPLE
ITS
across the middle of the room, their black bodies
My
standing out against the pale yellow matting.
room opened on one who houses
is
to
verandahs from
all
sides (as every
acquainted with the architecture of tropical understand), and
will
was easy
it
for
any
animal to climb over the outer verandah and pass
through the screened doors leading to the opposite verandah.
watched these crawling creatures, and,
I
being only half awake, wondered what they were.
At
me
first I
thought
it
was the
result of malaria,
making
when
the rats
see things which did not exist, but
were joined by others coming going out of the other,
in
in at
numbers of
one door and
tens, of twenties,
must have been hundreds, for the was one mass of moving objects, I called to the
of sixties, then floor
Ayah, who
it
sat motionless the other side of the room.
" Don't move," she said
;
" they are the rats."
too frightened not to move, and
I
I
was
screamed out to the
Rajah, who I knew was in the room next to mine. As he came in, the rats ran up one side of him,
and
remember the
I
dull
thud they made as they
jumped
off his shoulder to the floor.
hearing
my
me
screams, also appeared.
make
to
remain
still
as
little
Some fortmen, The Rajah told
noise as possible, so
to
and thousands of rats This abnormal invasion
my
room.
lasted for about ten or fifteen minutes, to diminish in
few stragglers It
had
whilst thousands
passed through
began
I
left to
number,
when
until there
follow the
the rats
were only a
main body.
appears that such migrations are well
known all
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
79
over Sarawak, and that people fear them because they are accompanied by a certain amount of danger.
by the natives
It is said
that
any one should
if
kill
one
of these rats, his companions would attack the person in
such large numbers that his body would be almost
Looking deeper
torn to pieces.
into the matter,
one
wonders why these creatures should so migrate, and where they go but this no one seems to know. ;
Their area of operations
is
a restricted one, for
appears that on this occasion
human
only
By and
I
come.
my bedroom was
the
habitation through which they went.
my
the time the last rat passed through
began
My
it
room,
had
to breathe freely again, darkness
room was
lit
by the dim
floating in a tumbler of cocoa-nut
The Ayah
lantern of glass.
light of a
oil,
wick
enclosed in a
took up her position
again and squatted by the wall without saying a word, nearly petrified with terror at what had happened.
I
pictured this mass of swiftly-moving, crafty-looking creatures,
force
under the influence of some mysterious
unknown
to ourselves,
and remembered Cuvier,
that great Frenchman, who wrote that when one
thinks of the family
life
some
is
of creatures, one
sion one
may
feel
of even the most loath-
inclined to forget
any repul-
towards them.
Rats, however, were a great trouble to me.
have recognized individual ent occasions.
make
me
friends,
don't
I
one
dreadfully.
I
will
rats visiting
me
on
I
differ-
know whether they wanted
to
never know, but they frightened
often pitied the
way
the poor crea-
SARAWAK AND
8o tures all
ITS
PEOPLE
were trapped, poisoned, and
killed,
when
after
they were only trying to keep their place in the
world, just as
On
we
do.
another occasion,
I
was
asleep
fast
when
I
I opened my on my arm. I shook it Being in my mosquito off, and it fell to the ground. house, I was curious to discover how the rat had got
woke up
feeling a sort of nip.
and saw a large
in,
rat sitting
and lighting a
candle, found that
hole through the muslin to get at
on a table
As
for
me
the disgust
I
when
felt
nowadays,
my
I
had gnawed a
some food placed
I
it,
was
these rat visitations invariill,
so perhaps
towards these creatures.
ing on the matter
my
it
to eat during the night.
luck would have
ably took place
got over
eyes
many
times since,
loathing for rats, and
I I
it
magnified
But think-
have largely
do not think
should mind their migrating through
room, because
I
have become more familiar with
animals and their ways.
CHAPTER X
THERE
are certain animals in Sarawak, very
mentioned by
little
travellers,
which run up and
dojjvn the
They
the tropics.
with which
These are the
are always surrounded.
walls of
all
are light grey-green
we
lizards
houses in in
colour,
make a funny natives call
little noise, and on this account the them chik-chak. They have the peculiar
and rather disagreeable property of shedding their once or twice they have dropped these appendtails ages on to my head as they ran to and fro on the ;
ceiling.
It
sometimes happens that
if
a picture or a
piece of furniture standing against a wall
moved,
is
a very large black chik-chak, about twice the size of
an ordinary chik-chak, shelters.
I
will
come out from behind these
have noticed that a great many rooms are
inhabited by one of these black chik-chak ensconced
behind such safe
same
and these giants of the
retreats,
are
species
called
by
Malays, " Rajah chi-
chak."
One might
also
make remarks
of an uncompli-
mentary nature about centipedes and scorpions, but I
know very
little
they are insects. noon,
when
about these formidable insects I
—
if
only remember on a certain after-
getting up from
my
usual siesta,
I
saw on
SARAWAK AND
82
the muslin walls of
my
ITS
PEOPLE
mosquito house a large black I
called the
as an
enormous
thing looking like a miniature lobster.
who
Rajah,
at once recognized
He
scorpion.
it
took hold of a spear leaning against
knowing the awful
effects
the wall, so as to
kill
of
could never have believed what a
its
sting.
I
thing
difficult
is
it
well
it,
apparently so thick that it
its
a scorpion.
to kill
death-blow.
takes a long time to give
it
hate seeing
I
(although on this occasion sary), so
I
it
Needless to say,
rushed out of the room.
snakes,
for
I
They
against them.
one can possibly
see,
am
anything killed
was absolutely neces-
the Rajah ultimately dispatched
As
Its shell is
it.
not going to say a word
are the
most beautiful creatures
and
my
in
experience they are
not nearly so deadly or so dangerous as people seem to think.
The most deadly snake
much- feared comes from is
hamadryad. its
very virtues.
Its
in
Sarawak
is
the
dangerous character
Whenever a hamadryad
laying her eggs, her mate looks after her safety,
and resents the presence of any human being within yards of where she has her nest. One afternoon, one of our Malay servants came screaming up the steps leading from the garden to our verandah, closely followed by one of these hamadryads, and had not a Guard seen her danger and killed the snake, she must have been dead in three or four seconds. Although beasts of prey, such as etc.,
are
unknown
reptile in the
in
country
tigers, panthers,
Sarawak, the most dangerous is
without doubt the crocodile.
SARAWAK AND I
do not think that any
human
the loss to
life
or has
caused by these creatures in are numerous
destructive
is
powers of these
remember when we were
I
we heard
one of the
victims
every one living in the country has known,
witnessed, the
creatures.
evening,
83
have been taken of
statistics
Sarawak, but that their certain, for
PEOPLE
ITS
at dinner
one
the most terrible commotion in
streams running around our garden.
little
They came from
a
man and from
the
women
folk
we sent to inquire the cause. We the man had gone to bathe in the creek
of his house, and
were told that
near his house, and had been seized by a crocodile.
The man had
laid hold of the log
which served as
a landing-stage, and the crocodile had managed to
He was taken to his house, tear off one of his legs. and although our English doctor did all he could for him, he died the next morning. I have often, in my excursions up and down the in our small river boat by these and generally the boat boys were the first to see the tiny conical roofs above their eyes the only portion to be seen above the water and as river,
been followed
reptiles,
—
these that
move
experience
is
not
seldom that the a canoe capable
The danger
you conclude
swiftly towards the boat,
you are being followed by a a pleasant
reptile is powerful
crocodile.
although
enough
The it
is
to upset
of carrying six or seven people.
to the inhabitants of
fact that they
one,
—
Sarawak
go about from one house
lies in
to another
the
on
the river- banks in very small canoes, which only hold
SARAWAK AND
84
ITS
PEOPLE
Sometimes the canoe is so small you can hardly see its wooden sides, and its solitary occupant appears as though he were sitting on the water, Both men and women are paddling himself along. very skilful in the management of any craft on the one person.
waters of these
rivers,
and despite the
fact that croco-
knock the boats in the air, and seize the occupants as they fall back into the river, paddle in hand, the people seem quite diles often with a
swish of their
tails
indifferent to the risks they run In these small canoes.
A great
many
as civilized as
on the in
river,
length,
it is
years ago, before Kuching became
now, and when
an enormous
was the
it
had few steamers
some twenty
feet
neighbourhood
for
crocodile,
terror of the
months during the north-east monsoon of the country. Our Malay quartermaster on board the Heartsease was seized by this monster as he was leaving the Rajah's yacht three or four
—the
to his
go
rainy season
to his house, a
little
canoe.
It
few yards from the bank,
was
seized him, the canoe being found
morning.
in
at night that the crocodile
empty the next
Although no one had actually witnessed it was certain the poor man had been
the calamity,
taken by the monster.
This was his
others followed in quick succession.
victim, but
first
The
crocodile
could be seen patrolling the river daily, but difficult to
it is
very
At length
catch or shoot such a creature.
the Rajah, becoming anxious at the turn affairs were taking,
issued a proclamation
offering a
reward to any one who should succeed
handsome
in catching
SARAWAK AND the
manned by twenty
Sarawak reading
colours,
The
as possible.
Subu, bearing the Sarawak boat,
PEOPLE
85
This proclamation was made with
crocodile.
much importance
as
ITS
flag,
executioner,
was given a large
paddles,
painted in the
and sent up and down the
river
proclamation at the landing-stages of
the
Malay houses. Looking from my window one morning, I saw the boat gaily decorated and looking very important on the river, with the yellow umbrella of office folded inside and the proclamation from the Rajah being read. A few yards behind the boat I imagined
I
could see, through
my
opera glasses, the
water disturbed by some huge body following
The
natives
had
noticed
this
and
too,
it.
was
it
absolutely proved that wherever the boat went up
or
down
the river, the monster followed
it,
as
if
in
derision of the proclamation.
A
great deal of etiquette had to be observed
after the capture of this crocodile.
towed a captive
the
to
place
As of
brought to
Rajah, and until
-the
was being
execution,
process to be ©bserved required that first
it
it
was
it
the
should be safely
landed in the Rajah's garden, the most compliment-
made to it: "You are a Rajah"; You must come and see your brother " " You are the light of the day'' " You are the sun and moon ary speeches were "
;
;
shining over the land,"
etc.
These
flattering
remarks
were made by the captors as they dragged the huge scaly thing to its doom, but once it was safely in the presence of the Rajah,
it
was made a target
for the
most
SARAWAK AND
86
language.
insulting
with
helpless
tied
over
its
back
its
The Malays were
out of reach of the switch of
from
PEOPLE
saw the crocodile as
I
paws
its
Rajah's garden.
ITS
it
lay
in
the
careful to
keep
as one blow
tail,
would have seriously injured anyone who
it
went too
The Rajah having
near.
passed sentence,
the reptile was dragged off to be killed by having its
head cut
off.
when human
This done, the body was opened,
remains, together with the rings and
clothes of our unfortunate quartermaster,
thus proving our surmises
a:s
to
were found,
death to be
his
correct.
and zeal after what had taken Malays who had captured the crocodile
Full of excitement place, the
considered that the deceased quartermaster's silver
which was
in
ring,
set
a diamond of the country,
should be presented to me. ing the ring between his
Therefore, Talip, hold-
thumb and
many bows and ceremonious
me
for
my
feelings
acceptance.
I
were too strong for
forefinger, with
speeches, brought
it
to
am sorry to say that my me on the occasion, and I
could not possibly touch the thing.
I
was so
sorry,
and told Talip that
I
I was grateful for such kindness, but thought the ring ought to belong to the victim's
wife or daughter.
I
sent
my
thanks for the kind
and was very glad when Talip and the ring disappeared from view. So ended the history of the great crocodile, whose doings are even now spoken of in Sarawak.
thought,
As we
are on the subject of animals,
we must not
SARAWAK AND
PEOPLE
ITS
87
forget to talk about those very delightful creatures,
A
the monkeys,
most delicious Gibbon
Sarawak, which the natives
call
the
exists
wah-wah
;
in
it is
the one which imitates the sound of running water in
Wah-wahs human beings.
are easily tamed, and
morning.
the
quickly take to
one of these
little
Datu Bandar, and
was presented with animals by Datu Isa, wife of the I
pathetic
its
little
round, beady, frightened eyes,
its
head
soft
wig of a clown,
like the
jet black face, its
grey fur
fitting its
almost as that of
the chinchilla but thicker and longer, and
black
its
arms and legs, made it a beautiful little creature. Datu Isa placed the animal in my arms, when it
me
clung to
as children do.
The
care of this
being, so helpless, so frightened, so affection, really
give
the food
it
kept but
it it
made me it
liked,
always with
full
quite miserable. I
I
me when
I
was
Like most monkeys of
its
it
and
in the house,
sensitive
taken by kind ignorance into the company of beings.
tried to
took great care of
went the way of beautiful
little
of a want of
animals
human
kind in captivity,
wah-wah developed pneumonia a few had been given to me, and died. It grief to me, and I begged my Malay friends, as kindly as I could, not to give me any more such charming and yet such sorrowful presents. The wah-wah cannot live in captivity, for it is the lack the poor
little
months after was a great
of their creatures,
own
it
natural
though they
cocoa-nut, which
food that will eat
is fatal
kills
these delicate
almost anything, even
to them.
SARAWAK AND
88
A
friend of mine, a
ITS
PEOPLE
Malay woman
living in the
Malay town near our house, possessed an Albino wah-wah. It was considered a powerful " mascotte," and it lived with her people some time. It must have died during one of my visits to England, for I never heard of it again after I left Sarawak for the first
On my
time.
return,
I
asked
my
native
women
what had happened to it, but they were very reticent in giving me news of the little creature. At " It went to another world, and we last they said would rather not talk about it any more." Another interesting animal in Sarawak is the buffalo. These animals are tiresome when they come into contact with Europeans. In fact, they friends
:
are dangerous to meet, should they be uncontrolled
by
natives.
Natives, apparently, can do what they
like
with them.
but
talk
this
to
They never
ill-treat
the animals,
them as though they were human, treatment making the beasts tame and easy to
manage.
In
one of our settlements,
near
a
where buffaloes were required to drag trucks of coal to and from the mines to the landingcoal-mine,
whence
was shipped to Kuching and Singapore, the animals were housed In stables made of palm leaves, and their keepers, who were Boyans, stayed stage,
with them.
it
In course of time, the stables became
unfit for habitation either for
man
or beast.
The
Rajah therefore ordered new stables to be built for the buffaloes and their keepers. When the new stables were finished and ready for their reception, it was
SARAWAK AND
PEOPLE
ITS
89
noticed that neither the buffaloes nor their keepers
made any use of them. The Rajah, hearing this, made inquiries, when the overseer of the coal-mine, a native
who wrote ing
him
English, sent the Rajah a dispatch inform-
that the animals were so
put out with their
new
much annoyed and
quarters that they absolutely
refused to occupy them, and therefore their keepers,
not wishing to incur the displeasure of their friends, In course
preferred to stay in the leaky dwellings.
of time the question was satisfactorily solved, for the
Rajah being of a difficulties
men
that
tactful nature,
may
or buffaloes.
arise with
usually surmounts
any of
his subjects,
;
CHAPTER
DURING Sarawak,
those
the advent of a still
Looking back
more strongly the
way
for their chief.
I
cannot help remember-
in
which the people took
to that time,
ing with pleasure the
stay in
and twin
little girl
and devotion of the people
affection
my
four years of
first
boys served to show
my
XI
children to their hearts
;
the funny
little
jingling
amuse them when they were quite babies the solicitude they showed for their health the many times they invited them to their houses, when I felt that they were even safer in their keeping
toys they
made
to
;
than in
my
own.
All this often returns to
more of a Malay than and makes me One sad incident I must mention, feel
contradict the all
mind,
ever. if
only to
Muhammadans
idea that
are
and incapable of sympathy towards the
fanatics
feelings
religious
creed.
common
my
of
those
who
are outside
their
Once, when returning from a journey with
met with a bad accident. the hold of a steamer, which resulted
the Rajah,
children,
I
a
son,
being
born
I
in
dead.
fell
down
one of
When
my this
happened, the Rajah had been called away by urgent business up Naturally,
I
some of the was very
ill,
far-off rivers of
the interior.
and the four Malay
chiefs
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
91
Council were anxious to show their sympathy with me. When they heard that the child had never lived, they went to the doctor and asked him where it was to be buried. The doctor naturally of the Rajah's
referred
them
to the Bishop,
native but to decide that
consecrated ground.
They came them a
it
who had no
other alter-
could not be buried in
But the chiefs thought differently.
that night to the Astana, bringing with
coffin
and
carried
the
little
body
to
the
consecrated ground on our side of the river, where
some of the Rajah's relatives are laid. These chiefs dug the grave themselves, and covered it over with a grass mound. I was much too ill at the time to know what was going on, but I was told afterwards that Datu Isa insisted on a tree of frangipani being planted over the spot.
I
am
sorry to say the tree
died, but this additional proof of those dear people's
sympathy can never fade from my memory. The Rajah returned to Kuching immediately he heard the news, and in a few weeks I began to mend. When I was well enough, Datu Isa sat with me daily, and she said the event of my recovery must be
marked by a thanksgiving ceremony, for which an "You must lie quiet afternoon had to be set apart. Ranee," she said, "and think morning, Rajah all the I kind thoughts, so that your mind may be serene. I did will appear at three o'clock with my women." At not in the least know what she was going to do. three o'clock, according to her promise, Datu Isa headed a long procession of my friends, who came to
SARAWAK AND
92
PEOPLE
ITS
the door of
my
we were
as silent as the grave.
all
the door of
room.
my
was
I
told not to speak,
mosquito house
Datu
Isa
and
opened
she carried in one
;
hand a piece of something that looked like dried shark's skin, and in her other she held a ring of pure gold. One of her daughters had a basket containing grains of rice dyed with saffron. Datu Isa rubbed " " the ring against the something two or three times, and then traced signs over my forehead with the ring. She scattered a tiny pinch of gold dust on my hair, and threw a handful of the yellow rice over me. " Thanks be to Allah, Rajah Ranee, for you are well again." I was just going to speak, but she motioned me to be quite silent, and she and her women departed. Being somewhat given to superstition, I feel sure that this quaint rite hastened
Before
I
my
close this chapter of the
stay in Sarawak,
it
recovery.
first
years of
would be ungrateful of
me
my
did
not mention the tokens of affection and kindness
I I
received from the English ladies of the place, almost all
of
first
them having come arrival
Mrs.
there.
Resident of Sarawak
;
since
my
Crookshank, wife of the
Mrs. Kemp, then the wife of
the Protestant Chaplain living in
Kuching
to live in
;
indeed,
all
the ladies then
Kuching were always charming
to me.
We
saw a great deal
of one another,
these ladies
the country, their absence from our
left
tiny English society
and whenever any of
was very much
As regards my relations with
the
felt.
Malay women, the
Rajah himself encouraged our friendship
;
he approved
SARAWAK AND of
my methods
PEOPLE
ITS
93
regarding them, and sympathized with
them most completely. Owing to his desire to make more agreeable to me, he appointed my brother, Harry de Windt, his private secretary. This was a great joy to me, my brother and I being devoted the place
to
one another.
like
I
to
imagine that the interest
in Sarawak, and the many expeditions on which he accompanied the Rajah, first inspired the
he took
travelling
passion
which (though he
rightly say
my
is
Sarawak first
I
may
also during
four years of residence in
Sarawak
Therefore the Rajah
expeditions,
think
an author.
made
it
it
made up
his
was
realized that
me
impossible for
to
change to England.
in the country without a
so, for
I
book and
malaria and the climate
a year or
explorations,
was
that he wrote his
passed away as a dream, until
remain
It
future
his
first
his career as
So my
to
brother)
he has become famous.
his stay in
began
led
many world-wide
achievements in the for
him and
in
mind
he himself, with
to
go home
for
his incessant work,
and journeys here and there
for the
good
of the people, had suffered quite his share of fever.
As we
stepped into the Heartsease,
friends congregated
good-bye to me.
all
my women
on the lawn of the Astana
No
need now
women, and no need now
to
to
to say
ask where were the
send for them
lest
they
might be too frightened to come of their own accord.
There they were, the best friends I ever^had, or ever hope to possess. I felt inclined to cry as I said goodbye to them all, and had it not been for ill-health, I
SARAWAK AND
94
ITS
PEOPLE
think the idea of a journey to England would have
been hateful It
to me.
was during
sorrow since
my
three children
this
voyage that the
arrival in
we were
first
great
Sarawak occurred.
The
taking
home with
us died
within six days of one another, and were buried in the
Red
Sea,
CHAPTER
IT
might be interesting
possible, the position the
XII
to explain, as briefly as
Rajahs and their people
we now know
occupied in that great concern
When
under the name of the British Empire. first
the
Rajah Brooke undertook the government of the
country, he did so, as he thought, temporarily, imagin-
ing that the British Government would in time take the country under British
protection.
its
Government was not anxious in the Far East, so
responsibilities
the
Apparently the
first
to increase its
that for years
Rajah struggled on protecting
unsupported and alone.
remembered
is
One
his people
important fact to be
Brooke dynasty has very few instances, have
that ever since the
existed in Sarawak, only in
Empire been required to help the two Rajahs and their Government against their the forces of the British
ejfternal enemies,
although these were the enemies of
the world at large, for pirates
who swept
it
was only
in expeditions against
those seas, thus hindering com-
merce, that British guns came to the assistance of the
white Rajahs. and, shall
we
If
say,
we view
the matter dispassionately
from the standpoint of the
man
in
the street, the position was without doubt a
difficult
and
for the
one, both for the British Government,
SARAWAK AND
96
ITS
PEOPLE
Most of us are aware that vast lands of tropical countries many of them ill-governed by native princes who are only anxious to amass Rajahs themselves.
—
money
for themselves, regardless
their subjects
of the welfare of
—have over and over again been exploited
for shorter or longer periods
by European adventurers.
History teaches us that Europeans, from the time of
down
Cortes
swooped
have on
different occasions
on almost unknown tropical
vultures
like
have gained concessions, the money paid
countries,
finding
to these days,
way
its
into
the treasuries of the various
and in this way the unfortunate inhabitants, the real owners of the land, have been enslaved and forced by nefarious, cruel, and tyrannical methods to give their very life's blood so that these land-grabbing aliens might become rich. Being so intimately associated with the Rajah and
princes
who
his people,
claimed the
is
it
the opinions
natural
I
soil,
should be the last to hear
of that portion
of the British public
unacquainted with the methods of these I
cannot help
thinking
that
rulers,
but
very probably then,
and even now, the white Rajahs of Sarawak are classed with such adventurers, and on this account they found
it
so difficult lo get proper recognition
of their sovereignty from the British Government.
Here was a country come suddenly into existence, with all the paraphernalia of a good Government, with
its
for life
Ministers,
its
and commerce,
Courts of Justice, all
in
its
safety
English hands, and
SARAWAK AND owned by
PEOPLE
ITS
private individuals.
97
Communication was
slow in those days, and the real position of the rulers
was only known to very few and inquiring minds amongst the ^lite of English-speaking and
their people
people.
The Rajahs
were, individually, subjects of
the British Crown, and, despite of their belonging to
an old and very much respected English family, they had few friends at the English Court to push forward their interests.
The full recognition
Sarawak as an independent State by England occurred in 1863, whilst Lord Palmerston was Premier and Lord John Russell It was then that the Secretary for Foreign Affairs. first English Consul was appointed to Sarawak as a formal acknowledgment of its independence. Warships calling at Kuching saluted the Rajah's flag with of
twenty-one guns, so that within his own country the
Rajah was acknowledged by the British Government The first Rajah died five as an independent ruler. years after the appointment of the Consul, for
it
be remembered that the present Rajah succeeded
will
his
uncle in 1868.
On
our
first visit
to
England
after our marriage,
the Rajah was anxious to pay homage to Her Majesty, which was only an ordinary act of courtesy on his part, considering his position as ruler in a portion of
the Malayan Archipelago. attend one of
Her
When he requested leave to
Majesty's levees as Rajah of Sara-
wak, the answer given by the Secretary of State for
Foreign Affairs was somewhat disconcerting, 7
in
view
!
SARAWAK AND
98
ITS
PEOPLE
Sarawak having been recognized as an independent State. The Rajah was informed that Her Majesty's Government did not see their way to present him to the Queen as Rajah of Sarawak, but that he could of
attend a levee in the private capacity of an English
The
gentleman, simply as " Mr. Brooke."
difficulties
when one remembers that the Rajah was governing Sarawak for the benefit of his people, the British Government of the position were obvious,
having recognized the country over which he ruled.
Owing
the
to
Rajah had
exigencies of his
Government, the
employ Englishmen
him work these gentlemen, being nominated by him and paid out of the Sarawak treasury, owed no allegiance to the Foreign or Colonial Offices at in his
home.
to
to
assist
;
To
ensure success in the Rajah's endeavours,
these English gentlemen were bound to honour and
obey him, and to acknowledge him as yet here refusing
was to
England as After
the
British
recognize
the
ruler of his
their
chief,
Government absolutely Rajah of Sarawak in
own country
much correspondence and
several interviews
with the heads of the different departments in power, the
Rajah,
a most loyal servant of
Her
Majesty's,
obtained what the Government called the favour of
being presented to officials
Her Majesty
insisted that
placed in brackets, Rajah's position
as Mr. Brooke.
The
Rajah of Sarawak should be as though
in
apology for the
!
Very few people even nowadays understand the
<
O <
< Pi
w
X H X X
O c
s
SARAWAK AND
PEOPLE
ITS
position of the Brookes in Sarawak,
and
99
it is
difficult
to drive into their heads that the Rajah's wish to be
recognized as Rajah of Sarawak had nothing to do with his
own
No
personality.
fact that nothing is so
one can gainsay the
dangerous to the prosperity of
a country as the anomalous position of
Government.
its
the politics of
Although
my
its
had nothing
I
adopted country,
I
ruler
to
and
do with
shared in
my
husband's wishes that the position of Sarawak might
be protected, and
by the Queen, stability to
its
in order to
its
position
ruler's
acknowledged
give additional security and
Government and
How-
people.
its
ever, in spite of the scant personal recognition for
many
shown
years to the Rajah by the British Govern-
ment, the country managed to flourish
—an
obvious
and statesmanlike
testimony to his single-minded
methods.
Notwithstanding these purely tions,
we spent
the time
delightful.
enjoyed the English a
moment
did
my
forward to the time when life
for
land of predilection the
other side of the world, for
begin again the
England was wholly my health, and
in
very much, but never
life
forget
I
preoccupa-
regained
quickly
I
political
I
was always looking
should return there and
I
amongst
my
beloved Malays and
Dyaks.
The visit
present Rajah
to
England, and
Sarawak,
elicited
delightful
letters.
Muda was his
born during
arrival
this
telegraphed to
from the people many kind and
When
the time
came
for
our
100
SARAWAK AND
ITS
was
PEOPLE
months old, and owing to the sorrowful experience we had had of the dangers of a sea-voyage for young children, we left him in charge of our good friends, Bishop and Mrs. MacDougall. Our baby was to stay with them in England until he had completed his first year, when return to our country, our son
he was to rejoin us
in
Sarawak.
six
CHAPTER
WHEN were,
we
XIII
returned to Sarawak,
broad verandahs
We
waiting for me.
Datu
Isa
Vas
grandchildren,
me, wrapped
as
it
All symptoms had gone, and, as we steamed
under the landing-place of the Astana, its
felt,
a giant refreshed.
of malaria
on
I
had
I
could see
my Malay women
friends
lots of things to talk about.
the proud
and these
in the tight
possessor
were
more
of four
duly presented to
swaddling clothes usual to
was told that Datu Isa and the other chiefs' wives were delighted with the behaviour of their lords and masters during my absence, who had not so much as hinted at the possibility of
Malayan
babies.
I
adding an additional wife to their household.
was
also radiant at our return, as
Talip
was the redoubt-
able Subu, present with the yellow umbrella, splendid,
as usual, in
his
It
and was
just
how
executioner's uniform of gold
green satin shimmering with ornaments. about this time, although
I
do not know
know Subu better than I ever did before. /-He was an old man then, nearing the end of his career, for he was one of those who had been with the first Rajah Brooke when he was made Rajah of Sarawak. Such stories the old it
came
about, that
I
got to
SARAWAK AND
I02
man had
to
PEOPLE
ITS
of his encounters with pirates, also
tell
of the difficulty he had with his wives,
for,
sad
embarked on three, one less than the number allowed to good Muhammadans by the great Prophet himself. The youngest wife he had married not so long ago gave
as
may seem
it
to
him a good deal of the exhortations of
"This
my
troubles
"She
trouble,
my
had
he
relate,
wife No. i," he would
heart
makes me
it
;
is
true,
eldest
wrinkles.
It
who
people should behave to those themselves, for even
old wives
in
wisdom stupid, and
Notwithstanding these domestic storms
They would come I,
No.
2,
my
the
lie
me
home, Subu's wives always called on
No,
pretty,
are older than
young ones are thoughtless,
unknowing." at
is
is
way young
not the
is
me.
She
but she need not always be counting
wife's
of time;
tell
sick.
She
too wilful and arrogant in her youth. it
not listen to
will
in
and No.
strictly 3,
and
I
in
their
am bound
together.
precedence. to say that
so long as they remained with me, the No. 2 and the
No. 3 wives always asked permission of the No. i These wife before they ventured on a remark.
women, however, were not
womanhood I
of
Malaya,
preferred Subu's visits
brilliant
so,
specimens of the
to be quite
truthful,
unaccompanied by these
dames.
He
used to
sit
on the
prepared for him, and
tell
floor of
me
of
my
room, on a mat
many
events, fights,
and hairbreadth escapes he had encountered in his His most interesting stories, howchequered career.
o P5
O
or £"]
Over
over
without the dog-tooth stripe so conspicuous
cotton material costly to
all
women wear
satin,
imported
with three huge knobs of gold, and small gold knobs are sewn all up the slashed sleeves. Large round ear-rings, someIt
fastens
in
front
SARAWAK AND
ITS
times very exquisite in design,
PEOPLE shaped
147
open
like
lotus flowers, are thrust through the lobes of their
Their
ears.
devoid of
scarfs are of quiet colours,
Some-
gold thread, but their hats are marvellous. times they are as
much
as a yard across, so that no
two women can walk near one another. They are made of straw, conical in shape, and are ornamented with huge pointed rays of red, black, and yellow, meeting towards
who knew
me
told
centre.
Mr.
de
Crespigny,
to look out for the ladies as they
way up
their
the
of the dresses and habits of these people,
the path leading to
the
wound
Fort,
and
was indeed a curious sight to see two or three hundred of these discs, one after the other, apparently unsupported, winding slowly up the steep ascent. it
When hats
the
women
somewhere—
reached the Fort, they
left
never fathomed where
I
—
their
before
they came into the reception-room.
They
are pleasant-looking people, these Milanoes
of Bintulu, with their square, pale faces and quantities of jet-black hair.
Their ankles and wrists are not
perhaps quite so delicate as are those of the more southern people, for Milanoes are sturdier in build.
They belong of
Muka,
their
same
to the
owing
complexion
well have their
but,
many
is
tribe as the
sago workers
more sedentary habits, Europeans who know them
to their
paler.
interesting stories to relate regarding
superstitions
the case of illness,
and
when
incantations,
particularly
in
the beautiful blossom of the
areca-nut palm plays an important part.
SARAWAK AND
148
On
PEOPLE
ITS
the night of our arrival at the Fort, native
dances were the programme for the evening.
A
few
the far interior were present, and
Kayans from
we
were promised some new and original performances. A large space was cleared in the middle of the
when a
reception-room, dividual, a
Kayan, active as a
brandishing his parang.
and bounded about the
plump
rather
small,
cat,
was ushered
inin,
At first he crouched down room like an animated frog.
After a while he gradually straightened himself, and
bounded from one side of the space to the other, jumping with the most wonderful agility, spinning round on one leg, and screaming out his war-cry. His parang, in his rapid movements, became multiplied and appeared like flashes of lightning. Once or twice he came so near to where we were that
sitting
I
fancied
the blade caused
a draught
over
my
but,
before one could realize what was happening,
three
Kayans squatting on the floor sprang to their and taking hold of the man, led him out of the
feet, hall. it ?
"
We
head.
I
The Rajah he
said.
"
said nothing
and
sat
on unmoved,
pulled his moustache.
Why has the man been
were then informed that
this
a famous dancer, had previously,
in
"
What
taken away
is
" ?
Kayan, who was a country outside
become so excited in his dancing, that he had actually swept the head off one of his interested spectators. The three Kayans who had taken hold of the dancer had witnessed the gruesome scene, and they realized that on this
the Rajah's jurisdiction,
!
SARAWAK AND he
occasion
dances frenzied
was
ITS
becoming
PEOPLE
over-excited.
149
Other
some sedate and slow, others and untamed. The evening ended very
followed,
somewhat late hour the Rajah dismissed his guests and we retired to bed. I thought a good deal about the little dancing man, and came to the conclusion that he must have been
pleasantly,
an
and
artist in his
at a
way
CHAPTER
ONE
morning, as
I
XVII
was watching the
my verandah at Kuching,
the mail-steamer from
noticed the figure of a
I
A
standing on deck.
me
brought
a
Governor's
Jervois,
The Rajah was away,
North.
from
the
introducing
a
Sarawak, whose name was Marianne
to
traveller
European lady a messenger
after,
Singapore
from
Lady
wife,
tall
few moments
letter
arrival of
so
I
sent his Secretary
on board with a pressing invitation to the lady, of
whom
had heard so much, but had not had the Miss North's arrival in pleasure of meeting. I
Sarawak
is
Many
my
and
I
of
a great and happy landmark in
my
life.
English friends were devoted to her,
was delighted at the idea of her coming to stay I watched our small river-boat fetching
with me.
her from the steamer, and went to meet her.
was not delightful.
young
then,
We shook
but
I
thought
hands, and the
she
first
She
looked
words she
me were " How do you know if you will like me well enough to ask me to stay with From that moment began a friendship you?" which lasted until her death. Many people know said to
the great
:
work
of her
life,
and must have seen the
'J
o <
o « W H O g £ w
o g H H H 2;
— SARAWAK AND gallery
of her
Gardens.
151
she gave to
which
pictures
Many
PEOPLE
ITS
Kew
of these pictures were painted in
Sarawak,
The went
evening of her stay in Kuching we
first
row on the
for a
Matang was, as she forests,
and the sunset behind a revelation. That land of
river,
said,
mountains, and water, the wonderful
effect of
sunshine and cloud, the sudden storms, the soft mists at evening, the
and miles of
perfumed
forest
air
brought through miles
by the night
endless source of delight to her.
on our verandah
sat
strange perfume
sweet,
beyond, across the "
The
in the
scent of
an
Sometimes as we
evening after dinner, a
wafted from
river, floated
unknown
breezes, were
forest
lands
through our house
flowers,"
Miss North would
say.
Our boat-boys were for jungle plants,
sent on botanical expeditions
and every morning and evening
a great variety of things arrived at the Astana, of which
I
morning
I
room and
many
had never seen or even heard of. In the would take my work into Miss North's sit
with her whilst she painted, for
I
loved
it was who first made me and delight found in trees, and flowers. But sometimes she was very She would she thought me young and stupid.
her companionship.
She
realize the beauty, solace, plants,
stern
;
look at
me
through her spectacles, very kindly,
I
must say. " Why, you know nothing," she said, "although you are so late from school! " She once asked me where pitcher-plants were to be found.
— 1
SARAWAK AND
52
" Pitcher-plants,"
them. "
But
said
I
ITS
"
;
PEOPLE
have never heard of
I
don't think there are any in the country."
I
this is the land of pitcher-plants,"
"and
replied,
together."
if
you
we
like
will try
sent for the boat-boy,
I
Miss North
and
them remember find
I
she was painting at the time
distinctly the picture
She
a clump of sago palms growing in our garden.
me how I could describe pitcher-plants to the faithful Kong Kong, one of our boat-boys, a Sarawak told
Malay, an odd and uncouth individual, with long
He had been with Oh yes," said Kong
hair flowing over his shoulders.
many years. " know. They grow where
the Rajah for
Kong, I
"
I
earth
can show you where they grow."
Miss North and
I
walked
went a
for
marshy.
One> morning
got up early and crossed the river
Kong Kong
almost before sunrise, and with guide,
is
as our
search of the pitcher- plants.
in
little
way along
the
We
Rock Road, and
turned into a path leading through a kind of moor,
where the
sensitive plant lay like a carpet covering
That curse
the ground. delighted me.
I
felt
of
through the great patches of its
We
agriculturists
always
a certain enjoyment in walking this shrinking stuff
with
myriads of leaves closing at the slightest touch. left
a pathway behind us of apparently dying
two
vegetation, but a minute or
resumed plant.
its
normal shape.
Kong Kong
Our progress
passage
it
Shy " the way over a swamp,
Malays
then led
where logs of wood were the mud.
after our
laid tg
call
it
the "
keep passers-by
across these logs
off
was not an
SARAWAK AND
We
easy matter.
PEOPLE
ITS
153
went through a grove of
suddenly, in a clearing,
we came
trees,
to the spot.
and I do
who has only seen pitcher-plants sedate way they do at Kew can have
not think anyone
growing
in the
any idea of the
madness of their growth Here they were, cups long, round, wide, and narrow, some shaped like Etruscan
when
beautiful
in a wild state.
vases,
others
small earthenware
like
cooking-pots,
the terminations of long, narrow, glossy green leaves.
Their colour, green
was
too,
ground,
perfectly
over
splashed
exquisite
with
rose,
—a
pale
carmine,
and brown, the little" lids to the cups daintily poised just above each pitcher. I suppose there must have been thousands of these plants, twisting, creeping, and flinging themselves over dead trunks yellow,
of trees,
falling
in
cascades of
heads, forming a perfect bower. silently looking
remarked
:
"
at
At
them.
And you
above our
colour
We
stood
all
length
said yesterday there were
such things in the country
I
no
" !
Miss North remained with us about
and when
still,
Miss North
six weeks,
very sorrowfully accompanied her on
board the steamer on her return to England,
I
felt
new and delightful had come into my had not only introduced me to pitcher-
that something life,
for she
plants,
but
to
orchids,
palms,
other things of whose existence
I
ferns,
and
had never dreamed.
Miss North was the one person who made kind,
me
realize
She was noble, intelligent, and her friendship and the time we spent
the beauties of the world.
and
many
"
SARAWAK AND
154
my
PEOPLE
She paint all day, and, thinking this must be bad I sometimes tried to get her away early in
together are amongst
used
ITS
to
for her,
happiest memories.
the afternoon for excursions, but she would
never
made
paint-
leave her work until waning daylight ing impossible.
remember how she painted a
I
sunset behind Matang,
She
me.
sat
on a
hill
which painting she gave to overlooking the river until
The
the sun went behind the mountain.
and the
dark,
palrfts
in
world grew
the neighbourhood looked
black against the sky as she put her last stroke into
She put up her
the picture.
and was preparing
when
Astana, still,
for
to
palette^ folded her easel,
walk home with
me
to the
some moments she stood
quite
staring at the thread of red light disappearing
behind the shoulder of the mountain. speak beauty
or move,"
she
said.
"
"
I
cannot
am drunk
I
with
!
But there was one thing that Miss North and
I
She did not approve of the view I took of our Dyak and Kayan people. She liked to meet Malay ladies, because, as we all know, did not agree upon.
they have better manners than most Europeans, but
Dyaks
she could not bear the thought of either
Kayans.
I
idea that
or
could never eradicate from her mind the
they
were savages.
interest her in these people, for
I
I
used to try and
longed that she
should accompany us in some of our journeys into the interior, but this she would never do. talk
to
me
of savages," she would say
;
^'
Don't
"I hate
SARAWAK AND them."
"
enough for
PEOPLE
But they are not savages,"
They are just like we made them different." "
listen to
ITS
are, only
"
They
I
iSS
would
reply.
circumstances have take heads
:
that
is
would add severely, and would no defence for that curious custom of theirs,
for me," she
which
I
could find so
many
excuses.
Missing Page
SARAWAK AND
iS8
which generally took place in
our best silks and
we
brocade,
sat together in
Clad
the evening.
in
stiff
with gold
private
room with
and
satins,
the reciter, poorly dressed
PEOPLE
ITS
my
dark cotton clothes,
in
pouring out Wonderful stories of kings, queens, and princesses
;
of royal ga!rdens, monkey-gods, peacocks,
flowers, perfumes,
follow
these
and such-like
stories
things.
could not
I
very well, because these old
Sometimes the voice was low, sometimes very shrill, and when embarrassed for a word, they trilled and quavered, remaining on a very high note until they remembered how the story went, when they gleefully descended the scale, began again, and poured forth further torrents of words. sang every word.
ladies
Sometimes they paused, walked rapidly across the " She is full room, and spat through the window. of understanding," Datu Isa would say after one of " She knows her these journeys to the window. work!" "Her words come from ancient times!" " It
beautiful
is
exceedingly
!
Meanwhile,
"
the
holding her draperies firmly round her,
reciter,
left
the window, and bending double as she passed us as a sign of respect,
took her place once more in
the centre of her admiring circle and began afresh, until
stopped again in the same way,
ejaculatioi>s of
when
admiration came from us
After one of these evening parties, as
were
and her
satellites
room,
suggested that
I
sitting*^
talking to
we should
and write Malay, which language
is
all
the
same
all.
Datu
me
in
Isa
my
learn to read
written in Arabic
;
SARAWAK AND characters.
to work,
PEOPLE
159
asked Datu Isa how we had best
I
for
ITS
I
thought
it
would be good
for
set
the
Malay women and myself to be able to read and " No," said Datu Isa write Malay for ourselves. " that would never do. Writing amongst women is a bad habit, a pernicious custom. Malay girls would be writing love letters to clandestine lovers, and undesirable men might come into contact with the daughters of our house.
Ranee, with the idea, and to pass."
I I
do not agree, Rajah
hope
it
will
never come
This was rather crushing, because Datu
was a tremendous force in our social life in I was not altogether dismayed, and being anxious for this additional pleasure to come Isa
Kuching, but
into
my
friends' lives,
I
pondered on the subject.
A
good many months went by before I could Meanwhile I put my suggestion into execution. began to study on my own account, and sent for Inchi Sawal, a celebrity in the Kuching circles of those days. arts).
He was
He knew
called a
"Guru"
Arabic, was a good
(master of
Malay
scholar,
had taught a great many of the Rajah's ofificers Formerly he had in the intricacies of the language. been Malay writer to the late Rajah. Malay is easy enough to talk ungrammatically, and one can make oneself understood by stringing together nouns and
arid
adjectives, regardless of verbs, prepositions, etc.
The
natives of Sarawak, although learning the language
speak very good Malay, but
by
ear,
in
those' days,
to hear
it
it
was deplorable,
spoken by some of the
SARAWAK AND
i6o
English people residing
however,
is
Malaya, and
one it
is
in
of the
ITS
PEOPLE
Kuching. best
Malay
The
Rajah,
scholars
in
a real pleasure to hear his Malay
speeches to his people.
was a great stickler for grammar. He was a Sumatran Malay, and his face was rounder, his features rather thicker and his complexion darker Inchi Sawal
than our Malays his
;
moreover, his hair was curly, and
whole appearance was cheerful, genial, and kindly.
His functions were numerous.
Muhammadan, and had
He
was, of course, a
friendly relations with all the
Malay chiefs of Kuching, by whom he was looked upon as a cultured man in fact, they considered him the arbiter of Malay literature. He was a butcher, and knew exactly what was required in the killing of bullocks for Muhammadan consumption. He was a wonderful confectioner, and made delicious preserves with little half-ripe oranges growing in orchards round Malay houses in the town. He sent me some of this preserve as a present for New Year's Day, and as I liked it so much, I wanted to know how Accordingly, Inchi Sawal came to the it was made. Astana to give me a lesson. It would take too long to tell of the methods he employed in the preparation of the fruit, but it seemed to me that a good deal of religion was mixed up with the cooking of those small, bobbing green balls, as they simmered in the A number of invocations to Allah boiling syrup. secured a good result to his labours. Inchi Sawal had :
a different appearance during each of his occupations.
SARAWAK AND When
PEOPLE
ITS
cooking oranges, a grave,
seemed de rigueur as he
i6i
religious
aspect
When
leant over the pot.
talking of bullocks, his victims, a devil-me-care ex-
pression spread over his countenance, as though in
the slaughter of each beast he had to wrestle with
a
sanguinary
courtier-like,
When
At
foe.
and mild.
made from
the mid-ribs of palm leaves,
used by most Arabic scholars
I
prove
not
did
I
found
great
sound to the Arabic
in
letter
Europeans to pronounce. characters with him, and
whenever
I
is
to look at a
sound. it
it
I
pupil.
am
My
after him.
said
giving
I
an
adequate
awkward for read Malay in these I annoyed him very much c
(aing),
a vowel pass without pronouncing
let
"The
properly. "
very apt
a
difficulty
Malaya,
in
pronounced a word, which
tutor
Sawal brought
his teachings began, Inchi
with him pens
afraid
became urbane,
lessons he
word
well before
Think over the
letters,
you give Vent
it,
it
will
to its
Tuan, and although
when you
should take a year to master one word,
have mastered
it
beauty of reading," he would say,
give your heart relief and
comfort."
One morning "
usual.
I
Inchi Sawal
was more solemn than
have spoken to the Datu Imaum about
our lessons," he
said, as
he came into the room, "and
he quite agrees that we should together study the Koran.
I
will
cloths, and, if
bring the book wrapped in
you do not
hands before we handle II
its
object,
leaves.
we
We
many
wash our might do a
will
— 1
SARAWAK AND
62
ITS
PEOPLE
Koran before we begin our Malay lessons, which will put us in the proper frame of mind for the things we have to learn. The Datu Imaum also of the
little
approves of
he thinks
women
your learning to read and will
it
as
be a great incentive to the Malay
improve
to
write,
their
minds and strengthen
their
hearts."
Very gravely he unfolded the wrappings in which the Koran lay, and reverently handled the pages of this marvellous book of wisdom, as we read together the
first
chapter
" Praise
most
:
be to God, the Lord of
merciful, the king of the
all
creatures
Direct us in the right way, in the
whom whom
thou hast been gracious
As
assistance.
way of
those to
not of those against
;
thou art incensed, nor of those
astray.
the
Thee
day of judgment.
do we worship, and of thee do we beg
;
who have gone
..." time went on and Datu Isa found
I
could read
and write Malay, she relented so far as to allow her married daughters and daughters-in-law to join me in
my
We
studies.
and, after
some
had great fun over our
time,
lessons,
Daiang Sahada (Datu
Isa's
daughter-in-law) began to write almost better than
She commenced
the great Inchi Sawal himself.
to
describe the history of Sarawak, from the advent of
the
first
white Rajah, in poetry, and played a prominent
part in the education of her sisters.
able house, she and her husband,
the Datu Bandar), helped
me
in
In her comfort-
Abang Kasim (now
my efforts
by
institut-
SARAWAK AND ing a school for
ITS
PEOPLE
women and young
boys.
163
In a short
time the pupils were too numerous for the size of her house, and the Rajah, being interested in this
impetus given to education by the
new
women of Kuching,
where Malay reading and writing were taught, and installed Inchi Sawal as master.^
built a school
One must mention
that even in those days the
Mission schools, organized by the Protestant Bishops of Sarawak, their chaplains, and attained
and were doing good amongst the Rajah's Chinese and
considerable proportions,
immense
Dyak
had
missionaries,
good reasons the Muhammadans were never approached by Christian teachers. subjects, but for very
As the country developed, the Muhammadans (Malays) also longed for educational facilities on their own lines,
so the Rajah instituted a school where Arabic
was taught. Writing of these educational matters
recalls
many /
happy hours
spent in Inchi Sawal's company.
I
regret to say that to his fathers,
I
some years ago he was gathered
and buried
I know so well. women wrapping him in Muhammadan custom. I
cemetery
in the little I
Muhammadan
can fancy his weeping
a sheet, according to the
can also picture the
little
accompanying the canoe
procession
of
which
body was placed covered with a white
his
boats,
in
umbrella, paddling to the shores of his last restingplace, 1
where
his
grave had been dug by members of
This school became known as Abang Kasim's school, and now has
a large attendance.
1
SARAWAK AND
64 Faith
the deep,
— that
allotted
to
ITS
grave about
shallow followers
bosom
the
at the
three
feet
from
Faithful,
bidding of the
good Muhamup and be folded
together with other
Azrail,
madans, Inchi Sawal in
the
of
whence, at the resurrection,
Angel
PEOPLE
of
rise
shall
Allah
—the
Com-
the
Merciful,
passionate.
Another Malay school, on the opposite side of the was founded by Inchi Bakar, the son of old
river,
Inchi Buyong, also a
Sumatran Malay.
succeeded his father as Court- Interpreter, also the
He
perhaps,
is,
Inchi
The
Sawal.
little
his
house
is
visits.
of butcher
fell
oranges of which
I
into is
an
was so
however, a great light in his way, and
a meeting-place for the more educated
Malays of Kuching. culture,
them
think that Inchi Bakar
adept at cooking the is,
often paid
profession I
He
I
more a man of the world than was
other hands, nor do
fond.
He and his family are
Head of the Customs.
great friends of mine, and
Bakar and was
Inchi
Whilst retaining his Arabic
one can talk to him almost on any subject,
he reads and writes English as well as most He was partial to Chinese society, for Englishmen.
for
amongst the Chinese merchants of Kuching are to be Many a found enlightened and cultured gentlemen. time
I
have
sat
on the broad and comfortable verandah
of Inchi Bakar's house and witnessed Chinese plays
enacted on narrow wooden tables, with their feast of colour, curious costumes,
of cymbals.
Chinese music, and clashing
Although the stage was narrow and there
o £ o
P H <
O w p <
o 2;
p
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
165
was no scenery beyond curtains of scarlet and gold, on which were embroidered rampant dragons, we could understand the intricacies of the drama
from the
fact that so
much was
left to
better, perhaps,
our imagination.
Chinese players often came to Sarawak, and are now permanently established in the Chinese Bazaar, but as
is
it
not customary for Malay
women
to mingle
with a crowd, private parties, at which these dramas
were acted
for their benefit,
were frequent amongst
the aristocrats in Kuching.
am happy
I
and
I
to say that Inchi
often hear from him.
Bakar
is still living,
Although he and
I
may
be parted, sometimes for years together, the friendship that exists between us
is
as strong as
early days of our acquaintance,
lad visiting
me
grandmother.
at the
Malays
from that
though I
I
in the
his
mother and
are faithful friends, nor
fact,
sort of home-sickness
was
when he was a young
Astana with
absence blunt their friendship. solation
it
I
does
derive great con-
when, as often happens, a
comes over me, and
I
feel as
must take the next ship back to the land
love so well, never, never to leave
it
again.
In those days Inchi Bakar's wife was also included
She was a relation of Datu Isa, and she and Daiang Sahada were friends. to draw special attejition to the part I should like played by these two Malay ladies in the education of the women in Kuching, who were much impressed by their kind interest and sympathy. Those were in
our edtjcational group.
pleasant days for us
all,
groping about the
letters
1
SARAWAK AND
66
ITS
PEOPLE
of the Arabic alphabet, and trying to obtain
hours of hard
necessary, so that
into the
Those walks
honeysuckle,
the
the roses, the jasmine,
many
and
tuberoses^
which grew
tropical plants
mown
our garden were a great
in
They loved
delight to them.
recreation
in order to " eat the air," as
Astana garden
they said.
the
we thought
considered our
was on most days, as it got cooler and sink behind Matang, we would go
work,
the sun began to
we
After what
graphic perfection.
calli-
other
beds on the closely
in
They
lawns round our house.
often asked
permission to take some of the flowers home, and their
methods of picking the flowers were so refined, gentle, and economical, that they might pick as many as they liked without any devastation being noticeable
beds after their passage.
in the
flowers with their stems
Malays never pick
they only take the heads
;
of flowers which they set floating in
They used
with water.
to
saucer^
filled
ask me why we ordered
our gardeners to break off great branches of blossoms to put in
so high
water
up,"
in
our drawing-room.
basins
full
So
that in
my
Besides
rooms
I
ideas,
are
it
destroys
always had great
of sweet-smelling stemless flowers floating
on the surface of the water to please If only
They
they would say, "their perfume can
never be thoroughly enjoyed. the plant."
"
we could we must
imagine that
must dec6rate
in it
free ourselves realize
order to
it
is
my
friends.
from the conventional entirely erroneous to
make a room
beautiful
we
with long stems of flowers and buds.
DAIANG LEHUT—DAIANG SAHADA'S DAUGHTER
SARAWAK AND I
think
much
Malays have
matters, because last just as
PEOPLE
ITS
better
flowers smell quite
167
taste
as
such
in
sweet and
long under the methods they employ of
perfuming their houses.
Our evening
through the Astana grounds
strolls
reminded fny friends of the legends related by the "
old lady reciters.
Here we
are," they often ex-
claimed, " in the Rajah's gardens, playing, smelling
sweet perfumes, and looking at ponds over which floats the lotus
—just
Beyond
like the old stories."
and miles of forest land stretching to the north between Kuching and the sea, the mountain of Santubong could be seen from our garden towering on the horizon. Viewed from Kuching, the outline the miles
of the mountain as
it
lies
appearance of a human
against the sky, has the
profile,
ordinary resemblance to the
Sarawak. the
The Malays
women have
bearing an extra-
first
white Rajah of
are aware of this
"
me
and
we stood The gods knew what
frequently said to
looking at the mountain,
fact,
as
they were about, they fashioned Santubong so that the image of the
first
white Rajah should never fade
from the country."
Another source of joy on these occasions was the presence of a peahen we kept roaming about at
The naked feet of up and down the paths was,
liberty in our garden.
the
women
for
some
more than the bird could The appearance of my Malay friends was the
stand.
pattering
mysterious reason,
for
it
to single
signal
from out the group one unfortunate
1
SARAWAK AND
68
member, when
would rush
it
PEOPLE
ITS
at her toes
and follow
The
her in and out the bushes on the lawn.
victim,
half-amused and half-frightened at the pecks, would
move
quicker than
is
Malay
customary amongst
Sometimes the bird got so violent in its attacks, that I had to call the sentry on guard at the door of the Astana. The sentry (either a Malay or aristocrats.
a Dyak), in his white uniform with black facings,
musket
appeared very courageously at
in hand,
woman from
to protect the
her feathered persecutor,
the peahen turned her attention to
until
whereupon
his
and
figure of the sentry rushing hither
much merriment. and
my Malay
his toes,
musket was dropped, and the
frantic attempts to escape
first
little
thither in his
from the bird caused us
This was a frequent occurrence,
friends called
it
"playing with the
do not
peahen
"
think
I
should have enjoyed the bird's antics quite so
much
as they did.
!
I
was glad
I
wore shoes,
for
I
Sometimes the party stayed until 6 p.m., when, on fine evenings, more punctual than any clock,
we heard a
shrill
trumpeting noise issuing
from the woods near the Astana.
I
believe
came from a kind of cricket. "It is the fly telling us to go home," they said, and, sound of
this musical alarum,
my
this
six o'clock
friends
at the
first
bade
me
good-night, stepped into their boats, and were paddled to their
homes.
I
often watched
them as they went
away in their covered boats, the paddles churning up the golden or flame-coloured waters of
the
river
SARAWAK AND tinted
by the
ITS
sunset, ar^d thought
different coloured skins should
PEOPLE how absurd
169 it is
that
be a bar to friendship
between white and dark people, seeing that kindness and sympathy are not confined to any region of the earth, or to any race of men.
CHAPTER XIX
MALAY age,
people have a great reverence for
and Datu
endeared her
still
generation at Kuching.
and
were delighted
I,
Isa's
many
years apparently
more
to
the younger
Her children, grandchildren, when she would tell us
about her early life, and also about the superstitions and legends of her country. Her conversation was
always
interesting,
and
impression of her manner
When
I
wish
when
I
could
give an
relating these tales.
sixteen years of age, she, together with several
Malay women of Kuching, had been liberated from captivity by the menacing guns of James Brooke's yacht, turned on to the Palace of her captor. Rajah Muda Hassim, who had intended to carry her off to
Brunei for the Sultan's harem.
This personal
reminiscence invariably served as the prelude to other interesting tales.
The
story of the Pontianak ghost,
was the one which perhaps thrilled us most. Malays almost sing as they talk, and their voices quaver, become loud or soft, or die off in a whisper, the words being interspersed with funny
for instance,
little
nasal noises, together with frowns, sighs, or smiles.
When
about to relate a dramatid incident, Datu Isa
became
silent for
a moment, looked at us with knitted
SARAWAK AND
PEOPLE
ITS
brows, although she did not see
171
so intent
us,
was
she on her story.
This
baby under
about
is
the
to
flooring
be
born,
of
his
He
chuckle behind him.
woman
When
Pontianak.
the story of the
is
the
walking
father
house
a
hears
low
a
turns round, and sees a
looking at him.
Her
face
is
like
the moon, her eyes are like stars, her mouth
is
like
beautiful
a half-open pomegranate, her complexion her
hair
intensely
round her
She
red.
wears
is
a
white,
sarong
and no jacket covers her shoulders.
waist,
Should the husband have neglected to
bunch of onions, tuba
roots,
set fire to the
and other
ingredients,
smoke of which keeps evil spirits away, the woman stands there for some moments without
the
uttering a
sound.
Then she opens her mouth, By this time the
giving vent to peals of laughter.
husband spell
is
so frightened
by which
to
a while, her feet
and as she behind her
flies
that
combat her
rise
he can think of no
evil intentions.
After
an inch or two from the ground,
swiftly past him, her hair flows straight
like a comet's tail,
when he
sees between
her shoulder blades the large gaping wound, signifying that she there
is
is
no hope
a Pontianak. for the
woman
be born, they are doomed to is
After this apparition, or the babe about to
die, so that the
Pontianak
one of the most dreaded ghosts haunting Malay
houses.
As Datu all
Isa finished
clamoured for more.
the
The
Pontianak
story,
we
old lady loved to see
"
SARAWAK AND
172
our
interest,
superstitions
:
PEOPLE
ITS
and went on telling us many other Unless you cover the heads of sleep-
ing children with black cloth, and put a torn fishing net on the top of their mosquito curtains, the birds,
Geruda, Dogan, and Konieh (supposed to be eagles),
come
will
You
them and cause convulsions.
close to
must put knives or pinang cutters near your babies,
and when walking out with them you must take these instruments with you, until your babies can walk alone. Then turning to me, Datu Isa would say "I hope you will never see the sun set under the fragment :
of a rainbow.
Rajah Ranee,
portent that the
rainbows if
is
a certain
Rajah's wife must die,
although
sky do not matter
in other portions of the
When my children
you know how to address them.
and grandchildren are out
bow more
in the
gaily coloured flowers
children's heads,
and say
we have come
out
garden, and a rain-
we pluck
arches over the sky,
to
:
'
that
for
the heads off the
and place them on the Hail,
King
meet you
of the Sky,
our
in
finest
clothes.' It
is
unlucky for a child to
kick up
its legs, this
mother
will
fall
lie
on
its
and
face
being a sure sign the father or
sick.
When
a
woman
expects a
baby, the roof of her house must not be mended, nor
must her husband cut his hair or his nails. During this time a guest must not be entertained for one they must stay two. When a woman night only ;
dies in
childbirth,
during the fasting month of the
Muhammadans, she becomes an
" orang
alim
"
(a
:
SARAWAK AND good
and
spirit),
173
may have committed
the sins she
all
PEOPLE
ITS
are forgiven her.
Datu
made
had great
Isa
of a
Sarawak
and she was anxious
coast,
It
it.
possessed,
my
on the
should take
I
was given me
years of
first
I
black seaweed found
kind of
care not to break
During the
a bangle
faith in
in this
way
stay in Sarawak, an old
gardener employed at the Palace, having
in
some
way misbehaved afterwards,
I
himself, was dismissed. Shortly met the old man in a state of great
my walks the other side of begged me to use my influence with
depression during one of the river, and he
the Rajah and get
him taken back again, promising in the future. He was a
he would behave better lazy old man, but as
the Rajah to give
I
sorry for him,
felt
him another
agreed, and the
in
garden
often
in his
asked
The Rajah
trial.
man resumed work own desultory way. I
I
the Astana
used to
watch him pulling up the weeds from the paths
would
sit
on
some minutes'
after
he
and take
his haunches, stare at the river, rest
;
every weed he extracted.
Notwithstanding these drawbacks, he was a grateful
and on the morning of Rajah's gardeners he
soul,
the
made I
had
man
difficulty in getting it
and, after
harm
brought
of this black seaweed.
put
hand,
his reinstalment
it
It
over
into boiling water to
some
little
trouble,
it
" Lightning, snake bites,
me
amongst
a bangle
was very small and
my
hand, so the old
make
it
more
elastic,
was forced over
my
and antus can never
you," he said, "as long as you keep the bangle
SARAWAK AND
174
round your
wrist, but should
bring you bad luck
now, and
I
dread
The
!
"
ITS
PEOPLE
it
ever break,
bangle
is
on
would
it
my
wrist
anything should happen to
lest
it,
should
feel just as
nervous of the result as would any of
my Malay
for should
it
ever get broken,
women friends. Some of the Malays
I
Sarawak use somewhat disconcerting methods to frighten away evil spirits on the occasion of very bad storms. After a frightful gale, accompanied by incessant lightning and thunder, that occurred in Kuching, two or three owners of plantations in the suburbs of the town came to the Rajah and complained that some of their Malay neighbours had cut down all their fruit trees during the hurricane, in
Nowa-
in order to propitiate the spirit of the storm.
days these drastic measures to other people's property are seldom heard
because the Rajah has his
of,
own
methods of dealing with such superstitious and undesirable proceedings.
It
took some time to eradicate
these curious and unneighbourly customs, but
they are I
now a
must
tell
amongst Malays.
more
one
curious
Just before
Malay woman from one of our
me fruit
I
believe
thing of the past.
a cocoa-nut, very
much
of the Archipelago,
I
I
belief
left for
existing
England, a
out-stations brought
larger than the ordinary
believe these
huge cocoa-
nuts are only to be found growing in the Seychelles Islands,
them "cocoa de mer." me she had brought me this fruit on
and the natives
The woman
told
account of the luck
it
call
brought
its
possessor; at the
INCHI BAKAR— SCHOOL MASTER, KUCHING
SARAWAK AND same time assuring me asked her to that, as is
me
tell
175
came from fairyland. I story, when she informed me it
its
every one knows,
a place called
spot,
PEOPLE
ITS
"The
in the
middle of the world
navel of the sea."
guarded by two dragons,
a tree
is
known
In this
on which
Pau Jinggeh. The dragons feed on the fruit, and when they have partaken too freely of it, have fits of indigestion, causing them to be sea-sick thus the fruit finds its way into the ocean, and is borne by the current into These enormous nuts are all parts of the world. occasionally met with by passing vessels, and in this manner some are brought to the different settlements in the Malayan Archipelago. The fruit brought for my acceptance had been given to the woman by a captain of a Malay schooner, who had rescued it as it was bobbing up and down in the water under the keel of " I thought you would like to have it, his boat. these large cocoa-nuts grow,
as
;
Rajah
Ranee," she
bought
for love
" because
said,
nor money."
The
fruit
it
cannot be
now
occupies
a prominent position in our drawing-room at Kuching,
and
is
a source of great interest to the natives.
With our
ideas of
European wisdom, we may be
inclined to smile superciliously at these beliefs,
we
should not forget that a great
like seeing one table,
we
magpie,
many
but
of us, do not
we avoid dining thirteen at new moon through glass,
hate to see the
we never walk under a
ladder, or
sit in
a room where
and how about people one meets who assure us they have heard the scream three candles are burning
;
i;6
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
of a Banshee, foretelling the death of some
human
being?
do not
Putting
superstition
all
these things together,
I
Dyaks show much more than we Europeans do after all, we are
think either
Malays or
;
not so very superior to primitive races, although
we imagine that on account of our we are fit to govern the world.
superior culture
CHAPTER XX
DURING
my
residence
Sarawak,
ia
I
witnessed several epidemics of cholera, and to
advent
is
any who have nervous temperaments, its alarming. On one of its visitations, some
curious incidents occurred, on account of the superstitious practices of the
Chinese residing
much
In order to allay panic as
Rajah and
I
in
Kuching.
as possible, the
drove or rode every morning through
the Bazaar, where cholera was
rife
and where the
atmosphere was impregnated with the smell of incense and joss-sticks, set burning by the Chinese in order to mitigate the plague.
to
Many
devices were resorted
by these people, superstitious and otherwise.
remember one magnificent
I
junk, built regardless of
expense, the Chinese merchants and their humbler
and poorer brethren giving ungrudgingly to
make
their dollars
and cents
this vessel glorious, as
to stay the ravages of the infuriated god.
a sop
The junk
was placed on wheels and dragged for three miles down a bad road to a place called Finding, where it was launched on the waters of the river, to be borne by the tide it was hoped to the sea. The procession accompanying this vessel was extremely Great banners, scarlet, green, and blue. picturesque.
—
—
SARAWAK AND
178
PEOPLE
ITS
on which were embroidered golden dragons, were
carried
by Chinamen, and
cymbals made a most
Nor was
clashing of
frightful noise.
this the only procession organized whilst
the cholera was at I
the
etc.,
its
height.
One
morning, after
had been riding round the settlement, and had got
off
my
river,
pony
saw
I
along
the
at the
in the distance
road,
a crowd of people coming clashing
shouting,
something
bearing
coming
door of our stables across the
This
aloft.
cymbals,
and
"something," on
nearer, turned out to be a
man
seated on a
formed entirely
chair looking like an arm-chair, but
of swords, their sharp edges forming the back, the
and the arms.
seat,
The man was
naked, with the ex-
ception of a loincloth and a head-handkerchief.
head
rolled
from side to
side, his
His
tongue protruded, and
only the whites of his eyes could be seen.
I
thought
mad or in a ^t, but one of our Syces told me the man was trying to allay the cholera. The mob following him was screeching, yelling, boundhe must be
ing about, beating gongs, and making a
As
it
swept close to where
no one
I
stood,
I
terrific noise.
could see that
crowd took notice of anybody or anytheir way. The procession went round the
in the
thing in
Chinese quarters of the town, and, meanwhile, the
man Our
was apparently immune from wounds. English doctor subsequently examined the chair,
in the chair
and having realized
for himself the sharpness of its
blades, he could not understand how the
have escaped cutting himself to
pieces.
man
could
SARAWAK AND
PEOPLE
ITS
179
This gruesome procession took place morning and evening during the
first
weeks of the epidemic, but
instead of allaying the scourge effect of increasing
appeared to have the
it
Moreover, the minds of the
it.
people were in danger of becoming unhinged by this daily spectacle,
and the man who
sat in the chair
was
beginning to exercise an undesirable influence over
This senseless proceeding
the people in the Bazaar. also
became a serious obstacle
to the
fore ordered the procession to
day
more
intelligent
The Rajah
there-
be suppressed.
The
attempts to stamp out the disease.
after the order -was given, the
Rajah and
I
were
when we met more numerous
driving in one of the roads near the town,
the forbidden procession with a
still
Chinamen than hitherto. The Rajah said the time, but when we reached the Palace
following of
nothing at
he sent a force of police under an English officer to arrest the sword-chair man and imprison him. The following morning, before daylight, a band of China-
men
encircled the gaol, and
ate the fanatic.
The
somehow managed to
liber-
Rajah, hearing of this matter,
sent for the principal shopkeepers in the Bazaar,
informed them that
if
the
man was
and\
not restored to the
prison before six o'clock that evening he would turn the
guns of the Aline on
to their houses in the Bazaar,
and them down over their heads. It was an excitng time. I remember seeing the Aline heave anchor and slowly take its position immediately in front of batter
the Bazaar. of
At
five o'clock that
Chinamen asked
evening a deputation
to see the Rajah.
"The man
is
SARAWAK AND
i8o
back
they said
in gaol,"
;
The Rajah
any more."
"
he
ITS
PEOPLE
will
not trouble the town
smiled genially at the news,
shook hands with each member of the deputation,
and
realized again, as in so
I
many
other cases, the
The man
Rajah's wisdom in dealing with his people.
who was
the cause of the trouble
was subsequently
sent out of the country.
There are many mysteries regarding these curious Europeans are not able
to
Another practice of the Chinese, when
in
Eastern people which fathom.
any
when about
straits or
commercial
enterprise,
to
is
embark on some new
down
to -lay
burning
charcoal for the space of several yards, over which
two or three barefooted.
initiated individuals are paid to
scathed, which
always the
am
I
result,
given to understand
the
enterprise
nearly
is
considered a
is
This practice was once resorted to
favourable one. in
walk
they come through the ordeal un-
If
Kuching, when a company of Chinese merchants,
anxious to open up pepper and gambler gardens in
Sarawak, set certain Chinamen to gambol up and
down
the
fiery
path unscathed.
The
pepper and
gambler gardens were established, and proved a great success.
One
people's bare
and
can only wonder
how
it
is
that these
skins appear to be impervious to
fire
to sharp instruments.
The outbreak entirely to the
of cholera did not confine
Chinese quarter.
out victims here and there, and the friends,
Datu
Isa
and her
It
began picking
Kampong
relations,
itself
also
of
my
suffered
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
i8i
Every morning, notwithstanding, my Malay friends found their way to the Astana, and during one of these visits, whilst we were talking quite happily and severely.
trying to keep our minds free from the all-absorbing topic of the sickness that
was laying so many low
mourning to so many houses in saw the Datu Tumanggong's wife, a buxom lady of forty years, fat and jolly in appear-
and
bringing
Kuching,
I
ance, suddenly turn the ashy-green colour that reveals
sickness amongst these people.
She rubbed her chest
round and round, and then exclaimed feel
vexy
ill.
Good heavens
"
seized with cholera.
Datu
perhaps the sickness
!
methods. water,
I
"
I
thought, she
spirit
I
had recourse
to
heroic
some hot
gave the poor lady a strong
(which certainly, being a
madan, she had never tasted
before),
Muham-
mixed with
about twenty drops of chlorodyne. The mixture half a tumbler,
and
I
I is
Isa said to me, " Wallahi,
sent for a bottle of brandy,
and chlorodyne.
dose of the
I
!
" Wallahi,
:
told her to drink
it
filled
and she
She was trembling and demur for one instant, and frightened, but did not swallowed the draught, making an extraordinary gulp She gave me back the tumbler, and in her throat. immediately sank back on the floor and lay inanimate on the rugs in my room. For one moment I thought killed her, and looked at Datu Isa and my I had would
feel
all
right.
other friends to see
how
they would take
have cured her, Rajah Ranee," they said. go home and leave her to finish her
it.
"
You
We
will
sleep."
I
"
1
SARAWAK AND
82
pretended to
feel
PEOPLE
ITS
no anxiety, although
must say
I
I
did not feel very comfortable.
we two stayed in the room await developments. The lady lay like a log, and I
to
sent for Ima, and
her pulse beat very
fast.
After some time,
I
saw
her colour becoming restored, and in the space of
two hours she well "
"
again.
You do
up and appeared to be perfectly Wallah, Rajah Ranee," she said.
sat
You
understand.
secrets that no, one else can
have
people
white
know."
Personally,
I
was not so sure, but I was delighted when I realized she was none the worse, and saw her escorted down the path to her boat by Ima and the boat-boys. Her attack and my remedy did not appear to do her any harm, for, from that day, she always came to me for help in any ailment. The Rajah was called away from Kuching during the epidemic, and I was alone with the children at the Astana.
very
well,
One morning, a chief, whom paid me a friendly call. We
talked on the verandah,
and
full
as
I
was
Talip came to
Mohammed's
About eleven
garden.
getting up after
my room and
what flowers they like.
Mohammed was
I
said
But
and
as on that
o'clock
we shook
That same
my
afternoon nap,
asked whether Datu
some
wife could have
" Certainly,"
sat
life
of
hands, and he went back to his house. day,
knew
thought he had never
I
been so talkative or seemed so particular morning.
I
;
I
flowers from our
" tell
them
did not
having a feast to-day."
to
pick
know Datu "
He is
not,"
SARAWAK AND
PEOPLE
ITS
183
Talip replied; "he died of cholera at three o'clock."
This was said with a smile,
for
Malays, whenever
they have sorrowful or tragic news to impart, always smile, in order,
The
I
suppose, to
mask
death of a favourite cat would
their
elicit
feelings.
sighs
and
groans, but in any sorrow they hide their tru6 feelings,
even from their nearest
Some
of the Malays
to
combat the
in
Kampong
disease.
relations.
had curious methods in trying There was an old lady living
Grisek, called
Daiang Kho, who was
beloved by the Malays of Kuching on account of her blameless duties,
her rigorous
life,
and above
all,
the great pilgrimage to
brought with
her
from
attention
to
religious
because she had
achieved
Mecca.
Mecca
Daiang Kho had a
Muhammadan
was made great use of in cases of The rosary was placed in a illness in Kuching. tumbler of cold water over night, and the liquid rosary,
and
this
poured into various bottles the next morning, to be
Daiang Kho informed me that the cures performed by the rosary were wonderful, but, as we all know, in some cases mind triumphs over the body, and I was not therefore surprised at hearing that this innocuous drink had sometimes been successful in curing sufferers when attacked by the first symptoms of disease. used as medicine,
CHAPTER XXI my one DURING youngest son Harry was of
Tuan Bungsu title
visits to
England our
born.
He
(the youngest of a family), a
Rajahs of
given to the youngest son of the
As
Sarawak.
called
is
time went on and our
boys were
became incumbent on me, for obvious reasons, to spend more time away from our country. I had to make my home in England, on account of the education of our sons, but, whenever possible, I hurried over to pay visits to what is, after all, my
growing up,
own of
land.
my
it
I
life
think
one of the happiest periods Bertram went
occurred just before
Cambridge, when he accompanied
We
me
to
to Sarawak.
then stayed there some months, part of which
time the Rajah was obliged to be in England.
Bertram and
I
gave many receptions to our
Malay friends, and it did not take us long to pick up again the threads of our life in Sarawak. I should like to give an account of some journeys
which Bertram and stations. visit
the
For
I
took
instance,
Rejang
I
district
agreeing with these plans,
to
some
of the
out-
was anxious we should together, and the Rajah, gave us his yacht for our
journeys. 184
SARAWAK AND *
ITS
PEOPLE
185
We started one morning from Kuching, accompanied
by our great
friend Mr. C. A. Bampfylde, then ad-
Government in the Rajah's absence, and Dr. Langmore, who had come with us from Europe, for a round of visits to our Dyak and Kayan friends. ministering the
We
stayed a day or two at the Httle village
of Santubong, at the mouth of the Sarawak River,
where the Rajah had of Europeans
The
built
a bungalow for the use
change of
requiring
chief of this village
is
a kindly, well-educated
Malay, named Hadji Ahmad.
been to Mecca, and
This gentleman has.
thought a great deal of both
At any of these small the Rajah's country, Malay gentlemen
by Europeans and settlements in
is
to the sea.
air
natives.
of the standing of Hadji
Ahmad
occupy the
of magistrate, and are entitled to inquire try, all
the petty cases that
may
office
into,
and
occur even in such
simple out-of-the-way and almost sinless communities.
As
I
think
I
have remarked
before, the
criminal cases are under the control
and
When we
serious
of the
Rajah
Kuching.
his Council at
Heidji
more
arrived at the bungalow,
Ahmad's
wife,
sisters,
aunts,
we found
and
female
cousins sitting on the floor arrayed in silks and satins
with gold bangles, waiting for
us.
Hadji
Ahmad
was anxious we should be amused during our
stay,
and, being an enthusiastic fisherman, he was eager to
show us a good
a fishing-shed for
day's sport.
us,
He
offered to erect
with as thick a roof as possible,
to protect us from the sun,
on the shallow, shelving
1
SARAWAK AND
86
ITS
PEOPLE
bank of sand which at low tide lies uncovered for When the hut was miles on the Santubong shore. built,
some twenty fathoms from the
Ahmad
Hadji
asked permission to bring his family to join
in the expedition.
long,
shore,
We
covered with white awnings.
narrow canoe,
The Malay
ladies
started off at ebbtide in a
had taken
their position
in
the
boat for about an hour and a half before our arrival,
and as
I
stepped into the canoe they almost sent
overboard
us
me down
in
in
the
their
tender
attempts
to
most comfortable corner.
settle
Hadji
Ahmad's wife was a buxom dame of thirty years. She and her five companions talked incessantly, and one of the elder women kept us amused and the Malay women in a perpetual giggle, at the manner in which she chaffed her brother, who was She was most personal in her our helmsman. remarks, drawing attention to his swarthy complexion,
beard and moustache that sparsely covered his
his
chin and lips (Malay
men
are seldom adorned with
either beard or moustache), but he took his sister's
witticisms good-humouredly.
The
fishing-hut looked like a bathing machine,
standing on It
stilts
in
the middle of the
had been decorated with the
of the areca-nut palm,
draperies
risen tide.
beautiful blossom
and mats and
all
kinds of
village)
work of the were hung round the
made our way up
the wide- rung ladder,
embroidered
Malay women of the
in
gold
(the
hut.
We
some
ten feet high, through which the water shone
SARAWAK AND and glistened
in the
PEOPLE
ITS
most alarming manner.
we
of Chinese crackers were let off as hut, causing great delight to
my
highly approved of the din.
The
A
salvo
entered the
who
female escort,
hut groaned and
creaked as our party, some fourteen their seats
187
in
number, took
on a small platform jutting out from
it
The construction of these sheds was very ingenious. They were erected upon a series over the
sea.
of stout timber poles 'disposed at the back of the leaf building
number
in
the
shape of a boat's
keel.
A
of canoes, which had conveyed ten or fifteen
of the rhost experienced fishermen in the village, were
Four great poles, acting as
tied to these poles.
swung
twenty feet
As
levers,
horizontally each side of the hut, jutting out in front,
between which the nets were hung.
came in, the excitement of the party grew intense, and the fishermen sang a dirge-like melody, inviting the fish into the net, telling them the Rajah's wife and son were expecting their arrival, and that, therefore, it would only be good manners and loyalty on their part to pay their respects by being caught and eaten by them When sufficient time had elapsed, according to Hadji Ahmad's idea, for the net to be full of fish, the fishermen hung on to the poles the tide
[
at the
back of the
hut,
their
weight swinging the
ends on which the nets were tied out of the water,
when we saw a number of meshes. Amongst the fish
fish
wriggling in their
were
two
or
three
octopuses, those poisonous masses of white, jelly-like
substances which
all
fishermen in the Straits dread
1
SARAWAK AND
88
like the evil
stings
PEOPLE
one himself, on account of
when
these,
;
ITS
their poisonous
captured, were tossed back again
into the sea.
After an enjoyable day,
house for
and started
tea,
we went back
off again
to
the
in the cool of
the evening to visit a creek in the neighbourhood,
where
a great boulder of sandstone, upon which
lies
the figure of a
we
travelled
woman
in
is
carved.
On
this occasion,
one of the Aline' s boats, our crew
having provided themselves with paddles
make
their
abounds
way through
in
in order to
the aquatic vegetation which
the small streams.
Bertram took
his
place at the helm, and, without asking any questions,
proceeded to steer us through a maze of nipa palms
and mangroves, twisting channels for an hour or thinking the
way
in
and out of these numerous
so.
Dr.
Langmore and
I,
rather long, at last inquired whether
when Hadji Ahmad we were drifting in quite the wrong direction. " But why did you not say so ? " "We could not set the I said to Hadji Ahmad. we were on
the right track,
informed
that
us
Rajah's son right until he asked us to do so," he
we not inquired the way, I suppose we might even now be wandering about the maze of water, with Bertram at the helm. The replied.
Therefore, had
and Bertram was as amused as we were at the extreme politeness of our Malay entourage. At length the stone was reached, and it was indeed a curious object. One Hadji
had
soon
put
us right,
better explain that at the foot of this mountain
SARAWAK AND
PEOPLE
ITS
189
of Santubong, in the alluvial soil washed
down by
the frequent rain of those tropical countries, traces of a former settlement, in the shape of beads, golden
pottery have
ornaments, and broken
been
found
lying here and there with the pebbles, gravel, and
mud,
rolled
have visited
down from
Experts who
the mountain.
this spot are confident that a considerable
number of people once lived here, and, owing to some unknown cause, deserted the spot. Amongst some of the debris, the
remains of a glass factory and
golden ornaments of Hindoo workmanship have been discovered. pletely
of
com-
This race of people has faded
from the memory of the present inhabitants
Santubong.
The
sandstone
boulder
with
its
was only discovered during quite late years by a gardener who was clearing the soil in preparaeffigy
tion for a vegetable garden.
We
landed in the midst of
Narrow planks of wood,
mud and
raised
through a morass to the
on
figure.
fallen trees.
led us
trestles,
It
rests
under a
roof of iron-wood shingles, erected by the Rajah's
orders to protect the carving from the effects of the
weather.
The
carved figure
apparently represents a
is
about
life-size,
and
naked woman flung face
downwards, with arms and legs extended, clinging to the surface of the rock
;
a knot of hair stands some
inches from her head, and
stone
is
all
round the figure the
weather-beaten and worn.
Lower down, on
the right of the larger carving, Bertram
and
I
dis-
covered the outline of a smaller figure in the same
SARAWAK AND
I90 position.
A
upper
is
bar,
PEOPLE
ITS
on
triangular mark, with three loops
its
be seen near by on the stone, look-
to
The
ing like the head of an animal rudely scratched.
natives of Santubong have turned the place into a
that the
men and women
me
told
of his village imagine the
have been that of a
figure to
Ahmad
Hadji
sort of shrine for pilgrimage,
real
woman, given and turned
torturing animals for her amusement,
The
stone by an avenging Deity. at least all those with
whom
to
people of Sarawak,
have come
I
to
in contact,
are under the impression that anyone guilty of injurto
be
turned into stone by an offended god, and nearly
all
ing, ill-treating, or
laughing at animals
the stones or rocks to be fivers,
met with
is liable
in
the beds of
and elsewhere, are thought by the people to
be the remnants of a human crimes.
They
of curses),
became so
call
but
race,
these stones Batu
how
guilty of such
Kudi
these legends took
firmly implanted in the
(the stones
root
and
minds of Sarawak
people remains a mystery to this day.
This mysterious Santubong figure puzzles and interests
me
greatly.
There
is
no one nowadays
Kuching capable of fashioning such a thing. over, the tops of carved pillars, and other
in
Morefretted
fragments of stone, have been found in these gravel beds, so that
I
imagine somewhere on the mountain
must be hidden more vestiges of a long-departed
and maybe of other one remembers Angkor Wat and
people, in the shape of temples buildings.
When
the manner in which that stupendous work of men's
SARAWAK AND hands lay buried leaves,
PEOPLE
ITS
under
for centuries,
191
shroud of
its
which more completely than desert sand ob-
the works of humanity for a long while, one can almost be certain that Santubong and its literated
mysteries will be unveiled some day.
could live long enough to see
I
only wish
Musing over
it.
I
the
past history of semi-deserted countries, such as these,
Under the shade
entrances and terrifies one.
numerable generations of
trees,
come and gone, struggled altars
and temples
of in-
men and women have
to live their lives, raised
to their gods, with perhaps the
quietude of endless previous centuries lulling them into factitious security.
Then
that " something
"
happens,
when, helpless as thistledown blown about by puffs of wind, such people are destroyed, driven forth or killed,
when
the relentless growth of the tropics takes posses-
and the trace of their existence is blotted out by leaves. Those great forests of the tropics must hold many secrets, and when stay* sion of their deserted homes,
ing near the Santubong mountain,
its
mystery weighed
on me, and I longed to know the fate of those who had gone before. For reasons such as these, it is a pity that
with
some of the Europeans who come natives
should
do
all
Ahmad was
—yarns
touch
they can to wipe out
from their minds legends and origin of their race
into
tales bearing
on the
them.
Hadji
they
call
a proof of the manner in which these
was anxious to know what was thought by the Santubong people about this stone. The Hadji said some obvious things, but when I methods
affected him.
I
SARAWAK AND
192
PEOPLE
ITS
me not to do so, for he Sarawak might accuse him he preferred to keep what he
pressed him further, he begged
was
afraid
Englishmen
of telHng Hes
;
in
therefore
thought about the stone to himself.
made by Europeans
such criticisms
too often that
cannot repeat
I
to imaginative Eastern peoples
amongst
whom
they
live are helping to suppress secrets which, if unveiled,
might prove of inestimable value to science. Before closing this chapter, conversation the
friends
Rejang.
It
must recount a
I
had with one of
I
my
Santubong
evening before
our
was a
moonlight night, and
beautiful
departure
the
to
the mountain of Santubong looked black against the
Within a few yards of the house a grove of
sky.
casuarina trees were swaying in the evening breeze.
The murmur sound
of their
on the verandah, to
frail
branches
in the stillness of the
go out by
my Malay
yourself,
made an exquisite As we stood
night.
friend said
:
"If you
like
Rajah Ranee, and stand under
those trees at midnight,
you
will
hear
voices
of
unknown people telling you the secrets of the earth." I wish now I had gone out and listened, for I am foolish enough to believe that the secrets told by branches
musical
those
might
have
been worth
listening to, but afraid of the night, of the solitude,
and,
above
friends,
I
all,
clusion that
I
have
experience which "
I
my European have since come to the con-
of the criticisms of
refrained.
I
lost
a wonderful and beautiful
may never
occur again.
know a story about the mountain
of Santubong.
SARAWAK AND Would Rajah Ranee as we stood looking replied
"
;
I
like to
hear
it ?
" said
193
my
friend,
"
Say on," I "In the days a holy man, whose name
at the mountain.
should well like to hear."
of long ago," she began, "
was Hassan,
lived
He
mountain.
PEOPLE
ITS
a house at the foot of
in
was a
Haji, for he
had been
to
this
Mecca,
and wore a green turban and long flowing robes. He read the Koran day and night, his prayers were incessant,
and the name of Allah was ever on
his lips.
His soul was white and exceedingly clean, and whenever he cut himself with his parang whilst hewing
down
the trees to
make
into canoes, the blood flowed
from the wound white as visited his
He
milk.^
occasionally
brothers and sisters living in
Kuching,
taking about half a day to accomplish the journey,
home by
but he was never away from his solitary
He
sea-shore for very long. beautiful
lady,
the
Spirit
the
never suspected that a
of
daughter of the moon, lived on
Santubong its
and the
highest peak, and
from thence had watched him admiringly on account One day she flew down into of his blameless life. the valley, entered his house, and
made
Their intercourse ripened into
him.
friends with
love, they
were
moon wafted her home beyond the clouds.
married, and the daughter of the
husband to
Haji
her
Haji Hassan and his spirit-wife lived for some years lofty region.
in this
that ^
it
An
those
They were such good people
seemed as though nothing could ever happen idea entertained
who lead holy 13
by some Sarawak Malays
lives is
white instead of red.
that the blood of
SARAWAK AND
194
ITS
PEOPLE
mar their happiness. But as time went on, the good man grew weary of this unalloyed happiness, and sighed for a change. From his home on the mountain-top he could see the roof of his little palmthatched house, where he had lived alone for so many years, and he could see the lights of the village near to
it
twinkling in the darkness of nights.
of his brothers and sisters
in
He
thought
Kuching, and of his
other friends living there, and a great longing
over him to return,
came
only for a short space of time,
if
to the grosser pleasures of earth.
" '
One day he spoke
for
what
to see
a
these words to his wife
:
my life and light of my eyes, forgive me am about to say. I want to go to Kuching
Delight of I
my
while.'
brothers and sisters, and to stay with
A
great
moon
sickness
of
them
heart seized the
him go, pledging him to return to her when a month had gone by. She called her servants and ordered them to prepare a boat to carry her husband to Kuching. So the Haji departed, and the days seemed long to the daughter of the moon. At length the Haji's time had expired, but week after week went by and his wife sat alone on her mountain peak, longing for his daughter of the
;
nevertheless, she let
return.
" Meanwhile, Haji
with his friends at deal of
;
Hassan was enjoying himself Kuching. He was made a great
bullocks were killed for his consumption at
great banquets in the houses of his friends, where he
was the honoured
guest,
and always the one chosen
to
SARAWAK AND admonish
his friends
PEOPLE
ITS
and give them lessons
conduct before the meal began. lionized
that he
195
forgot
In
good
he was so
waiting for him
wife
his
fact,
in
amongst the clouds at the top of Santubong. " Some months had elapsed, when one morning, as the Haji was returning from the river-bank where he had bathed and prayed before beginning the day, he looked towards the north and saw a great black cloud forming over the peak of the mountain then he suddenly remembered his wife. He hastily summoned his servants, and, when the boat was made ready, the tide and strenuous paddling of his crew bore him ;
He
speedily to the foot of Santubong.
steep sides and reached his
clambered
—only
home
to find
its it
empty and desolate, for the daughter of the moon had flown. At this the Haji's heart grew sick and he shed bitter tears. He went back to his relations at Kuching, and there became gloomy and silent, constantly sighing for the presence of his wife. "
the
One
evening,
Haji's
staring
at
called out,
Mount
a
man
landing-place,
the river.
'
in
a canoe passed by
where
he
Eh, Tuan
was
sitting,
Haji,' the
man
'your wife has been seen on the top of
Sipang,'
and quickly paddled
off.
The Haji
sprang into his canoe tied to the landing-place, unloosed of
its
moorings, and paddled himself to the foot
Mount Sipang.
He
rushed up to
but his wife was not there.
its
highest peak,
Subsequently he heard
news of her on Mount Serapi, the highest peak of the Matang range, but on reaching the mountain-top
SARAWAK AND
196'
ITS
PEOPLE
he was again disappointed.
Thus from mountain
peak
disconsolate
mountain peak
to
sought his wife the
all
the
husband
over Borneo, but the daughter of
moon had vanished
out of his
went back to Kuching, and soon
life
for ever.
after died of
He
a broken
heart."
This was the end of the
on
to explain that
mountain
is
story, but
my
friend
went
whenever the peak of the Santubong
bathed in moonlight the people imagine
the daughter of the
moon
is
revisiting her old
home.
was almost midnight. " I ask your leave to " I go. Rajah Ranee," my Malay companion said. hope you will sleep well." She walked away in the It
went
to
home
and I bed and dreamed about the Haji and his
moonlight to her
in the village below,
moonshine, whilst the talking trees outside told their secrets to the stars.
CHAPTER XXII
ONE
of
my places of predilection
called
is
Lundu.
It differs
in the
country
from most of the
other settlements in Sarawak by the fact that
a good deal of agriculture goes on in the neigh-
and that the country is flat near the Government Bungalow, We embarked for this place in the Aline, and although the water is shallow on bourhood,
the bar
when
we managed
the nine
to time our arrival at high tide,
necessary to
feet
float
our yacht
enabled us to steer our way comfortably into the river,
banks of which are sandy
the
Groves of talking
tufts of coarse grass
we proceeded nipa
palm
grew
were dotted over the sands.
As
the
soil
appeared.
became muddy and
We
mountain of Poe, three thousand towering inland.
mouth.
and
farther
forests
at the
close to the sea,
trees
It
is
could feet
in
see
the
height,
one of the frontiers between
the Dutch country and Sarawak, so that the Rajah and the Dutch Government each possess half of this
mountain.
It is
not so precipitous as
is
Santubong,
growing thickly right up to
and has
forest trees
the top.
Fishing stakes were sti-etched across some
of the sandbanks soul
was
at
to be seen
the
mouth, but not a living
on the sea-shore.
We steamed
SARAWAK AND
198
ITS
PEOPLE
through a broad morass, crossed in every direction
by
little
streams travelling
Farther on
we
down
to the
main
river.
noticed, about twenty or thirty yards
from the banks, a tree
full
a flaming torch
green gloom of the jungle.
No I
one could
in the
tell
me what
was deeply disappointed some of
the tree and obtain
of yellow blossoms, like
these blossoms were, and at
our inability to reach
its
branches, which might
unknown to science. It would have taken our sailors many hours to hew their way to it, so we contented ourselves with looking through opera as yet be
glasses, across a jungle of vegetation, at the
gorgeous
blossoms, although that did not help us to discover
what the
tree was.^
built near the river,
A
little
farther
on were huts
and we could see men
sitting
on
the rungs of ladders leading from their open doors to the water.
When we
arrived
at
Lundu, our friend
Mr.
Bloomfield Douglas, Resident of the place and living
Government bungalow situated a few yards from the river, came to meet us at the wharf, accompanied by a number of Dyaks. A Dyak chief styled the Orang Kaya Stia Rajah, with his wife and relations, came on board with Mr. Douglas in the comfortable
^ This tree, which no one could tell me the name of at the time, was the only one of its kind I had seen ; therefore, it was not strange I formed the idea it might be unknown to science. Its leafy image persisted in my mind, and the thought of it haunted me. I have now been informed that it is not unknown, and is a creeper, called Bauhinea, and not a tree
at
all.
Seen
at
a distance, its appearance is like that of a tree in completely covers and perhaps smothers the tree
blossom, for
it
upon which
fastens
it
—
itself.
—
SARAWAK AND
made
the conical hats of the country,
A
straw.
199
Both men and women wore
on shore.
to take us
PEOPLE
ITS
wood
piece of light
of the finest
delicately carved to
a point ornamented their tops, which were made
My
splendid with bright colours.
Dyak women, were
affectionate
my hand, by my side
took hold of gently back followed
sniffed ;
some
and at
They
kind.
it,
and
laid
it
Dyak men
of the
These people never
suit.
old friends, the
European
kiss in
fashion, but smell at the object of their affection or
reverence.
two
little
On
always
I
felt
on such occasions as though
holes were placed on the back of
my
hand.
the day of our arrival, the sun was blazing
it was fearfully hot. Our shadows were very short as we moved along, and the people
overhead and lined the
had
way
up
to the Resident's door.
We
everybody individually as we marched
to touch
along, even
right
babies in arms had their
little
hands
These greetings took the overpowering heat of midday, and
held out to touch our fingers.
some time in it was a great
relief
when
Douglas's pretty room,
at
last
we reached Mr.
which he had been wise
The enough to leave unpainted and unpapered. walls were made of the brown wood of the country, and were decorated with hanging baskets of orchids in full flower, vandalowis, philaenopsis, etc.
of brown, yellow, pink, white, and
hanging
in
fragile
and
of ferns
were
mauve blooms,
delicate cascades of colour
against the dark background.
pots
—a mass
placed
Rare and wonderful in my bedroom, and
SARAWAK AND
200
ITS
PEOPLE
quantities of roses, gardenias, jasmine,
and chimpakas
scented the whole place.
In the evening
we took a walk round
the settle-
The many plantations of Liberian coffee trees looked beautiful weighed down with green and scarlet ment.
some branches
berries,
The
blossoms.
still
and
contrast of berries
fields
in the landscape.
ful things,
red grapes.
These
latter are grace-
green bunches
like miniature clusters
of green and
In every corner or twist of the road
groups of
little
They
up
poles, with small
trained
hanging down
men and women
we
waiting for us.
stood in the ditches by the side of the paths
we came up
until
We went through
planted with tapioca and sugar-cane, and across
plantations of pepper vines.
met
flowers, with
made them a
the glossy dark green of the leaves,
charming picture
snowy
retaining their
to them,
when they jumped
out,
the backs of our hands, and more to the ditches without saying a word. During the night I heard the Argus pheasant
rushed at
us, sniffed at
retired once
crying in the woods, in response to distant thunder.
roam about the hill of Gading, by the bungalow and thickly covered with virgin forest. The sound they make is uncanny
These
beautiful birds
which
is
and
close
sorrowful, like the cry of lost souls
the sombre wilderness of innumerable to fathom the secrets of
wandering trees,
seeking
an implacable world.
sudden loud sound, as of a dead tree
an echo of terror from these
birds.
Any
falling or the
rumble of thunder, however remote, apparently forth
in
calls
MALAY STRIKING FIRE FROM DRY TINDER
SARAWAK AND The
ITS
PEOPLE
201
next evening the chief of the village invited
us to a reception at his house, situated a short distance from the bungalow.
It
was a
starlight
fine
and we walked there after dinner. The house was built much in the same way as are other Sea
night,
Dyak
houses, the flooring being propped on innumer-
able poles
about thirty feet from the ground.
A
broad verandah led into the living-rooms, but, as usual,
we had to climb a slender pole with notches all the way up, leaning at a steep angle against the verandah. The chief, with an air of pomp and majesty, helped me up the narrow way as though it were the stairway of a palace. magnificent.
with gold,
His manner was courtly and
his
costume
His jacket and trousers were braided
and the sarong round
his
waist
was
fastened with a belt of beaten gold.
The house was
Dyaks who had Chinamen resident in the Malays from over the Dutch border, and even a
come from place,
far
and
of people
full
:
near.
few Hindoos, or Klings, were to be seen.
The
chief
took us to the place prepared for us at the end of the verandah, where was hung a canopy of golden
embroideries and
brocades.
stiff
Branches of sugar-
canes and the fronds of betel-nut palms decorated the poles of the verandah,
lamps hung from the
I
sat
great
many
lighted
and the floor was covered Bertram, Mr. Douglas, Dr,
roof,
with fine white mats.
Langmore, and
A
on
chairs, whilst the rest of the
guests squatted on mats laid on the
The women and young
floor.
girls sat
near me, one of
SARAWAK AND
202 the
latter,
PEOPLE
ITS
whose name was Madu (meaning honey), Hfer petticoat of coarse
being very pretty indeed.
was narrow and hardly reached her knees, and over this she wore a dark blue cotton
dark cotton
neck with gold buttons as big Her eyes were dark, beautiful and
jacket, fastened at the
as small saucers.
and her straight eyebrows drooped
keenly
intelligent,
a
at the outer corners.
little
characteristic of her race,
The high
gave
cheek-bones,
her a certain air of
refinement and delicacy, in spite of her nose being flat,
her nostrils broad, and her
what
thick.
Her
hair
lips
was pulled
wide and some-
tightly off her fore-
head, and lay in a coil at the nape of her neck
;
it
and as she carried her head very high, the great mass looked as though it dragged it backwards. Her hair, however, had one peculiarity
seemed too heavy
(a peculiarity
I
for her,
had never seen
in
Sarawak before)
;
it
was streaked with red, and this made Madu unhappy, for Malays and Dyaks do not like the slightest appearance of red hair, some of the tribes shaving their children's
heads from early infancy until they
are seven years old, in order to avoid the possibility of such an occurrence.
The
little
creature looked
pathetic, as she sat nursing her sister's baby,
whose
wrist
was
small cannon-ball. old,
and appeared
tied
a black wooden
rattle,
around like
a
The baby was about two months to
be healthy, but a sudden kick
removed a piece of calico, its only article of clothing, when I saw that the child's stomach had on
its
part
been rubbed over with turmeric, to prevent
it
from
SARAWAK AND being seized by the his
demon
PEOPLE
ITS
The
of disease.
daughter to leave the child to
203
its
very old lady rushed forward and took
chief told
nurse, it
away.
We had
Refreshments were then handed round. glasses
of cocoa-nut milk,
cocoa-nut and of rice
cakes
made
much
right
diluted with water, were
and
down
handed
after refreshments a place
There
Glasses of to the
male
was cleared
the room, the chief's native friends sitting
on mats on the
The
grated
in quarters, together
with oranges, bananas, and mangosteens.
guests,
of
flour, intensely sweet.
were large trays of pumeloes, cut gin,
when a
floor,
leaning against the walls.
orchestra was placed on one side of the
seven or eight
hall.
a set of gongs, called the Kromang,
It consisted of
in
number, decreasing
in size, fixed in
a wooden frame, each gong sounding a different note
—a
scale, in fact.
individual,
These gongs are beaten by one
and when
running water.
skilfully
played they sound like
Other members of the orchestra
played gongs hung singly on poles, and there were
drums beaten at both ends with the musician's fingers. These instruments played in concert and with remarkable rhythm were pleasant to listen to. When the band had finished the overture, two young men got up after an immense amount of persuasion, and walked shyly to the middle of the cleared space. trousers, They were dressed in Malay clothes jackets, and sarongs and smoking-caps, ornamented with tassels, were placed on one side of their heads. also
—
—
They
fell
down suddenly
in front of us, their
hands
SARAWAK AND
204
cksped
above their heads,
foreheads touched slowly, looked at
and bowed
their
till
Then they got up
floor.
one another, giggled, and walked
The master
away.
the
PEOPLE
ITS
of the house explained that they
were shy, and thought
their
conduct quite natural.
was evidently the thing to do, for several other At last couples went through this same pantomime. back, when couple come the first were induced to their shyness vanished, and the performance began. One of the dancers held two flat pieces of wood in each hand, clicking them together like castanets. It
The
other
man danced
with china saucers held in each
hand, keeping time to the orchestra by hitting the saucers with rings of gold which he wore on each
He
forefinger.
was as
skilful as
seen, for he twisted the saucers
rings hitting against
them
wonderful accuracy.
The
I
had
round and round, his
time to the music with
dancers were never
still
for
Their arms waved about, their bodies
a second.
swayed
in
any juggler
on one knee with the other leg outstretched before them, then on the to
and
fro,
they knelt
sometimes bending
other,
the floor-
— the
ful,
and
stiff",
their bodies in a line with
castanets and the saucers being kept
Although the movements
going the whole time. looked
first
for them to be ungracenew pose they managed to fall into arrangement of lines. The dances were
it
was impossible
at every
a delightful
evidently inspired by
Malay
artists,
formed by Dyaks, for they were
Other dances followed,
all
full
although per-
of restraint.
interesting
and
pretty.
SARAWAK AND Sometimes empty cocoa-nut placed in patterns on the
up one
in
PEOPLE
ITS
205
were
shells, cut in two,
The
floor.
dancers picked
each hand, clashing them together like
cymbals, whilst hopping in and out of the other cocoanuts, this
performance being called by the people " the
mouse-deer dance,"
made by
for they
imagine that the noise
clashing the cocoa-nut shells resembles the
cry of plandoks (mouse-deer) in the forests.
After the
men had
These wore
came.
finished,
stiff
hanging from
under
almost to the
floor,
the women's turn
petticoats of gold brocade,
armpits and
their
reaching
under which were dark blue
The
Madu,
cotton draperies hiding their
feet.
with the red-streaked
headed a procession of
about thirty young
hair,
women and
pretty
who emerged
girls,
from the open doorway at the other end of the room, in single
file.
They
stretched out their arms in a line
with their shoulders, and waved their hands slowly
from the
wrists.
Their sleeves were open and hung
from the elbow weighted with rows upon rows of golden knobs.
With
their eyes cast
down, they looked as though they
heads on one side and
their
were
crucified against invisible crosses,
down
the middle of the
us,
hall.
,
When
and wafted
they approached
they swayed their bodies to right and
extended their arms, beating the hands, keeping exactly in
line,
air gently
Madu
and
with their
and followed Madu's
gestures so accurately that from where
only see
left
I
stood
as she headed the dancers.
I
It
could
would
be interesting to know the origin of such dances.
I
SARAWAK AND
2o6
imagine the
How
ITS
PEOPLE
Hindoo element pervades them
all.
surprised these so-called savages would be
they were present at some
and short
stiff
skirts,
ballet,
with
women
if
in tights
kicking their legs about, or
pirouetting on one toe, for these natives are innately artistic, if
kept away from the influence of European
and its execrable taste. Each time a movement more graceful than the last was accomplished by these young women, the men evinced their approbation by
art
opening their mouths and
yelling,
without showing any
other signs of excitement on their immovable faces.
The dances went on
for
some
time, after which
wrestling matches took place between
boys of
little
When
the tribe, about eleven or twelve years of age.
one of these small wrestlers was defeated he never
showed bad temper or appeared maliciously disposed towards his conqueror.
We we
all
enjoyed ourselves, and
left this
hospitable house.
was
it
The
late
chief
when
and
daughters offered us more cocoa-nut milk,
his
cakes,
and bananas, and the leave-taking took some time.
One
old
Sea Dyak, who had been very conspicuous
during the evening, for he had bounded about and joined in the dances, took
my hand
the han6 of a friend of
his,
another Sea Dyak,
he particularly vvished
me to notice. my friends are
friends," I
hope
I
he
said,
"for
and put
it
into
whom
"You make your friends."
responded sympathetically, and after a while
we managed to drag ourselves away. Our hosts escorted us back to Mr. Douglas's
SARAWAK AND bungalow.
ITS
PEOPLE
207
hand with the chief, and Bertram followed, hand in hand with the chiefs son, who kept assuring Bertram that he felt very happy, because they had become brothers, for was not Rajah Ranee, his mother, walking home hand in hand with his father, and as he was doing the same with her son, that quite settled the relationship.
The
I
hand
led the way,
in
way home, and
orchestra followed us the whole
the people sang choruses to impromptu words, com-
posed in our honour by the poet of the
me
chief told its
the song was
words were
A
in
as
manah
had
as
the night fine and the
left
we went through avenues
palms and over carpets of lemon spikes beaten
The
tribe.
" (beautiful),
honour of Bertram and me.
recent shower
air cool,
"
grass,
by the
over the path
delightful
fragrance crushed by so
crossed a
little
of betel-nut
whose long gave a
rain
many
feet.
We
bridge over a bubbling stream, and
passed by Chinese houses, whose inhabitants opened their
windows
When we
to
look at our midnight procession.
reached the bungalow, the arbor
night- flowering jasmine
was
in
bloom
tristis
or
over the
all
garden, and white moon-flower bells hung wide open
Half an hour
over the verandah. out of the window of
my
bedroom,
the people singing on their
The
trees in the
later, I
way back
garden were
full
of
as
could
I
leaned
still
hear
to the village. fireflies
looking
like stars entangled in the branches.
We
left
Lundu
the
next day with regret.
were sorry to say good-bye to our kind
host,
We Mr.
2o8
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
Douglas, and to the Dyaks of the place, and as
steamed away I
may be
I felt
almost inclined to cry.
Although
accused of being unduly emotional,
not ashamed to
own
Sarawak settlements heart behind.
that after a visit in I
always
left
we
I
am
any of the
a piece of
my
;
CHAPTER
WHEN
XXIII
Bertram and
the things
had
I
my
early days of
was delighted
my
regions
these
this
later
Haji
who had
Rejang
the
to
tell
in
The
him about Sibu.
were lived over again, and
I
see the interest he took in the
to
smallest details of in
life
way up
he was much interested
to Kanowit, all
stopped at Sibu for
I
a few days on our
so
first
many
years
Bampfylde
Mr.
visit,
and most
interesting stay
During
before.
told
me
of
a
experienced an interesting and some-
what alarming adventure with a wished to hear the
from the
tale
sea-serpent. ijian's
own
As
lips,
I
Mr.
him the next morning. Haji Matahim was a typical Malay from Sambas. He
Bampfylde sent for lived
at
Sibu with his
relations.
He
possessed a
schooner
of about 200 tons, and Dutch Settlements, to Rhio, and to Singapore. His face was round and short he had a receding chin and a protruding upper lip, shaded by a black and bristly moustache. He was flat between the eyes, and his complexion was rather darker than most Malays, being tanned by exposure
trading
small
made voyages
and sea
He 14
to the
air.
told
me
that
about two or three months
SARAWAK AND
210
before the time of which
ITS
PEOPLE
write he
I
was
from
sailing
Pontianak, a place in Dutch Borneo, with a cargo for
Singapore.
an island
One day he was becalmed not far from called Rhio, when his ship was suddenly
by an extraordinary shoal of fishes. As the fish swarmed round the ship, the crew managed to haul them up with buckets and baskets, capturing them in enormous quantities. Having no surrounded
salt
on board, with which to preserve the
crew,
eight
in
number,
cleaned them
there
then on the vessel's deck, and threw the the sea.
Haji Matahim was standing
looking at this extraordinary capture, the rudder chain snapped. the way,
for
mended with a
it
fish,
the
and
offal into
in the
bows
when suddenly
This was nothing out of
had previously been broken and
piece of wire.
The Haji and
his
crew
were busily discussing how best they could remedy the accident, when a man in the stern saw a floating mass of " something," striped white and green, lying
motionless under the clear surface of the water.
He
rushed up to the Haji and told him what he had seen,
whereupon the Haji ordered the lead to be thrown over which this unlooked-for object
to ascertain the depth at
The lead gave only six fathoms, whereas that particular region the it is well known that in Then the Haji saw sea is about fifty fathoms deep. was
a
lying.
flat,
monstrous head rising out of the water, some
ten or twelve yards from the vessel, the schooner's
The head was bows floating between its eyes. Hke that of a fish, and, according to the Haji's
:
SARAWAK AND
PEOPLE
ITS
211
account, the eyes looked like two round balls stuck at the
end of
time
the
spikes,
seven or eight inches long
was
observation
for
monster remained motionless
The Haji and speak,
his
crew were too time
but after a
as
sufficient,
the
about half an hour.
for
terrified to
move
or
they collected their Wits
together sufficiently to procure some tuba and garlic
(stowed on board for cases of emergency), which they
hung over
the side of the ship, whereupon the beast
slowly sank and disappeared.
I
could not find out
from the Haji how much the water was troubled when the monstrous head plunged back again into the sea, for if
the beast had bpen of such extraordinary dimensions,
it
must have caused some motion
ever slowly
it
to their vessel,
The Haji was and he told me at
went under.
coherent on the subject,
how-
not very the time
up trading voyages for the Subsequently he changed his mind
that he intended giving rest of his
life.
and continued his trading excursions schooner for some years afterwards. Personally
whatever
it
I
am
in
the
same
inclined to think that the creature,
was, could not very well have remained
motionless for the length of time as stated by the Haji, but lips.
I
give his tale as
Mr. Bampfylde told
trouble to question separately,
and the
every respect with
me
from his
own
members
of the crew
by the Haji tallied in have related this story
am
not pre-
whether
it
struck
me
I
it
that he had taken the
of the
tale told theirs.
took
to enter into the old controversy as to
because
pared
some
I
as interesting, but
SARAWAK AND
212
the sea-serpent exists or not.
even the
It
is
It
has been said that
now keeping an open mind on
scientists are
the question.
PEOPLE
ITS
Well,
I
am
going to do the same.
perhaps necessary to say that garlic plays a
great part in the superstitious rites of
and
I
some Malays,
was firmly convinced
believe the Haji
that the
make
tuba and garlic together were quite sufficient to the monster disappear.
A
day or two afterwards we embarked on the
Lucille,
a small steamer of forty tons kept
for
the
use of the Rajah's officers at Sibu, and started in the
As we
cold mists of morning for Kapit.
way round
a
somewhat
difficult point,
down by a
of driftwood borne
rains during the night, our vessel
heeled over a snag.
forced our
through a mass
freshet, after
bumped
heavy
against and
Great trunks of trees swirled
and eddied round the ship at this spot, and the Malay at the wheel changed from one leg to the other, cleared his throat perpetually, frowned, and stared
vacantly ahead until the corner was rounded, the
mass of driftwood passed, and the danger
over.
Although the steersman handled the ropes very gently, as though fearful of breaking them, he got over
the
with
little
incident,
difficulties
waste
of
with
the
energy.
we went on our
greatest
After
solitary
ease
this
and
trifling
way, our steam-
launch the only living thing in this wilderness of wood and water. Farther up the river the years that
had passed by since
my
first
had brought peace, comfort,
visit
trade,
to
the district
and commerce
SARAWAK AND the
to
and
river-side,
ments.
It
was
one
interesting
that the beneficent
efforts
PEOPLE
ITS or to
new
two
notice
of our
missionaries were bearing splendid
213 settle-
Kanowit
at
Roman
Catholic
The
fruit.
mis-
sionary fathers have built there a substantial and
handsome church
their school, also,
;
A
group of nuns have which
by,
good
is
remarkable
is
Dyak and Chinese
for the efficiency of their
scholars.
up a school for girls, near attended and productive of
set
being well
The
results in the civilization of the people.
Roman
Catholic methods of teaching these native
children are excellent.
It
would take too long to
them in full, but the blameless lives of these men and women, who have cast away all thoughts of comfort in the world and elected to throw in their lots for ever amongst the aborigines, cannot fail to impress the people amongst whom they live. Spiritually and materially their beneficent influence describe
is felt
throughout the land, and when
we
are gathered
to our
ancestors and the tales of these rivers are
told,
believe
I
it
will
be known that one of the
advancement of Sarawork of Roman Catholic
principal factors in the spiritual
wak
is
largely due to the
missionaries.
Farther up the
river,
we passed another
small
settlement of recent growth, called Song, where a small Fort stands on the top of one of the
shelving into the river.
Along the
little hills
road, lining the
bank, stood a row of Chinese houses, and a footpath,
made
of
wooden planks and supported on
poles,
was
SARAWAK AND
214
ITS
PEOPLE The banks were
crowded with Dyaks and Chinamen.
covered with bundles of rattans, brought from the Mats, baskets, cordage for ships, flooring
interior.
for houses,
are usually
etc.,
made
of rattans.
The
Tanjong people are about the best basket-makers of the country, and the wild Punans make the best mats. At this spot, where the trade in rattans is active, we saw up-river Dyaks hurrying up the steep banks with loads of rattan and gutta-percha, on their way to sell them to Chinamen, A great many boats, full
of produce, were anchored to the banks, waiting
their turn to
be unloaded.
The
crowded with almost naked people,
wore
Even
waistcloths.
pigtails twisted
Bazaar was
little
for
they only
the Chinamen,
with their
round their heads, had nothing on
No women
but cotton drawers.
men looked
and the jumping or clambering
Having passed
like in
were
to
be seen,
long brown-legged spiders,
and out of the water.
this spot of activity in
a desert of
leaves and water, reach after reach was rounded, where
we met
company but that of hawks flying rather low overhead, of brown moths so large that I mistook them for birds, and of butterflies, blue, yellow, and white, appearing here and there over the mud-banks in clusters of delicate colours. About six in the evening we reached Kapit. The Fort stands on a hill, and steps cut out in the sharp, steep banks lead up to its front door. It stands some with no other
forty feet
above the
rainy season,
level of ordinary tides, but in the
when heavier
freshets than those in the
SARAWAK AND season collect up
fine
to reach several feet
As
river,
ITS
PEOPLE
215
the water has been
known
above the flooring of the Fort.
was dropped near the wooden wharf, a crowd of Chinamen, Dyaks, Tanjongs, and Kayans, rushed from the Bazaar and helped to carry our luggage. We had brought our Chinese cook with us, and he struggled up the bank with cages full of cocks and hens which he had brought from Sibu. Some of the people carried my dressing-bag and rugs, Mr. Bampfylde's, Dr. Langmore's, and Bertram's portmanteaux were seized and borne to the Fort by Kayans with their hair streaming over their the anchor
All these people talked at once, ordered
shoulders.
one another about, exclaiming, screaming, and hustling
most good-humoured and merry fashion. Suddenly the crowd fell back, as a rather
in the
dark,
meet "
stout,
man came down the path to This was F. Domingo de Rosario (called by his friends), Commandant of Kapit Fort.
middle-aged us.
Mingo "
His father was
Mingo had come
a Portuguese from Malacca, and
Sarawak during the reign of the first Rajah Brooke, to whom he was butler. Mingo was born in Sarawak, and was educated at the Protestant Mission at Kuching, and when old enough to join the Rajah's service he was sent to the Rejang district, where he has remained ever since. Mingo is well acquainted with the wild inhabitants in his
them.
With
to
district,
and
is
much beloved by
his burly figure, his dark, kindly face,
his utter disregard to personal danger, and,
above
all,
SARAWAK AND
216
PEOPLE
ITS
way he has of looking at life as a huge joke, Dyaks often compare him to " Simpurei," one of
for the
the
their jolly war-gods,
Mingo has been through strange adventures, fought many battles, and on one occasion, many years ago, was attacked in a place called Ngmah, where a Fort had been erected, but which has long since l?een pulled down and dismantled. In these quieter days, when life on the banks of the Rejang is comparatively free
from danger, Mingo
sometimes heard to regret
is
the fine old times
when
petual excitement.
Notwithstanding these drawbacks,
was spent
his time
in per-
He
he takes the change philosophically enough.
who
married to a Tanjong woman, of him,
takes great care
and they have a daughter named Madu
(meaning honey), to
We
is
whom
he
is
much
down comfortably
settled
A
the days passed quickly by.
in
attached.
Kapit Fort, and
constant stream of
Dyaks and Kayans came from the countryside to see us, for Mr. Bampfylde had made them aware of our intention to visit Bdaga, a place some three weeks' journey by boat, situated at the head-waters of the
Rejang
— Belaga
our journey up this
wish to
visit
all
being the real object of
Knowing my
river.
the places
I
possibly
intense
could,
Mr.
Bampfylde had suggested this trip to Bertram and myself. The great charm of the undertaking lay
in
the
fact
that
to
get to
Belaga innumer-
able rapids had to be surmounted, and
go through an
interesting
we had
to
stretch of country lying
SARAWAK AND between Kapit and ally the land of
PEOPLE
this distant Fort, for
Kayan
along the banks of
Rejang are
ITS
people,
those
217
it is
essenti-
and here and there
higher reaches of
the
be seen interesting and wonderful
to
monuments of Kayan industry, in the shape of tombs carved by the people containing the remains of their most
famous
chiefs.
On
such
expeditions,
it
is
customary for the people of the country to paddle the boats in which the Rajah or his family
up these
difficult
and sometimes dangerous
like giant stairways,
Many
make
of the
excursions cataracts,
which lead into the interior.
chiefs
and people who came
to
Kapit were old friends of mine, whilst others were strangers, for only the year before a head-hunting
craze
had broken out
one of the most smiling
the
neighbourhood, and
chiefs,
named Rawieng, who
in
came to greet us on this occasion, had been attacked by the Government, his house burned down, and his possessions taken from him, owing to members of his tribe taking heads of innocent people living
well, for
Rawieng took his punishment he bore no malice, and stretched his hand
out to us
all
in the
remote
interior.
with the utmost cordiality.
Although the greetings
I
received at the hands
of these chiefs were usually hearty and affectionate, I
thought on this occasion their manner was more
and the reason came out before long. Having been summoned by Mr. Bampfylde to paddle my boat and accompany me to Belaga, they imagined I intended going on the warpath. friendly than usual,
SARAWAK AND
2i8
ITS
PEOPLE
This idea pleased them much, and great was their disappointment when Mr. Bampfylde informed them that
my
journey was quite a peaceful one.
But our cherished plans were doomed
When
all
voyage,
to failure.
preparations were completed for our great
the
weather
behaved
manner
for that time of the
July, at
which period,
heavy storms of after our arrival
year
in the
in ;
for
for
we were then
in
ordinary course of things,
However, the day nights, heavy
rain are rare.
and
an unexpected
many days and
storms of rain thundered on the roof of the Fort,
and the water of the river almost flooded the banks on which it stood. Tree-trunks, leafy branches, fruits, berries, and even blossoms, were torn from the banks
and swept along in the angry stream, and it seemed as though the bad weather would never come to an end. The rapids in the neighbourhood were insurmountable, and day after day the chiefs, Mr. Bampfylde, and ourselves discussed the situation, Mingo, wondering whether or no it would be safe to face such The Sea Dyaks, who thickly populate this torrents.
2
ft,
^
^
i
-3-
^
,>^.
Ir''
9.
t
;
.-'.
v;f
!,
,
^4
1 ^i-' .
;l
•i|; J
-
Z:
"
SARAWAK AND
PEOPLE
ITS
289
Malay houses, devoid of orchards or gardens, stood on poles amongst the weeds on the banks. On platforms of crazy planks, where Malays husk their paddy, jutting out from these houses, dilapidated coxcombs planted
about twenty yards
in
kerosene
old
wide.
struggled
tins
uncongenial surroundings.
A
to
path
live
made
in
their
of single
bamboos, dovetailing into each other, led from the
A
cottages to the river.
ing a bamboo, fetch water
came out
from the
man on
the bank, shoulder-
of one of these houses to
river.
He was
met with a
storm of scornful remarks from our crew, as Malay
men are supposed to leave water-carrying to the women of their household. A little farther on was the Borneo Company Ltd.'s wharf, whence the antimony and quicksilver is shipped to Kuching and thence and Europe.
to Singapore
A tramway starts from the some miles
inland.
Mr. Awdry, one of the Rajah's
officers
landing-place, leading to the mines
We found and a great Wharf.
We
friend
of
then got
awaiting
ours,
into
us
a horse-truck
at
the
kindly
put at our disposal by the Manager of the Mines, furnished with mattresses and pillows, and comfortably travelled over the four miles separating us from the
bungalow. the
hill
down
Mrs.
Awdry met
us at the bottom
leading to her house.
of
As we clambered
from the truck, which was pretty high, a con-
course of Chinamen,
who had come
to
meet
us, started
beating their gongs, blowing into instruments sounding like bagpipes, and waving banners, whilst others 19
SARAWAK AND
290
hanging from iron
set fire to piles of crackers,
The
PEOPLE
ITS
tripods,
was steep and, as we headed the procession, the orchestra and bannerall along the road.
hill
bearers, in the exuberance of their welcome, followed closely at our heels, so that
we were pushed forward
by our noisy welcomers, until
up the
immediately
behind
a crowd of
The
me.
din
was
but the people meant well, and, although short
of breath from for their
my exertions,
I
managed
kind reception as soon as
From
I
to
thank them
reached the top.
the verandah of the house a great stretch
of country could be seen. hills
found myself racing
incline like a panting hare, with
pursuers fearful,
I
There were curious-shaped
of limestone sticking up singly here
and
there,
although, viewed from Kuching, they appear like a
chain of mountains.
One
of them,
called
Sebigi,
stood out from' the plain like a great green thumb.
Although
forest
droughts are called
fires
rare,
are unusual in Sarawak, for
the whole of one of these
hills,
Jambusan, was a mass of burnt trees with
the limestone showing through the charred stumps.
No
one knew how the
fire
had occurred, but
it
was conjectured that the rubbing together of the bamboos in the wind during the dry weather had caused them to ignite. With the exception of to
charred hillock, the house
we were
seemed be the centre of a sea of green waves. Along
this
in
the valleys were small Chinese gardens, these people, as
is
well
known, being excellent
Here were pumpkins, water melons,
agriculturists.
scarlet runners,
SARAWAK AND
PEOPLE
ITS
291
sweet potatoes, maize, and a kind of native spinach
growing magnificently.
There were small ponds on those beautiful pink and white lotuses,
which floated
the Chinese cultivating the flowers as food for their
A
pigs. flat
hot spring bubbled up somewhere in the
ground near by,
district
bathed
English
cattle
its
temperature being about
The Chinese and Dyaks
100° Fahrenheit.
in its
of the
waters as a cure for rheumatism.
were grazing here and
and the
there,
place looked prosperous and peaceful.
The day after our arrival at Paku an individual named Pa Baniak (meaning Father of plenty) came
He
his tribe.
was
situated
mountains
and
accompanied by two members of
to see me,
stout,
his chin.
in
the
the
neighbourhood.
his
He
village
limestone
of
slope
steep
was short
and a few white bristles sprouted over He wore Chinese drawers, a dirty white
cotton jacket,
round
twisted
was a Land Dyak and on
and a dark blue handkerchief was his
head.
He
screwed into the rims of his
were necessary to
had wooden
ears,
his comfort for
discs
which, he said,
two reasons
:
firstly,
they made his hearing more acute, and secondly, they pleased the crocodiles.
and river,
his tribe
he
felt
He
told us that although
were constantly fishing
the main
sure that none of these monsters would
attempt to eat any of them. inquiry,
in
he
In response to
he related the following story
—
not,
my
however,
before he had risen, coughed, spat out of the verandah,
taken hold of the
tips of
my
fing^prs,
passed the back
— SARAWAK AND
292
hand across
of his
his place
on the
"Malays before the
they did
his nostrils,
floor
and then returned
good people," he said, "and white Rajah came to our country,
are not
first
many wicked
In the time of long
things.
crocodile
of him, because he tied a
;
this
was treacherous
to
a wooden hpok
dog
attached to a long piece of rattan which he fast to river.
to
:
Malay caught a
ago, a
PEOPLE
ITS
made
leaving its loose end floating on the howled and attracted a hungry dog The
a
crocodile,
tree,
who swam
warnings of his
spite
of the
bird,
he snapped at the bait
dog and hook
the
joyfully to
friend,
He
spot,
and, in
the
alligator
swallowed the
one gulp, when the hook fixed
at
Malay had intended, and the beast could neither swallow the hook nor spit it up, and therefore his jaw was prised open. The Malay, seeing the loose end of the rattan floating itself in his throat,
down
the
river,
was too quick
as the
paddled
after
it,
but
the
beast
away from the Land member of Pa Baniak's
him, and got
for
country near the sea to the country of the
Dyaks, more inland. tribe,
A
passing by in a canoe, noticed the crocodile's
open jaw and
felt
sorry
for
him.
The
crocodile
begged the man to put his arm down his throat and wrench the hook away. Thir^king it might be dangerous, the Dyak did. not much like the task, and inquired what the crocodile would do for
eat
I promise never to attack or him in return. any member of your tribe,' said the crocodile. '
SARAWAK AND The man thought was made,
The
after
operation
deliverer,
thrust
and
wooden
a
this
fair offer,
the
over,
him
some other
To
prove
informed
me
and the compact
all
the hook.
thanked
crocodile
warn
to
his
his
people to
discs in the cartilage of their ears, so
that crocodiles should not mistake
of
293
man removed
which the
told
PEOPLE
ITS
them
for
members
tribe."
the
truth
only
that,
of
this
tale,
Pa
a
few
days
before
man
Baniak our
tribe
had
been seized by a crocodile as he was taking
fruit
arrival
at
Paku, a young
of his
from his orchard down the river to the Kuching market.
With a
switch of
the canoe up in the in hand,
was
air,
falling
beast noticed the
and as
into
wooden
man's flesh did not taste
its tail
made
occupant, paddle
formidable jaws, the
its
and finding that the he threw him on shore
discs,
nice,
and went away snorting with I
its
the animal sent
disgust.
Bertram and
ejaculations of approval at the end of this
and Pa Baniak was mightily pleased at the effect he had produced. Although four or five miles away, the trees on tale,
the top of Singghi mountain stood out distinctly that
afternoon in the lurid light of an approaching thunderstorm.
His thumbs pointing said, "
in the direction of the
up there, and my tribe has made wooden images of men and women to keep them amused. If ever the trees on the top mountain, Pa Baniak
Antus
live
of Singghi are cut down, leaving the antus without either playground or shelter, they
would roam amongst
;
SARAWAK AND
294
ITS
PEOPLE
the trees in the pjain and tease the people living
We
there." little
time,
instance,
listened to
and he told
about
the
Pa Baniak's
many
us
talk for
some
as
things,
men
consequences of
terrible
eating the flesh of deer, which
for
made them cowards
of the importance of being burned instead of buried in
the
earth,
in
order
that
one's
relations
could
by the direction of the smoke whether or no But at length the dead had started for Paradise. we became tired and allowed him to depart. He rose slowly, grunted, scratched himself under his
tell
armpits, took a
hanging at
little
his waist,
brass bell off the sirih basket
and gave
it
preserve you from lightning, snake
he his
said.
way
distance,
Then, followed by downstairs.
to
me.
bites,
"It
and antus,"
his attendants,
he made
Thunder was growling
and drops of rain were
will
in the
falling as the trio
went out of the house, each opening Chinese umbrellas keep the rain off their naked bodies, for most Sarawak natives imagine that rain falling on their skin We watched them as they went brings on malaria. along the plain in single file then the rain came down in torrents, blotting them out from view.
to
;
CHAPTER XXXI
ONE
morning Bertram and I, accompanied by Mr. Frank Maxwell, Mr. Awdry, and Dr.
Langmore, started from Kuching launch on an expedition to
Dyak
settlement.
Malay
villages
Up with
the
Munggo
in
Babi,
a steam
Land
a
Sadong River we passed
palm-leaf houses erected on
poles and standing in the mud.
A
few ragged flags
of red, white, blue, and yellow, on long thin sticks, fluttered along the
women and for they
banks near Chinese houses, where
children set
fire
to
bunches of crackers,
On
had somehow got wind of our journey.
the banks grew great, sweet-smelling, white
lilies,
by the natives "bungga bakong," but by European scientists Crinum Northianum, because they were first made known to European botanists by Miss North's pictures. They looked like crowns of great white stars resting on green and glossy called
lance-like leaves.
We
Malay house at a village called Gading. The house was made of palm leaves, and the the poles supporting it stood on the mud whole construction was lashed together by rattans, as no nail or peg is ever used by the poorer Malays Clean mats in building such humble dwellings. slept in a
:
395
SARAWAK AND
296
were
laid
upon the
ITS
and
floor,
PEOPLE I
noticed that one
portion of the roof was used as a storeroom, whilst scattered about the floor were large water-jars
and
cooking-pans.
At night, as
on the
heard the incoming tide gurgling, as
floor,
were, under
and
I
my
on a mattress stretched
Frogs, insects,
pillow.
it
nightbirds,
grotesque or beautiful,
of creatures,
sorts
all
lay
I
whistled, and coughed, sounding like the and rough jabbering of drunken men and there were hummings, moanings, murmurings the
hooted, shrill
;
—
cogitations, so to speak, of spirits of the darkness
and
evil, all
me as if I were amongst them. I
heard as distinctly by
mud
resting outside in the
right
thought of crocodiles moving through the slime, until I
and almost welcomed the homely flea. Then morning
terrified,
felt
sensation of being bitten by a
dawned, the sun came I felt
and with
out,
that sense of security
for at the
But
dawn
we none
The
the launch early. the banks were
full
river
as large as soup-plates,
We embarked
on
soon narrowed, and its
leaves, pale yellow flowers
its
carmine-coloured buds, and
clustered, bullet-shaped, its
open pods revealing
seeds of a ravishing coral colour,
Wormia.
of us can account
of that beautiful shrub with
enormous deeply-indented
I
joyous advent
of day.
to return to our journey.
certain, but
its
I
am
not quite
think the plant must be a species of
Then
there were screw pines growing
near the mud, from which strong fibre can be obtained,
their
beautiful
red
fruits
nestling
in
their
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
297
reminding one of gigantic strawberries.
roots,
saw
I
dark green small-leaved shrubs starred over with
waxy
sweet- smelling blossoms, rather like stephanotis,
and mauve, yellow, and pink convolvuli
throttled
great trees in the entariglement of their embrace.
A
large grey bird flew from out the
alighted
lilies,
on a piece of driftwood, and was borne down the stream.
We
passed a place called Tana Mera (red
bank is the grave of an exceedingly righteous Malay gentleman whom the people called Datu Sumbang Kring. He
earth)
lived
where
many
life still
at a
little
distance from the
years ago, but the influence- of his holy
endures, and the people in the neighbourhood
how he taught every one and how he spread abroad the
are never tired of relating to
be kind and good,
precepts of that holy book, the Koran.
make but,
the
out
how
long ago this righteous
according to the people, first
it
I
life
could not
was
lived,
was many years before
Rajah Brooke came to Sarawak.
Tana Mera, snags stuck up in all bed of the river. Some Land Dyaks
After passing directions in the
from
Munggo Babi came
them canoes last stages of
in
to
meet
us,
bringing with
which we were to accomplish the
our journey.
I
noticed
how
different
Land Dyaks were to Kayans, Malays, or Sea Dyaks. They were tall and slender with well-shaped
these
noses, arched eyebrows, their faces
more pronounced
chins,
and
were oval and longer than were the faces
of the other inhabitants of Sarawak.
Their colour,
however, was the same, but instead of the bright,
SARAWAK AND
298
PEOPLE
ITS
laughing, bustling habits of the other people, they
wore an expression of profound melancholy. A Malay Haji had come with them to meet us and to direct proceedings. Our canoes had to be pushed through labyrinths of snags and other impedi-
At one
ments barring our progress.
part of the
men in our canoe had to cut down snag before we could proceed further. When
journey the a
was accomplished, they began
this
success, but the
pointing to a
Haji remonstrated with them, and
tall
Tapang
tree towering pver
jungle near the banks told them that the of bees at
clinging to
the
noise,
he
yelling,
He we
their
at
to yell
so
swarm
branches would be angry
its
that
feared
the
if
the
the crew did not stop
insects
might
attack
us.
added, however, that the day being showery, did not run the
were
same
Tapang
though the day
trees rise to a height of over
feet without a branch.
round,
one hundred
Their trunks are smooth and
and swarms of bees often hang
branches. the wax.
pegs
risks as
fine.
in
their
Dyaks climb them at night to obtain The ascent is made by means of bamboo
driven
into
trunk
the
above the climber's
and takes several are scared from their nests with a lighted torch, after which the wax is taken with impunity. The wax is sold at Kuching and forms one of the exports of the country. A great hindrance to the Dyaks who go in search of head, so that the ascent
hours to accomplish.
is
slow,
The bees
SARAWAK AND commodity
this
is
the
little
ITS
Two
299
honey bear that roams
about the forests of Sarawak, of stealing
PEOPLE
for
it
is
very fond
and eating the honey from these
hives.
or three specimens of this animal are to be
seen in the London Zoological Gardens.
Muhggo Babi
lies at
thousand feet high.
we had
the foot of a mountain two
In order to reach the village
to leave our canoes at the landing-place
proceed up a path for three miles or
so.
and
We found a
crowd of young Dyaks drawn up on the banks to meet us, the elders having arranged to receive us
These young men wore waist-cloths of bright colours. The women and girls were dressed in short petticoats with rows of silver dollars and silver chains for waistbelts, and round their necks were rows of black, yellow, and red beads. These women do not know how to weave their petticoat stuffs, as do the Sea Dyak women, but buy them from wandering Chinese traders, or obtain them on their visits to the capital. Most of the young girls wore wire rings round the upper part of their arms and also round their legs. These rings all being, apparently, of the same size, impede the circulation and sometimes cause acute suffering, owing to the way the wire sinks into the growing limb. Four Dyaks carried me in a cane chair slung on poles nearly all the way, excepting where the path grew steep, or the way became difificult, when I preferred to trust to my own feet. I might have been a thing of feathers so at the entrance of their village.
easily did
my
four carriers skip along, although
my
SARAWAK AND
300
ITS
PEOPLE
The
weight was a respecta:ble one.
road led through
glades carpeted with various kinds of ferns, some
having a bright blue bloom on them as they greW in the shade.
We
passed three or four round houses
neatly thatched with pointed roofs, standing on high
ironwood posts round which were placed circular slabs of wood, very large in diameter, as a protection against the rats, these being the barns in which the
was
tribe
stored.
paddy of the
These granaries were surrounded
by groves of bread-fruit, lancat, durians, mangosteens, mangoes, and various other fruit trees. We crossed a stream by walking over large sandstone boulders scattered in
its
bed, round which the water rushed
and foamed.
met us at this spot. One of them was dressed in an old military coat, which had His belonged to the South Lancashire regiment. legs and thighs were bare, and a large piece of turkey twill was twisted round his waist and fell in folds front and back. He held a long slender twig from
The
elders
which floated a diminutive Sarawak well tended hair,
up
flag looking like
His black beard was
the petals of a drooping flower.
and he seemed very proud of
it.
His
long enough to reach below his waist, was tucked
in
a chignon under a
round his forehead
like
fillet
made of calico bound The other old men
a crown.
wore long flowing robes of brightly coloured red or blue chintz, patterned over with flowers and birds.
One
of
them wore a
not a Malay
;
large turban, although he
was
another wore a red-and-yellbw head-
SARAWAK AND
and two very
handkerchief,
men wore their
ITS
PEOPLE
old,
301
almost toothless,
jaunty smoking-caps stuck at the side of
These old men stood
bald heads.
behind the leader
in the military jacket,
in
a row
each holding
long thin sticks with a flag at the end, which they agitated gently
when we appeared.
my hand
took hold of
and led
The oldest chief me over a series
of notched poles and narrow trunks of trees, and
muddy
across a deep
The
ditch leading to
lay in a green
village
the side of a hiH.
Down
basin,
the
village.
scooped out of
a ravine on one side of
by daily rain, made a refreshing and gurgling sound day and night. Bamboo shoots led up the mountain-side to the uppermost houses on the hill, whence the people obtained water for household purposes, and where the village, a
little torrent,
they also bathed
When we we climbed up
many
fed
times a day.
arrived at the houses prepared for us, slippery poles with no rails to steady
our ascent and where the notches were extremely
These poles were some twenty
insignificant.
high, leading to verandahs of planks.
My
feet
residence
turned out to be the head-house of the village and the building of ceremony.
round room, sleep,
in
consisted of one large,
dress, eat, and was portioned off for our Another house prepare our food.
which
whilst one
Chinese cook to
It
I
had to bathe,
part
was prepared for the men of our party this house was called the " Bachelor House " because none but men were supposed to yse it. But to return to my ;
302
SARAWAK AND
quarters.
Seen from
PEOPLE
ITS
outside, the
house looked
large pigeon-cot, propped on high poles,
like
and lashed
Gemuti palm.^
together with the fibre of the
a
It
rocked and creaked at the slightest provocation like
a ship in a heavy
and
planks,
sea.
The
apertures
small
walls
were made of
served for
windows.
Screens of dried palm leaves were placed in different parts of the
room
;
one of these recesses was
room and another my bathroom, where a of water always stood ready for
screened off for
my
divan of thin planks
wooden to
valance.
make
my
use.
my
bed-
large tub
The
place
reception-room had a wooden all
Our
round
it,
finished off with a
hosts had spared no trouble
the place habitable, and had even stretched
gold brocade across the top of the room, thus forming
an improvised
ceiling, whilst the posts
were wreathed
round with smilax and the fronds of betel-nut palms. over my bed hung the trophies of the tribe. These were nothing more or less than a large bundle The Dyaks imagined that the of dried skulls. Just
1 This Borassus Gemuti palm plays a great part in the rural economy of the people in Sarawak. It flourishes in the high upland of the interior, and is very rough and wild-looking. It has a sap obtained from the petals of its flowers, used as sugar by the natives, and out of the liquid, which quickly ferments, is made ^an
intoxicating beverage. hair-like
Between the trunk and the fronds
is a horsecordage in shipping throughout the Tinder can be obtained from a fine cotton-like
substance, used
for
Malayan Archipelago. substance which the plant also yields. Its strong, stiff spines are made into pens, used by the people who write on paper ; and a great many of the primitive tribes of the interior/ make their arrows from these prickly I believe that the pith of the trunk furnishes a kind of sago. points. The seeds are enveloped by a poisonous juice to which the Dutch people give the name of "hell water,"
"
SARAWAK AND
ITS
PEOPLE
my
brocade had hidden these trophies from
am
gaze, but
I
aperture
some
sorry to say
I
of the skulls
303
through an
cotild see
which the
taken in their battles of long ago,
searching
tribe
when they
had
rose up
against the tyranny of the Brunei princes, or on the
occasion of the Chinese insurrection, which took place in the late
Rajah Brooke's
reign,
Chinese heads were captured.
I
when a good many noticed that one of
the round objects was larger than the
questions about ously, " that
"
it.
one
is
rest,
and
I
asked
Oh," said the chief contemptu-
only the head of a Chinaman, for
they always have larger heads than we people of the
country
At
!
the
commencement
of our stay one or two
hitches were experienced, but these were soon
little
Our Chinese cook gave himself airs, and informed Mr. Awdry that he could not possibly cook put
right.
decent
food in
such
a wilderness of
discomfort.
After a good deal of talk between our kind hosts and the cook, a small outhouse was rigged up for him
and all
his saucepans.
From the window the way down the
were
of
my
head-house
village.
I
built in blocks, placed here
propped up by poles of
could see
noticed the houses
and
The houses
some ten of the soil by
there,
or twelve in a row, in the inequalities
the side of the stream.
I
were, of course,
different heights,
and there
were platforms made of split bamboos lashed together by rattans running down the fronts of these houses, behind which were covered verandahs.
I
was
told that
SARAWAK AND
304
was a
there
above
PEOPLE
each house, with shelves
fireplace in
where water,
it,
durians, etc.,
ITS
salt
oil,
were stored.
A
fish,
potted
jars,
raised platform
was
invariably erected at the end of each room, used as a
place to
sit
on when receiving one's
friends, also as
a sleeping-place when strangers came to the
The women
village.
looked picturesque with their white shell
and silver girdles shining against the dark background of the houses. I noticed that most of them parted their hair, and that the children's
armlets, brass rings,
At
heads were not shaved. verandahs the
wooden
sunset in the
prepared food for
girls of the village
made of paddy husks mixed with water. brew was poured into smaller basins arid kept
their pigs,
A
special
fpr
little
pigs,
which the
girls
caught from under the
houses and threw here and there on to the verandahs.
The
girls
then pushed the
little
pigs' snouts into the
food, whilst with long poles they beat off the cocks
hens anxious to join
in the feast.
and
In the evening the
elders of the tribe rested under the shade of a
banyan
tree conversing with one another, whilst pigs grunted
under the houses, cocks and hens strutted about the roofs, and dogs ran in and out of doorways a tiny
—
speck of
human and animal
life
surrounded by gigantic
backgrounds of mysterious and unexplored forests
and mountains.
These Land Dyaks are very barring the time of
the night,
was
at
all
and,
my afternoon siestas or when I my room in the head-house
retired for filled
hospitable,
times of the day
with the
dlite
SARAWAK AND of
Dyak
the
PEOPLE
ITS
Whenever
tribe.
the
305
were
elders
wooden divan in front of me, I was anew with the unUkeness of these people to the-"fest of our Sarawak tribes. I could not help seated on the
struck
thinking they resembled the Cingalese, for they had the
same dreamy,
The
and effeminate
look.
was anxious that I house during my visit, so he gave a
should bless his feast, to
soft,
chief of the tribe, Mito,
which he invited
all
the inhabitants of
Munggo The
Babi, as well as those of a neighbouring village.
women came to fetch me from my me down the notched logs with movements were
Their
greatly
tightness of the wire rings
airy abode, helping
the greatest care. restricted
round their
legs,
by the which
prevented them from bending their knees comfortably.
As we
entered the house,
jaws hanging
in festoons
I
saw the bones of
pigs'
over the doors leading into
room as trophies of the chase. The long was decorated with yellow and red cloths, and
the inner gallery all
the people of the village were squatting in rows
down each
A seat covered with yellow cloth
side.
was
prepared for me, and the rest of our English party
were given raised me, on the
floor,
chairs to
sit
on.
Just in front of
were round brass dishes
filled
with
and two eggs were laid on the top Between the dishes, about twenty in number, were bamboos filled with cooked rice, tasting uncooked
rice,
of qach dish.
something
The
chief
like the
came
to
rice
me
puddings of our childhood.
with a small basin,
water, into which he asked 20
me
filled
with
to place one of
my
SARAWAK AND
3o6
gold rings, so that
water
;
which
basin, after
goodness might enter into the
its
he then gave I
PEOPLE
ITS
me a bead had
to
necklace to dip into the
go up and down the whole
length of the gallery, holding the necklace on high, say, "
and
I
wish this house cold and plenty.
that the
paddy may be
village
may have many
never enter it, and that prosperity."
when
to me,
A I
fruitful
its
wish
that the wives of this
;
sons
I
that sickness
;
people
may ^ive
in
may
peace and
basin of yellow rice was then handed
had
go through the same ceremony
to
and repeat the same
blessing.
The
contents of the
brass dishes were then emptied into baskets and given to me, together with a large
been
The
left in front
party
now began
of the bamboos, fruits
my
of
provided for
box of eggs, which had
seat during the proceedings.
We ate the rice out
in earnest.
partook of the us,
many
cakes and
and drank tumblers of cocoa-
nut milk.
Then came
the dances, the gongs and instruments
being hung in readiness against the wall. Themusicians,
arms over the top of the wooden frames, held the gongs, and drummed at them with their fingers Two women, with their arms completely with a will.
their
hidden under masses of brass rings and white shell
and touched the
armlets,
crept forward
fingers.
Then drooping
their
arms they began
to
their
tips of
my
heads and extending
move about
slowly.
They
put their feet close together and shuffled and slid from
one side of the room
gongs whilst the
little
to the other,
keeping time to the
bells tied to their ankles tinkled.
SARAWAK AND
We
were told that
was
this
The women were
dance.
ITS
PEOPLE
307
the
Hornbill's
called
very small, slim, and well-
made, with pretty expressive eyes, and rather thinner lips
than those of the other
women
of Sarawak,
but theirs were so stained with betel-nut juice that
dim light their mouths looked like large red wounds across their faces. After the women had danced, two men wound in and out of the people squatting on the floor, and
in the
Under
stood before us.
they wore a
circle
kerchiefs
making them Their long hair was twisted
of plaited rattans,
stand out like crinolines.
up Cingalese
the folds of their sarongs
fashion,
wound round
and stood out from the handtheir heads.
They commenced
the performance by flapping their arms and gliding
about without
lifting their feet
from the
floor.
They
then advanced and nearly touched one another, when they swiftly retreated, wheeled round one another, their
arms describing
circles in the air.
The
sarongs
over their crinolines billowed and swayed with their every movement, and the dance gave one the impression of sweeping lines
was supposed of great hawks through the
and of space.
to represent the flight
It
and I thought it beautiful. The dancers were handsome men, with sleek and gerjtle faces, and very arched eyebrows. All their movements were much
air,
more languid than those of the Sea Dyaks.
When people,
the dances were over
and
language.
I
we
sat talking to the
asked a chief what he thought of our
He
said that English people talking
was
SARAWAK AND
3o8
song of
like
the
was
like
birds,
PEOPLE
ITS
but the Chinese language
He then told us When people die,
hooting of antus.
the
of a superstition about bamboos.
he
goes into the bamboo and their
said, their flesh
souls enter the bodies of
unborn
children,
when they
are born again into the world. Tlje next morning
we were
all
ready to start on
our way back at 7.30, but the people carry our luggage
down
who were
to the landing-place
to
wanted
a good deal of rousing after their dissipation of the night
However, after severe reprimands chief and from the village authorities,
before.
from their
came to assist us with our luggage. An enormous crowd was required for the purpose, one man taking a saucepan, another two plates, a third they
two
which he luggage was
bottles of beer, a fourth a handbag,
carried
divided
Indian mile
with
both hands,
until
our
among one hundred people file,
long.
or
so,
walking
in
and forming a procession about half a A chair had been provided for me,
but as the road was slippery the night before)
I
(it
had been raining
preferred walking the whole
way
back to the landing-place. Before
were
reaching
awaiting
us,
the
one
where our
place of
the
chiefs,
canoes
who had
been an entertaining talker and had told us about the bamboo superstition, suddenly darted into the forest
with
on the edge of the path, whence he reappeared a branch of bamboo he had cut with his
parang.
He showed me
the
red sap within the
SARAWAK AND cane.
"
place of
there,"
some human
he said
309
" this is the burying-
;
being."
good-bye to the chiefs and all the carriers, which we got into the boat. I carried the bit said
I
after
of
See
PEOPLE
ITS
bamboo home, and
still
preserve
amongst
it
my
treasures from Sarawak.
We
Kuching
reached
twenty-four hours'
after
we embarked on the Rajah Brooke for England. It was a sad day for Bertram and I when we said good-bye to our Malay friends at Kuching. Datu Isa and all her family, accompanied by nearly all the Malay women of the town, came to the Astana to say good-bye. As I stood watching them from the deck of
journey, and two days after
the steamer, congregated as they were near our landingplace,
I felt
how many
a tightening at
my
heart,
years would elapse before
and wondered I
should see
them again, Bertram was really as much touched as I was at leaving them. The Rajah Brooke moved and slowly rounded the reach which hid the away, dear people from sight. Many years have gone by since that day, and yet I may say with truth that absence from
and
my
affection
people has only increased
for
realized of one
them, and should
day returning
to
Sarawak,
of finding there the very kindest best friends
I-
have
in the world.
my
my
love
hopes be I
am
sure
welcome from the
CHAPTER XXXII
BEFORE
closing these notes,
might be as
it
well to give an idea of the position
occupies with
regard
to
its
Sarawak
external
rela-
tions.
In 1888 a treaty placing
Sarawak under
British
protection, whilst the internal affairs of the country
immune from
remained
drawn up between the Rajah.
Some
received at
had the honour of being
I
Windsor by Queen
presented to
Her Majesty
The Queen received me
in
was
Government and the
British
years later
intervention,
British
Victoria,
and of being
^anee
of Sarawak.
as
one of the small apartments
Windsor Castle. At first, I naturally felt nervous, but when the Queen inquired kindly about our Sarawak people my feeling of shyness vanished, and at
I
could think of nothing but the Queen's gracious
words, and notice that beautiful smile of hers that
seemed
to illuminate every corner of the room.
Rajah was,
at the time, absent in
prevented
his
invitation
to
being included
interest in
in
Her
The this
Majesty's
However, knowing how
Windsor.
much the Rajah would
Sarawak, and
appreciate
Sarawak, which after 310
all
Her
Majesty's
was a compli-
SARAWAK AND ment
to himself,
country, where
311
telegraphed the news out to our
I
all
PEOPLE
ITS
concerned were much gratified at
such a token of the Queen's sympathy.
When King Edward came
to
the throne,
the
Sarawak and status of its ruler apparently interested him. His Majesty, aware of the manner Sarawak was governed, and after having made inquiries as to the prosperity and well-being of its inhabitants, decreed that the Rajahs of Sarawak affairs of
should be given precedence at the
English Court
immediately after that of the ruling Princes of India.
But even then
difficulties
of the Rajah's sons.
arose regarding the'position
Our
eldest son, although heir-
who
apparent, and our younger sons
are heirs-pre-
sumptive, were not allowed to be presented at Court
under their Sarawak ever, a
son's
little
of
title
brothers,
Rajah
who have
succession,
Our
titles.
while ago saw
Muda also
present King, how-
to confirm our eldest
fit
England, but his
in
a
certain
right
in
have not been allowed the same
lege at the English Court.
We
all
know
the
privi-
that in
hereditary properties the younger sons of the actual
possessor are recognized as having a legal interest in the possible
one
realizes that
State,
the
succession
we
question
of their father.
When
are dealing with an hereditary at
stake
becomes
a
doubly
important one.
We
have had recent and ample opportunities to
judge of the dangers which at
the
half-civilized nations
hands of exploiting commercialism.
run
That
SARAWAK AND
312
Sarawak should is
have escaped such dangers
hitherto
honour of the Borneo Company
infinitely to the
who have never sought
Ltd.,
PEOPLE
ITS
to enrich themselves
Sarawak people. Nor must we forget that immunity from companies of a less scrupulous character is due to the vigilance and to the detriment of
Rajahs of Sarawak, determined as
firmness of the
who
they were that the people
placed themselves
under their rule should have the benefit of European contact without any of
We
its
often terrible drawbacks.
must therefore hope that the future Rajah and regime which has so
his brothers will consolidate a
admirably safeguarded the natives under their two
White Rajahs. It is therefore consonant with the wisdom of the present Sovereign that he should first
have
sought
successor, occurs,
strengthen
to
whenever a
by arranging
tive Council
the
change
position
of
his
the
succession
for the assistance of
a Consulta-
who would
sit in
in
London, and consisting
of his two younger sons, of two highly distinguished officials in
the Sarawak service, and,
possible, of
if
an independent Englishman experienced
government and
in
in colonial
matters dealing with primitive
The Rajah is fully aware he may see fit to take for the
people and their interests. that whatever steps future
safety of his people, the
precautions are the
made known,
success of his
schemes.
mighty lever when used
to
or righteous cause, and
is
it
more
the better
publicly such it
will
be for
Public opinion
is
a
champion any honest with the help of public
— SARAWAK AND opinion that the Rajah
ITS
may
PEOPLE
313
gain the necessary help
in order to realize the fulfilment of his dearest wish
that being to keep
Sarawak
for the benefit of its
own
people, and, in so doing, from the devastating grasp
of money-grabbing syndicates.
—
INDEX Abang Aing, 115-6 Kasim,
162, 163 note
Argus pheasants, 200 Astana,
8,
10
Awdrey, Mr., 289, 295
Nipa, 140 wife of, 143 Aline, H.H.S., 179, 188, 197 Alligator bird (Bul-bul), 241, 288
Bakar, Inchi, 164-5
Animal
Bald-Headed Hawk,
Bailey, Sir., 260, 262, 264, 266, 284-5
cockroaches, 3
224, 231 cane, 308 Bampfylde, Mr. C. A., xxv, 185, 209, 211, 215-8, 221, 229-31, 238, 240, 243, 245, 253, 262 Banting, 56, 60 Baram River, 15, 136, 139 Batang Lupar River, 15, §4-5, 106, III, 119, 123, 258, 262
crocodiles, 6, 82-6
Batu Gading, 139-40
dogs, 288
Kudi, 190 Bauhinea, 198 note Beads, 258 Bears, honey, 299 Bees, swarm of, 298 Beeswax, 255, 298 Belaga, 216, 243 Betel-nut, 32 Bezoar, 255-6 Bintulu River, 15, 136 women, 146 Birds. See under Animal Blessing house, 305 Blow-pipe, 53, 25s Blunderbuss, 114
life
alligator bird, 241, 288
bears, honey, 299 bees, honey, 299 buffaloes, 88-9 bul-bul. See Alligator bird centipedes, 81 chik-chak. See Lizards ^
egrets, 118, 120 fire-flies,
130,207
lizards, 8i
mice, 274
monkeys,
6, 17, 87-8 mosquitoes, 71, 74, 76, 80, 82, 117 owl, little, 253 paddy birds. See Egrets peahen, 167-8 pheasantrs, Argus, 200 ponies, wild, 64-5 porcupines, 256 rats, 3, 71, 77-9, 80, 1 1 7-8 rhinoceros, 256, 261 roebuck (Kijang), 254 and note sand-flies, 109 scorpions, 81-2
sea-serpent, 209-12
shrimps, 74 snakes, 82
Bamboo burying
life
Bodyguard, Rajah's, 103 Bore, the, 119-20 Borneo, xvii, 16 Borneo Co. Ltd., 289, 312
8,
137, 139, 287,
Consul appointed to Sarawak, 97 Crown, 97 Government, assistance by, 95 ; scant recognition by, 99 public, 96
British
Antimony, 287, 289 Apai Minggat, 39-41 Apai Nipa, 140-1 wife of, 143 Archipelago, Malayan, 97 3'5
—
——
.
SARAWAK AND
3i6 British
North Borneo
Brocades, 29 Brooke, Bertram
Co., xvii
(Tuan
Muda),
156-7, 184, 188-9, 201, 209, 215-6, 223, 238, 265, 309
Charles Johnson, Sir, xi, xxiii, I, 9-1 1, 19, 34.37-8,41,43, 49-51,54,57-8,65-8,70,78, 84, 88-93, 97-9, 103, 106-7, 113-6, 128-9, 133, 135-7, 140-5, 173, 179, 182, 310,
312-3
Harry (Tuan Bungsu), 184 James, Sir, x-xi, xiii, xvii-xxiii, 95,97,101,170,215 Vyner (Rajah Muda), 99, 135, 283-6, 311 Brunei, xvii Sultan of, xviii^xix, 136, 140, 145, 170 Buffaloes, 88-9 Bukitans, 53, 242,-274
Bul-bul (Alligatoi)4)ird), 241, 288 Busu, 288
Camphor,
243, 255
Canals, 16
Cape Datu, 136 Capital punishment, 103 Casuarina trees, 4, 192 Cataracts, 217, 221, 243, 245 Chambers, Bishop, 56 Characteristics cleanliness, 18 dignity, 66 frendliness, 61, 90, 165 garrulity, 282
humour, 282 lending, love of, 21 note oratory, love of, 113 politeness, 188 reserve, 183 swimming, love of, 18 tact, 234 Chik-chak (lizards), 81
Chinese, 15-6, 43, 62, 65, 103, 164-
5,255 chemist, 256-7 coffin, 257 cook, 51, 301, 303 gardens, 290-1, houses, 288 junks, 63
PEOPLE
ITS
Chinese plays, 164-5 secret societies, 107 superstitions, 177, 180
temples, 63 Cholera, 177-83, 284-6
Churches Protestant, 63 Roman Catholic, 63
Clerodendrons, 46 Cobra, the, 224, 231, 239 Cockroaches, 3 " Cocoa de mer," 174 Consul, English, appointment -of, to Sarawak, 97 Council of war, 1 1 3 Court of Justice, 66-7 Crespigny, Mr. Claude Champion de, 137, 139-41, 143-5, 147 Crocodiles, 6, 82-6 legend concerning, 292-3 Crookshank, Mrs., 92
Crops, 44-5
Customs head-hunting, 34, 38, 46, 55, 68, 102, 155 Milanoe, 138 polygamy, 102 Sir James Brooke's respect for, xxiii, xxiv
40 wounds, treatment war-yell, 39,
of,
48
Daiang Kho, 183 Kota, 116 Sahada, 29, 156, 162, 165 Dalima, 117-8, 120 Dancing, at Kapit, 224-8, 231-4 Lundu, 203-6 Munggo Babi, 306-7 Dyak, 69 Kayan, 148 Datu Bandar, xx-xxi, 10, 20, 24, 87 Bay, 13 Cape, 136
Hakim,
xxi
ImEtum,
xxi, 20, i6i-2 Isa, xxi, 23-5, 27-32,
87, 91-2, 135,' 158-9, 162, 165, 170-3, 180-1, 309
101,
no,
Mohammed,
xxi,
Patinggi Ah, xx Siti, 23
182-3
—
— INDEX
Datu Tumanggong, xxi, 20 Death sentence, 103 Deshon, Mr. Harry, 262, 284-5 Dictionary, Marsden's, 23, 25 Doctor, English, 72, 83, 91, 178 Dogs, Chinese, 288 Douglas, Mr Bloomfield, 198-9, 201, 206-8 Dragons, legend of, 175
Dress, 23,26-30, 147,202,205, 223,
299 Dyaks, vii, 16, 34, 65,68, 103, 115,154 Land, 15,297, 299, 304 Sea, 15, 39, 46,48, S3>ii3. 138, 318, 220-1, 223, 231
boy
wrestlers, 206
chiefs, 9, 198
crew, 57 customs, 273 dances, 204-6, 231-4, 306-7 dogs, 288 feast,
Hadji Ahmad, 185, 190-1 Haji Matahim, 209-11 Hajis, 65
Hamadryads, 82 Hands, ceremony of touching, 223
58,
56,
54, 60, 84, 93,
Malay crew,
3,
9,
5
Hindoos, 62, 189 Honey bears, 299 Hose, Dr. Charles, xxv, 241, 258, 274-5 Hose, Mrs., 263
Hovering
42-3,
139
Hawk,
220,
145-6,
239-40,
201, 265-6,
60,
Ima,
war boat, 56, women, 199,
115, 238
205, 223, 264, 266,
20, 161-2
Inchi Bakar, 164-5 Inchi Sawal, 159-64 Indiarubber, 255 Industries
basket-making, 237
299. 304, 306
coal-mining, 88 embroidery, 31-3, 186 farming, 45, 53 note
Edward, H.M. King, 311 Egrets, 118, 120 Execution, mode
of,
Exports (Rejang
river),
104, 106
255-6
Babi, 305
207 Fishing shed, 185 Flags Rajah's, 97 Sarawak, 85 Flowers, native, 17,
fishing, 48,
74
furniture-making, 45 weaving, 29, 54, 59
See under Animal life Insects. Ireland, Mr. AUeyne, xii, xiv Isle of birds, 259
224, 245
Munggo
73, 75, no, 117-8, 120, 132-3, 182, 238, 267
Imaum, Datu,
village, 57
Face of Day,
H.H.S.,
Heartsease,
243
303-4 humour, 282 language, 113 titles, 224
Feast,
God of Sickness, 265 Gould, Baring, xxv Grass, lalang, 46, 139 Grave, Muhammadan, 163-4, 259, 297 Gutta-percha, 243, 255
305-6
house,
317
Fire-flies, 130,
Jambusan, 290 Jarum, Rajah (founder of Sarawak), XX 43,
46, 166,
199-200, 243-4, 288 Fruits, native, 22, 47-8, 105, 203, 287, 291, 300
Gading, 295 Garlic, 212 Gemuti palm, 302 and note George, H.M. King, 31 1-2
Jury, 103
Kalaka
river, 15,
54
Kanowit, schools at, 213 Kanowits, 48, 213 Kapit, 214, 216-8, 221, 238 Kayans, 15, 53, 123-8, 136, 139-47,, 154, 215, 217, 222, 224 dances, 224, 331-4
—
5
SARAWAK AND
318
Kayans, dancing-man, 148-9 Queen, 145 Keluri, 231
Kemp,
Mrs., 92 Kenyars, 53 Keppel, Sir Henry, xxii Kijang (roebuck), 254 and note Kirkpatrick, Mr., 260-6
Knotted string, 112 Kong Kong, 152 Koran, the, 161-2, 297
vii-ix, 15, 65,
103
chiefs, 66, 90 houses, 289, 295
language, 158-62
women,
11, 20, 26-7, 31, 93, loi, 125, 157, 289 Mangroves, 6, 14, 130, 139, 188 Marsden's Dictionary, 23, 25 Matang, mountain of, 11-2, 151,
154, 166
Kromang gong, 203 8,
PEOPLE
Malayan Archipelago, 97 Malays,
Matu
Kris, 103-4
Kuching,
ITS
62-4, 157, 215
Labuan, Island of, 136 Lalang grass, 46, 139 Lang Endang, 261 Langmore, Dr., 185, 188, 301, 215, 238, 253, 256, 295 Lawas River, 136
river, 15
Maxwell, Sir Benson, 2, 260 Mr. Frank, 109, in, 113-6, 129, 260-2, 295 M'^Dougall. See Hose, Dr. Charles Mecca, 5, 27 Mice, 274 Milanoes, 15, 137-8, (Bintulu) 147 Military service,exemption from, 112
"Mingo." 5eeRosario,F. Domingo de
Legends, 269 Cat story, 272-4 Crocodile story, 292-3 Daughter of the Moon, 193-6 Daughter of the Sun, 376-9 Dragons and cocoa-nuts, 175 Flood, 247-50 Gift of Petara, 279-81 '
Half-Petrified Girl, 269-72
Pig Lady, 250-3 Pontianak Ghost, 170-1 Ungrateful Son, 275-6 Lilies
Crinum Northianum, 295 Paddy lily, 281 Limbang river, 136 Lingga, 55, 60, 11 1, 129 mountain, 276 Lintong, 35-8 Lizards (chik-chak), 81
Lobok Antu
Fort, 129 Lotus flowers, 291
Low, Mr., 36, 50, 54 steam launch, 212 Lundu, 197-8
Lucille,
dances, 203-6 River, 15
Missions, Protestant, 56, 215 Roman Catholic, 213 schools, 163, 313
Monkeys,
6,
(wah-wahs)
17,
Monsoon, South-west, 13 North-east, 84 Mosquitoes, 71, 74, 76, 80, 82, 117 Mountain of the Moon, 256 Mountains. See under respective titles, viz., Lingga, Matang, Mountain of the Moon, Poe, Santubong, Sebigi, Singghi Muda Hassim, Rajah, 170
Muhammadans, graves
Muka,
of,
fort,
15,
90
163, 164, 259, 297
137-8
Muka river, 1 Munggo Babi,
295, 299 bachelor house, 301 chief of, 305 dances at, 306 granaries at, 300 head -house, 301-3
Ngmah,
49,
216
Nipa palms, MacDougall, Bishop, 100
6, 14, 139, 188, 197 North, Miss Marianne, 150-5
Madu, 202 Magistrates, 185, 287 Malaria, 4, 71-5, 78, loi
87-8,
255
Octopuses, 187 Officers, Rajah's English, 108
—
5
INDEX Opium, 257 Orang Kaya
Stia,
River plants, 296 Rivers. See under respective titles, viz., Baram, Batang Lupar, Lawas, Bintulu, Kalaka, Matu, Limbang, Lundu, Muka, Oya, Rejang, Sadong, Samarahani, Sarawak, Saribas Roads, scarcity of, 16, 65
Rajah, 198
Ord, Sir Harry, 2 Owl, little, 253
Oya
river, 15
Pa Baniak, 291-4 Paddy, 279, 281
Paddy
birds (Egrets), 118, 120
Rosario, F. Domingo de, 215-6, 224-5, 228-9, 231, 236 Russell, Lord John, 97
Paku, 287-8 Palmerston, Lord, 97 "Pamale," 140 Panau, 282-3 Pangiran Matali, 1 1 5-6
Pau Jinggeh,
Sadong
of,
on
;
palms,
river,
133
Sand-flies, 109
Santubong, mountain, 4, 42, 167, 197 ; legend of, 193-6 ; stone figure, 188 Sapphires, 241
Poe Mountain, 197 Police, 107-8 Pontianak ghost, 170-1
;
village, 185
Sarawak apathy concerning, 108 British protection extended 310 extent of, 136
Porcupines, 256 Punans, 53, 214 Quicksilver, 287, 289
to,
flag of, 85
Rainbow, superstition concerning, 172
Rajah Brooke, S.S., 309 Rajah Muda (Vyner). See under Brooke, Vyner Rajah's Council, 67, 91, 185 Rajahs, The White, 95-100, 312 Rapids, shooting, 244-5 Rats, 3, 71, 77-9, 80, 117-8 Rattans, 54, 214, 243 Rawieng, 217, 229-31 Reciters, 157-8 Rejang, river, 15, 35, 37, 42, 44,
Rengas, 45 Rentap, 55 Rhinoceros, 256, 261 Rice, 92
;
253-4
Samaraham
natives, 69
184,
295
Salleh, 218-9, 221, 234, 238, 244-7,
Pigafetta, xvii Pitcher plants, 151-3 Pleiades, 281
51-4, 136, 216-7, 243
river, 15, 133, 136,
SafHower, 276-8 Saffron, 92 Sago, IS, 137 factory, 137 44, 152 Salaries, official, 108
175
Peahen, 167-8 Pelagus Rapid, 221, 243 Peniamuns, 122 Penus, 234-7 Pepper vines, 2CX3, 287 Pheasants, Argus, 200 Piano, effect
319
192,
209,
founder of, xx heat of, no police, 107 Rangers, 105, 112 recognition
of,
situation of,
I,
tribes,
13
16
Sarawak, bay
Sarawak
by England, 97
of, 1
8, 109-10, 15, 133 Saribas river, 15, 54 Schools, institution of, 163-4 Scorpions, 81-2
Screw
river,
pines, 296
Sea-serpent, 209-12 Seaweed bangle, 173 Sebigi, mountain, 290 Sensitive plant, 152 Sentries, 103, 168 Seripa Madjena, 30-2, 65
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